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caught out by the weather?? (Read 2984 times)

Aussiegav

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caught out by the weather??
August 24, 2006, 09:17:40 pm
it was suposed to rain all today,thurs 24th.. i went to foundry yesterday thinking that today would be wet. what a gorgeous day. any one get out??

dave

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#1 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 24, 2006, 09:48:18 pm
have you not got eyes in your head?  ;) its been solid blue sky all day. You must have got to the foundry pretty early if it was obviously still dark..... ::)

just got back from the plantation. was windy and warm but not too bad. just pottered around, realised i've lost all of the progress i'd made on brad pit the other year, and finished off with a nice arete solo Argus E2, its good if anyones in the area. left of fern end crack.
« Last Edit: August 24, 2006, 09:57:47 pm by dave »

Aussiegav

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#2 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 24, 2006, 10:15:10 pm
i have eyes, but yours must be faulty. i went to the foundry YESTERDAY.....


dave

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#3 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 24, 2006, 10:27:05 pm
shit, do I look quite the fool now.  :-[ sozard.

saintlade

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#4 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 24, 2006, 10:55:49 pm
Just made it back now. Woke up this morning with a free day and clear blue skies. Couldn't believe my luck! Shot over to Nesscliffe and ticked a bunch of nice stuff in the alley before pulling off a sizeable piece of crumble whilst soloing on the sunset buttress. Been drinking since to try an calm the jitters.

Fiend

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#5 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 24, 2006, 11:19:53 pm
Went to the Edge yesterday, was good fun, but left a bit of gas in the tank, just in case like.

Got to Smalldale this evening with Falling Down, was good fun, nice technical wall climbing and great weather for it. Word yo.

P.S. I've done Argus. Think I had a belay on it to stop falling down to the base of Silk...

fatneck

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#6 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 24, 2006, 11:34:48 pm
Finally did Closer at Woodwell today, well pleased.



(woz)

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#7 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 08:57:20 am
realised i've lost all of the progress i'd made on brad pit the other year,

I wouldn't worry if you didn't get too far with how hot it was yesterday! I spent the afternoon baking on kudos wall and then the evening building my new woody out in the garden 8)

off-topic edit: anyone got any tips for screwing on thousands of holds without getting blistered hands?

Bonjoy

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#8 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 09:10:20 am
 Spent yesterday driving round the Peak reccying some bridges I need to price work on. Pretty good day as work goes.

Quote
off-topic edit: anyone got any tips for screwing on thousands of holds without getting blistered hands?
Battery drill with allen key or screw driver head

Falling Down

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#9 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 09:20:48 am
it was suposed to rain all today,thurs 24th.. i went to foundry yesterday thinking that today would be wet. what a gorgeous day. any one get out??

I met up with Fiend at Smalldale yesterday evening and did some of the decent routes.  Clipped the belay of the last one just as the sun dipped below Coombs Moss - a very pleasant evening. 

Carnage

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#10 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 09:21:19 am
Battery drill with allen key or screw driver head

And be careful not to get any cross threads or you'll wreck your T-Nuts and have a nightmare getting the holds off. The gits have banned using the drill for setting because this was happening alot at my local wall. Arse.

(woz)

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#11 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 09:51:23 am
Its the screw ons (as opposed to bolts) that are causing the trouble. My electric screwdriver just isnt beefy enough to handle it and my right hand is covered in blisters (gonna have trouble explaining that to the lady)

Greg C

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#12 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 10:47:17 am
Finally did Closer at Woodwell today, well pleased.




No you didn't, that hold in you right hand is "considered out of bounds"  ;)

Beta: Match flake, out to undercut (match this), crimp/edge, jug, lip. :P

Fiend

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#13 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 11:02:31 am
Woodwell strikes again   ???

Is allowed his feet on the back wall ?!

dave

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#14 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 05:49:53 pm
for my woody used a battery drill with a screwdriver bit for the screw-on holds - you can also use a ratchet screwdriver if its just a few or the battery has gone.

for bolt-ons use said drill with an allen key bit. if you can't readily find one the best thing is buy a cheap regular L shaped allen key and hacksaw the bent bit off leaving a straight hexagonal bar. keep a normal allen key for final tightening. I've never had a problem crossthreading, if you start them by hand it should be fine.

fatneck

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#15 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 05:54:27 pm
Quote from: The Crag Police ;)
No you didn't


Twat. At least most of the Liverpool crew haven't done it as well...

Richie Crouch

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#16 Re: caught out by the weather??
August 25, 2006, 09:50:13 pm
I've done it going from flake --> Right hand to undercut --> left straight through to pinch --> adjust feet --> Left again to Crimp --> Slap right all the way over from undercut to jug --> top.

Also done it using the sequence in the picture which felt slightly easier maybe v5ish  :shrug:

 

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