UKBouldering.com

Keen Roof - 8B (Read 58041 times)

Johnny Brown

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 11436
  • Karma: +690/-22
#75 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 16, 2006, 09:11:17 pm
Quote
pps,
Quote
As for Tyler's comment on the pocket, i really cannot see how this pocket can be of a dangerous nature for a climber of his caliber- the hold is positive, not sharp and fairly deep allowing at least 2 fingers to be used.  I believe there really is nothing to worry about when attempting this problem.


This is not a dig whatsoever. Just merely stating that as a hard problem, this contains good positive holds that would be unlikely to injure a world class climber, especially in comparison to alot of other problems in this grade range

If it's not muthafukkin obvious to y'all, its worth stating that Tyler is 15 and still growing. It doesn't need another 'world class' climber to work out that its probably a good idea for him to look after them, especially as he doesn't appear to be about to give up climbing and take up boxing.

Aussiegav

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 670
  • Karma: +27/-10
    • Climberbiker.
#76 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 19, 2006, 12:48:14 am
you all sound like a bunch of ladies disputing over the best tea cakes. :kiss2:
if you don't like the grade reclimb it and regrade it. if you think it should start further back do it and rename it and grade it. ohhh so simple ;D

chappers

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1218
  • Karma: +26/-1
#77 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 19, 2006, 09:29:04 am
we all know that the best tea cakes are in the grindleford station cafe.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29191
  • Karma: +628/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#78 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 19, 2006, 09:55:40 am
Betty's Tearoom in Harrogate. Legendary.

Paul B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 9623
  • Karma: +264/-4
#79 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 19, 2006, 12:27:04 pm
you've got to be joking, betty's tea room? if you want to pay way too much money for some stale scones probably. Touristy hotspot and all hype.

SA Chris

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 29191
  • Karma: +628/-11
    • http://groups.msn.com/ChrisClix
#80 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 19, 2006, 12:35:45 pm
Aye was joking. Never set foot inside the place, it was the only one I could think of to argue for  :whistle:

fashionguru

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 100
  • Karma: +0/-1
#81 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 19, 2006, 01:47:10 pm
Just like to take this opertunity to say why all this agro.

We all are different, have differnt views, opinions, grade veiws etc.

What really matters here is that someone has climbed a fantastic line, a line which had been done from standing now has a logical SS.

I hoped by now all would have learnt that you can not put context into these forums and some of us do take them to heart. But please we all do this sport(used lightly) because we love it not for the money and glory (although money does help) so why not get on together and learn from what has happened now and previously.

If your reading this James hope all is going well in the states mate. See ya when you get back

Fingers of a Martyr

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1261
  • Karma: +3/-1
#82 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 14, 2006, 11:07:34 pm
i'm well out of the loop, but just out of interest why has buoux stopped climbing?

unclesomebody

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1-5-NEIN!
  • Posts: 1693
  • Karma: +148/-9
  • more business, less party.
#83 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 15, 2006, 08:26:03 pm
Last i heard he has gone to some poor 3rd world country and started building straw huts with his immense strength.

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#84 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 16, 2006, 10:43:22 am
I saw a video about this last night, he has gone to dubai to hold up a 320 storey apartment block as they can't get foundation piles strong enough.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#85 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 16, 2006, 11:49:37 am
so how many 8b's has James nearly flashed out there?  :jaw:

irish si

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 186
  • Karma: +7/-0
#86 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 16, 2006, 05:13:55 pm
he nearly flashed one, which we both suggested 8a+ for, very long thing.  did it a day or so later.  He also did an other one called clear blue sky in a couple of sessions.  He did an 8a+ called no more greener grasses.  Hopefully he has done something else in the last three days since i left him to go to joes for a few days.  Bit rainy but have done a few classics like resident evil and freak, nothing to exciting.

he got close on freaks on his first session in amazing conditions but failed to get back here in a few more sessions.  he will do if it cools down.  Both had five sessions on freshly squeezed but as yet no success, seems hard. maybe that one is 8b????? he also got close on this thing in eldo called suspensions of disbelief stand up 8a+ but the top was a bit damp.

see ya hueco. 

irish si

Offline
  • **
  • menacing presence
  • Posts: 186
  • Karma: +7/-0
#87 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 16, 2006, 05:42:22 pm
I might add, that he should have probably done more if conditions had not been so harsh ( and he learned to finish things a bit quicker after he gets close to them)

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#88 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 16, 2006, 08:23:21 pm
i heard he nearly flashed Secret Splendour n all. Maybe he should enrol in a Neil Gresham topouts Masterclass when he gets home.

see ya hueco. 

sure will big boy

james

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 458
  • Karma: +33/-0
#89 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 05:36:06 am
I did flash secret splendor  :thumbsup: , it was nottin but sunshine that I nearly flashed, but sadly, nearly just does not cut it.
One day left, hope to go and try the most amazing undone line I have seen.  Bring on the la t day psych!!!

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#90 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 02:28:24 pm
ahh, effort yoot. Beers all round  :beer2:

unclesomebody

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • 1-5-NEIN!
  • Posts: 1693
  • Karma: +148/-9
  • more business, less party.
#91 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 02:32:25 pm
ahh, effort yoot. Beers all round  :beer2:

beers? you mean vimto...

good effort james. Have you forgotten about the rumont roof project or does that pale in comparison? Best of luck mate.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#92 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 02:49:30 pm
beers? you mean vimto...

yeah probably very watered down vimto n all

monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1194
  • Karma: +65/-0
#93 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 06:31:22 pm
Aye big thumbs up man  :thumbsup: and good luck with last day!

Wish this rain would piss off from over England!Haha

james

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 458
  • Karma: +33/-0
#94 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 07:05:36 pm
wha'd'y'know, its snowing to fuck in boulder and I dont have a lift to the crag :wall: , typical.  Guess the proj will have to wait, what a shame :'(
bring on the grit...

dom

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 126
  • Karma: +1/-1
#95 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 08:25:01 pm
I did flash secret splendor  :thumbsup:

fuckin hell V13 flash  :jaw:

has that been done before?

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#96 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 08:41:57 pm

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1970
  • Karma: +120/-0
#97 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 09:39:20 pm
I did flash secret splendor  :thumbsup:

fuckin hell V13 flash  :jaw:

has that been done before?

Tremendous effort! Was that the 2nd ascent too?

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4942
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#98 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 09:58:11 pm
I did flash secret splendor  :thumbsup:

fuckin hell V13 flash  :jaw:

has that been done before?

Tremendous effort! Was that the 2nd ascent too?

Daniel Woods did 2nd ascent, Paul Robinson 3rd, so maybe 4th?

Sloper

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • fat and weak but with good footwork.
  • Posts: 5199
  • Karma: +130/-78
#99 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
October 17, 2006, 10:05:18 pm
Don't forget to check out Ute pass, there's some things straight through the rainy day traverese that may be up you street

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal