lousy bank holiday weather (Read 13632 times)

Stu Littlefair · May 21, 2003, 11:36:47 am

Well, the forecast is as piss poor as it can be.
But it's a bank holiday, and I'm climbing anyway, so where does everyone reckon the best chance of getting some dry bouldering done?

Will Parisella's Cave seep? Roadrunner?

dave · May 21, 2003, 11:40:16 am

There is only 1 guaranteed dry bouldering venue, and that is Roche Abbey.

Bubba · May 21, 2003, 11:59:33 am

It's looking bad bad bad :cry:

And I'm also supposed to be painting the outside of the house prior to a mortgage valuation - that'll be a larf.

Go caving :wink:

dobbin · May 21, 2003, 12:10:34 pm

if its sooo bad, i think I might go to Ian and Gaz's wall in Blackburn.

Gollum? Jolly Roger?

Adam Lincoln · May 21, 2003, 12:42:45 pm

Quote from: "dobbin"

if its sooo bad, i think I might go to Ian and Gaz's wall in Blackburn.

Gollum? Jolly Roger?

Join the club!

T.H. · May 21, 2003, 02:11:36 pm

Well I've spent all day in a cave working a problem. It was great being able to climb while the rain was pissing down just feet away. Unfortunately the problem was absolutely sick hard, and I could only manage a couple of moves (which is bad as the problem's about 25' long). More time spent on my woodie this weekend I guess.

I'm going to Belfast next week, anyone know of any good bouldering near there, what about indoor facilities?

dobbin · May 21, 2003, 02:42:22 pm

Is it good then adam? Gollum was banging on about how good it was...

Re the Belfast thing - I'm a regular in Belfast and would be interested to learn of any training facilities???

Adam Lincoln · May 21, 2003, 02:52:59 pm

Quote from: "dobbin"

Is it good then adam? Gollum was banging on about how good it was...

Re the Belfast thing - I'm a regular in Belfast and would be interested to learn of any training facilities???

It is as good as it gets. What makes it good is the problems. All very very good. All quite long aswell for boulder problems

dobbin · May 21, 2003, 02:59:30 pm

Its that bloody weasel and his inhuman stamina!

its not fair. Strong and fit.

Adam Lincoln · May 21, 2003, 03:01:13 pm

Quote from: "dobbin"

Its that bloody weasel and his inhuman stamina!

its not fair. Strong and fit.

Speaking of the weasel, Gaz did a new route in Wilton the other day and named it the Darwin Weasel, very funny!

dobbin · May 21, 2003, 03:18:33 pm

I bet he's made up that Percy's throwaway comment became his nicname!

Adam Lincoln · May 21, 2003, 03:40:18 pm

Quote from: "Adam Lincoln"

Quote from: "dobbin"
Is it good then adam? Gollum was banging on about how good it was...

Re the Belfast thing - I'm a regular in Belfast and would be interested to learn of any training facilities???

It is as good as it gets. What makes it good is the problems. All very very good. All quite long aswell for boulder problems

Only down side is your ego can take a denting. Ian being Ian does think you can get anything harder than V10 indoors. Plus as he is so strong, some of the easier stuff v7/8/9 can feel hard for grade. But, cest la vie!

mark s · May 21, 2003, 06:46:33 pm

think we will be indoors aswell.have not touched rock since last thursday.TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT im bored .

David S · May 22, 2003, 08:54:54 am

Hey up Mark
WHEN the weather improves and we stand a chance to get some pics I'll call you.

Yep, Adam's right Gaz Parry did do a new route called Darwin Weasel 'aquired' from Percy's nickname for Ian. Picks will be in the next round of rags.

BTW the weather down the south coast is set to be fair this weekend for those desperate to touch rock.

Doylo · May 22, 2003, 12:37:58 pm

Roadrunner and Parasellas will probably be seeping Stu.

Stu Littlefair · May 22, 2003, 02:37:27 pm

So much for always being able to climb in Wales.

Now what the fuck? :?

I've heard the Tor is dry, can anyone confirm?

And Bubba, don't people die in caves after rain? What are you trying to do to me?

Bubba · May 22, 2003, 02:51:13 pm

Quote from: "Stu Littlefair"

And Bubba, don't people die in caves after rain? What are you trying to do to me?

Only sometimes ... sometimes it just makes them more "sporting" :wink:

Climbing/caving trivia: Pete Livesey's route, "Mossdale Trip" was so named after six people he new were killed in Mossdale Caverns when it flooded to the roof. Apparantly, they didn't all drown, some of them were battered to death by being swept down the cave. Nice. This was Britains worst ever caving accident , the cave is now closed, and the men were buried in the far reaches of the cave.

Doylo · May 22, 2003, 03:00:34 pm

The tor was still ok a few days ago but was starting to get soapy! Now i fear the worse. Haven't got a clue where the best place to climbs gonna be. Could get lucky at somewhere like Porth Ysgo but its a flamin gamble!

dave · May 22, 2003, 03:01:30 pm

As i said, Roche Abbey = no gamble.

nik at work · May 22, 2003, 03:19:39 pm

Font?

Roll on Saturday...

