in reply to Mills017.
Drive to the small village of Pantymwyn, its a few miles off the mold/denbigh road, i always come from the Denbigh side, ive never actually been from the mold side, which i presume is the direction you would come from, anyway assuming your in the village from the mold side, your looking for a left hand turn, pretty much in the middle of the village. about 50 metres after this junction there is a small road on your right, on a bend, with a cattle grid and a gate. park on the RH side of the road about ten metres before he cattle grid.your surrounded by leafy, pleasant houses, which use to be the home of Coldplay guitarist Jon Buckland.
walk towards the small turn off on the bend, its actually a v.long driveway. cross over the cattle grid and walk down road, under some overhanging trees, until you reach the bottom where the road bends round. theres a style in front of you, cross this and head down the path. About 30 metres after the style, take the smaller right hand path, which takes you down to the bottom of the gorge. you can approach from Loggerheads carpark aswell, just follow the river in the opposite direction to mold until you reach the gorge bridge, its pretty obvious however it takes about 20 minutes to walk.
the bouldering can be found about 30 metres right of the main gorge. however there is a pretty good V8 in the actual gorge, directly beneath the bridge, stand up start, should be obvious. on the main crag, youve got a v9, and v6 on the LH side, starting in the cave, both finish and start on the same holds, but V9 takes the obvious pocket with RH, V6- take it with your LH. V8+ traverse from cave to big jug half way along crag. and on the RH side a V7 from a sitter on the big jugs using drilled pocket. and V9 traverse from same holds to slap to lip, to a jug with RH. there is more problems, up to date photo topo coming soon hopefully.
hope you find it, it is actually pretty good, its in an area which needed some bouldering. i.e between snowdonia and the peak. there are more limestone venues around clwyd, but they're not as good, and secret anyway. its getting more popular now, i would say though that unless you climb V6> theres not really much to do. if you want more info, get the new clwyd limestone guide which features a small topo.
