[james]

What are the best classic technical problems on eastern grit between V0 and V4?  Problems that dont require much buch, just nice footwork, good body position and a little faith in the f-word.

A few for starters;

Crescent arete V3?
Poc things at burbage south?
little slab at far burb north?

[(woz)]

Joe's slab at froggatt - V1?
Technical Master - V4
Groove on Eaglestone - V4
Obviously lots at Roaches and Cratcliffe but unfortunatly not eastern

[Aussiegav]

think tank at wimberry. the poor man's not to be taken away...

heart arete at eagle tor..

the arete at burbage west. both left and right sides.

the traverse opposite green traverse at stanage. left to right with up move at the end.
know the one i mean??

Go West the arete/groove at burbage west left of the nose

all quiet on the eastern front. burbage north

cleo's edge burbage north, under voyager..

[james]

good sugestions, keep them coming

[Jim]

go west is very good and technical for the grade.
don't talk to me about all quiet, its shit
heart arete isn't in the slightest bit technical.
Whats Gordon Ramsey got to do with any of this tho?

[Bonjoy]

This for the yootus masterclass?

 Chicken Ninja - Stanton and Beauty - Stanage North, both nice slabs totally reliant on friction and footwork (they don't have handholds)
 Slab trending left, on block left of Jerry's Arete - RHS
 Cool Running - Rivelin
 The pocketed slab on the roaches lower tier boulders

[james]

That it is, going to go and check them out in the next few days to asses suitability.

[Bonjoy]

 Sick at Higgar east would make a good example of how cunning can tame a problem. Most make the prob harder by trying to dyno or mantle, but it can be done static with relative ease by using a deep left gayleg.

[dave]

think tank at wimberry. the poor man's not to be taken away...

you're shitting me right? thats gotta be the most A-technical problem at the crag. its just pulling from what i remember.

how about that smearing slab up at the 5 clouds? the one on its own up above the freestanding boulder - old english 6a?
or those easy groove problems on the right hand end of the Big Air boulder?

[Paul B]

Those few problems on the lone boulder at plantation are nice and foot reliant, the start of NTBTA, does anyones elses foot never seem to stick on that first footer?

[Bubba]

does anyones elses foot never seem to stick on that first footer?

only because it's polished to fuck

[SA Chris]

That it is, going to go and check them out in the next few days to asses suitability.

Are consultancy fees being paid?

[al]

head for baslow edge james, really good circuit of slabs up on the edge, right (as you look at it) of hot ziggerty onwards - a nice range of difficulty too, some sweet easy things too (if you trying to get some wide load up there)

[cofe]

head for baslow edge james, really good circuit of slabs up on the edge, right (as you look at it) of hot ziggerty onwards - a nice range of difficulty too, some sweet easy things too (if you trying to get some wide load up there)

at a boy. get to baslow.

ditto dave on think tank - it's about as technical as a hammer. likewise that little trav at stanage opposite green trav. that's not technical or friction dependant.

pebble arete all the way on the right?

[Aussiegav]

i agree, my mistake.
 the traverse at stanage and think tank are not technical. but are good problems, and i feel they are worth recommending.

[Falling Down]

pebble arete all the way on the right?

With no chips either - smear or disapear.
The right arete on the deliverance face seems to puzzle some folk - it's all in the hips and straight arms.

Some more:

An eliminate up the flakes on the face of the pebble (straight up without the big flake - requires a bit of faith and toes by fingers before a rock up.

Another vote for the slab on the lone boulder.

Any of the Joe's slab problems and that little slab nestling in the trees below Valkyrie.

The little short slab at Burbage Nth just beyond re-emergence.

Anything at Burbage South boulders.

[Moo]

jerry's traverse 

[Houdini]

That narrows it down Moo!

[Moo]

 

[Jim]

cratcliff tor warm up area. some good technical easy probs, faith in friction stylee

[dave]

or rather "faith in chips". theres some good sport to be had eliminating chips, aretes, hands etc. real shame about the chips though, could have been a whole different story, not just a trashed warmup area. chippers have got a lot to answer for.

C'est la vie patrick.

"la vie".

[Resonate]

heart arete isn't in the slightest bit technical.

just cos you slapped your way up it...

[Jim]

exactly. not technical

[(woz)]

just in case all of that wasn't enough, i've always thought the buckstone was good for easier technical stuff - plus you could teach them how to dyno