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Keen Roof - 8B (Read 44686 times)

r-man

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Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 04:05:13 pm
Watched Keenus do his project at the Tor today. Awesome effort, well done that man.

 :thumbsup:

Here's a video (you need to right click and save target):



He says he's calling it Keen Roof;D

cofe

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#1 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 04:06:34 pm
well done james. good job you didn't have that extra bit of naan bread...

andy_e

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#2 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 04:10:00 pm
Effort yoot. Is that right of Ben's Roof? (Tor newbie  :-[)

james

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#3 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 05:27:17 pm
Starts sitting in the left hand corner of the cave (feet not on crumbly slab but you know that allready ;)) and goes out through the roof a few meters right of bens to finish in the evolution break.  Am happy to have finally done it, fell far too many times on easy finishing ground :wall:.

monkey boy

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#4 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 06:09:02 pm
It was inspiring to watch an awesome effort man! :great:

Bubba

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#5 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 08:11:33 pm
Fine stuff James - I like the choice of name :lol:

Video on the web same day? Nice one r-man.



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#6 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 10:31:17 pm
Well done that man!  :beer2:

Jim

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#7 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 05, 2006, 10:51:17 pm
bon fucking effort word.
bout time an'all

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 06, 2006, 09:31:15 am
 Brilliant effort! You've got to be pleased with bagging just about the best unclimbed proj on peak limestone and it's hard and it's at the mighty tor and it's a proper line and not a stamina linkup! Just in the nick of time, what with the seepage and your trip away in a weeks time.

Johnny Brown

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#9 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 06, 2006, 09:46:02 am
All he's got to do now is do summat on grit harder than the ace, and he can usurp Jerry as 'King of the Peak'. It would bring a tear to my eye to see the crown go back to a local.

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#10 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 12:05:36 pm
Nice effort James.... :beer2:

Nibile

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#11 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 01:48:49 pm
congrats mate!!!
 :beer2:

r-man

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#12 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 02:54:12 pm
Just wondering, does this line have any history? Has it been tried/talked about by any of the previous Tor kings? Mighty though 8B is, it's a grade that a fair few Tor denizens have been capable of over the years... And its such an obvious line as well. Was it just too hard?

Adam Lincoln

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#13 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 03:00:01 pm
I predict a second ascent this weekend........

Johnny Brown

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#14 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 03:35:31 pm
Quote
it's a grade that a fair few Tor denizens have been capable of over the years... And its such an obvious line as well. Was it just too hard?

I dare say it fell foul of the yorkshire mentality - ie you know extremely good climbers have tried the line, so there's no point you trying it. Or even if it seems doable, they gave up so it must either be shit or too easy to bother with (or the true yorkshire put-down - if you have managed it, then it will have been done by 'the bingley lads' in the mid-eighties, who weren't so arrogant as you are to think summmat so easy worth was recording, eh lad, nah piss off 'ome). Hence stuff never gets done.

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#15 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 03:39:53 pm
I dare say it fell foul of the yorkshire mentality

Quit living in the 90's it's all happiness and light up here now.

Nice one James, looks like a great problem.

Bonjoy

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#16 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 03:54:52 pm
 I'll ask the Harris this weekend he's bound to know. I seem to recall that Moony has tried it. The roof holds have been chalked for as long as I can remember.

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#17 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 08, 2006, 05:45:45 pm
Effort Darse, effort!

Doylo

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#18 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 10, 2006, 11:00:26 pm
Tyler and Ryan were trying this on sat, neither were close to linking it.

a dense loner

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#19 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 11, 2006, 11:11:10 am
i should bloody hope not in a session, it's a big grade.

Johnny Brown

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#20 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 11, 2006, 12:52:39 pm
Tyler reckoned the pocket was extremely likely to injure tendons. So much so he spent Sunday at The School instead. It does piss me off these non-members clogging the place up.

cofe

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#21 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 11, 2006, 01:07:28 pm
is this the hardest independent problem on peak limestone?

Bonjoy

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#22 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 11, 2006, 01:14:08 pm
It's good to hear that 8b climbers make lame excuses when they struggle on things too ;)

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#23 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 11, 2006, 01:39:23 pm
Fantastic effort and about time this was climbed. It is a very cool line that although being totally independant, was rarely attempted-possibly due to constant seepage of the pocket.

Im a bit surprised that james didnt start as per Bens roof, as for me this was the obvious challenge. The line was climbed previously two moves further into the problem from the obvious good hold at approximately 8a+, but was never completed as per the start of Bens Roof. I suppose james start is more ideal than starting at the good hold, but could be improved upon by someone with the sufficent talent.

As for tylers comment on the pocket, i really cannot see how this pocket can be of a dangerous nature for a climber of his calibre- the hold is positive, not sharp and fairly deep allowing at least 2 fingers to be used.  I believe there really is nothing to worry about when attempting this problem.

For an extra grade, and one of the most amazing moves around, try the two hard moves without the use of foothooks. Truly fantastic.

Another line cleaned up- just the dogs dinner traverse now. Go for it.

james

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#24 Re: Keen Roof - 8B
September 11, 2006, 02:37:12 pm
Firstly, thanks for the congrats but I have to dissagree with you on one point. 
I didnt climb the problem from the start of bens because I thought it would detract from what is otherwise a good problem.
Keen roof starts sitting in the left corner of the cave, on 2 jugs, and takes a pretty much straight line.  It is non eliminate, all the holds are nice, good moves etc.  To start as bens roof, you would firstly, have to know where the legit start to bens roof is as the holds are not at all obvious :shrug: (out of intrest, what are the official starting holds, I have never really known).  You would then nedd to do the first few moves (keeping your arse off the floor) to get to my start, then turn nearly 180 degrees :thumbsdown: and go out throught the roof.

The option to link bens into keen roof is there.  Just like the option to link all the other problems together.  Although if you are going to start bens, maybe you should go the full monty and start as for the bens extension?

Keen roof, in my opinion, takes the most obvious line through the roof from a sit start to a juggy break.  But at the end of the day, its only limestone.


 

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