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Mini-Woodies (Read 4386 times)

danielb

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Mini-Woodies
May 26, 2003, 03:58:26 pm
Also know as foot off boards,



I have a fingerboard from holdz and have just moved house to my first house. After having a good look round it I only have like a 70xm x 45cm area where I can make a small woodie. So what I am thinking is making some form of foot off board to improve my strenth (which is non-existant atm). I'm currently thinking of mounting the finger board with a small overhang above it and some more holdz on it for doing some small problems.

What ya think? Should I use the board or would I be better not using the finger board and just use holds instead?

Bubba

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#1 Mini-Woodies
May 27, 2003, 10:14:40 am
Can't see a problem with having both - variety is good and it give you more training options.

danielb

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#2 Mini-Woodies
May 27, 2003, 10:31:27 am
I was thinking that if I mount allot of t-nuts behind the fingerboard anyway and mount the finger board itself with t-nuts that way I can easily remove it to make all hold problems if I want to.

Anyway I'll post some pics once I finally get it constructed and will let you know how I get on using it.

dmitri

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#3 fingerboards
May 27, 2003, 07:23:23 pm
I started using one bout September & combined it with bouldering really began to build up finger strength. Check out the metolious website for a funky 10min sequence.
www.metoliusclimbing.com

But then i dislocated my finger on it bout december & had to give up, then started agen & got a back injury (but not from the board!!!).

Also try "reverse pulls" very horrible!!! U need a weight fastned 2 ya, pull up & lock off. The weight needs to be just gr8 enuff so u cant hold the lock off that well, & u need to fight gravity!! Mite be bad for ya, but does hav amusement value :bat:

mozzer

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#4 Mini-Woodies
May 27, 2003, 08:20:58 pm
Make sure you get bolt on holds that dont fuck your fingers.

I reckon Bendcrete holds are pretty bad for this, all the small ones only go to first joint and are very crimpy with big incuts.

Better for your fingers, and for your climbing (how many tiny incuts are there on rock?) are ones that are flat.

dmitri

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#5 Mini-Woodies
May 29, 2003, 02:47:48 pm
Alternatively u could make your holds out of wood. I find that some sort of hard wood works well. Fair few mates pine holds split when screwing them on to the board. Theres stacks of sites sayin how to do it, so i wont bore you with details. :)

andC

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#6 Mini-Woodies
June 25, 2003, 06:22:04 pm
just do pull ups on the door frame ledge :wink:

 

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