Bubba · May 22, 2003, 03:23:30 pm

You're just obsessed with fonts

nik at work · May 22, 2003, 03:41:32 pm

oh ha-bloody-ha...

Actually tried to get a valuation done by a surveyor yesterday and he has totally fucked us about and refused to give us a valuation at all - cnut.
Oh well a weekend of glorious bouldering in France will calm me I should imagine...

Bubba · May 22, 2003, 03:49:20 pm

Sorry. It's nearly going home time, that's my excuse.

Presumably you won't have to pay him though.

nik at work · May 22, 2003, 03:56:17 pm

definitely not paying him anything.

The annoying part is that we told him what the place was like beforehand just to check that he would be able to value it, he said "no problem" then turns up and immediately says "I can't give that a valuation". If he'd of said that at the outset then we would have arranged an alternative surveyor, but oh no Mr wank face has to delay us by a few weeks firs. Stupid prick couldn't value a pound coin.

And relax.....<sigh>

Pantontino · May 22, 2003, 10:50:17 pm

Stu, if you are wondering about conditions on the Ormes. The most important factor is how windy it is. The caves are always seeping in some way or other, but even after days and days of rain a fresh wind can keep the rock surface climbable.
A bit of a gamble I know, but then there is always Hylldrem or like Chris said Porth Ysgo - it never rains down there (well, not very often).

Cheers, Simon.

Stu Littlefair · May 23, 2003, 10:04:39 am

Cheers Simon,

Now you've confused me. Are you just trying to lure me to wales to spend money in outside?

Damn you all, WHERE DO I GO???!

james · May 23, 2003, 10:44:00 am

Come to the snore, It was still in good nick last night, Going again tonight so will report back. Pump up the power was in good nick and felt piss compared to last saturday.
Cheers

James

Stu Littlefair · May 23, 2003, 11:58:48 am

I might well be there then.

Cheers, young man! :

hongkongstuey · May 23, 2003, 02:47:07 pm

Quote from: "james"

Pump up the power was in good nick and felt piss

i'd love to be strong enough to be able to say that!

james · May 23, 2003, 02:57:20 pm

Thats the weird thing. Everyone keeps saying how strong I am but I am not, Infact, I'm piss weak. I cant even do a one armer. To be honest, putp did not feel that powerful. Once I had worked out my sequence it fult pretty steady. I am going to get on it on a rope later so fingers crossed. You do need strong fingers though

.
Cheers

James

Doylo · May 23, 2003, 06:30:49 pm

i would say your main atributes james are that you are light and have tiny fingers (the smaller the fingers the bigger the holds!). PUTP must suit you pretty well, get it done.

dobbin · May 23, 2003, 07:16:23 pm

I've top roped it and it didn't feel piss! bastard! and I can do one armers!

You think you're coming climbing on Satdy - I'm gonna bury ya in the Cave! see how strong you are then!

Bubba · May 23, 2003, 11:12:01 pm

Quote from: "dobbin"

and I can do one armers!

I'm starting to hate you :wink:

Quote from: "james"

Everyone keeps saying how strong I am but I am not, Infact, I'm piss weak.

James - you have evil finger strength, fuck all bodyweight, good technique, and a good approach to the whole thang - you're sorted

What is strong? - I could almost certainly lift more weight than you down the gym, but I'm never going to be anywhere as strong on the rock. Power to weight, innit....

hongkongstuey · May 26, 2003, 11:06:24 am

i'm guessing that BH Monday is nice then judging by the lack of people to talk to here?

dobbin · May 27, 2003, 07:57:41 am

Yeah Monday was cool! the weather ain't been so bad this weekend after all. Despite heavy showers in the morning on Saturday, the rest of the weekend was allright. Snore was busy inspite of rain. Stu was very strong, James had tenacious steely strong fingers, I moaned a lot and struggled to string two moves together and Chris was impressed.

CragX was wet through on Saturday and better (but not perfect) yesterday.

james · May 27, 2003, 10:13:03 am

Crag x was ok late on yesterday. I nearly did the pinch, should get it next time.
I did Pump up the Power Yesterday

, which was nice. Does anyone know of any hard but short 8b's.
Cheers

James

dobbin · May 27, 2003, 08:02:53 pm

Good effort sir! You were looking strong on it on Saturday. Did you do a big gay match or did you power straight through like a beast?

The pinch is a cool problem, had a look in at it yesterday and made it to the ear in good style but couldn't move out of that position - anyone any beta?

james · May 28, 2003, 08:55:42 am

The big gay match for a big gay punter like myself

. That bit wasnt the problem, it was getting the last gaston thingy, I must have hit it about 6 times before I held it. It got quite anoying.
For the pinch there are two methods that I know of, one uses the ear and one uses a weird but good hold further up and right. I was trying it the second way. When are you next out?
Cheers

James

dave · May 28, 2003, 09:09:07 am

not a bad weekend overall for me, despite only getting out a couple of times. Saw matrix reloaded, did westside story :D , rocket man, satin, wednesday climb (bo!)

, knights move and pock-man sans chips. Also got close to the top on spring voyage and storm - something to go back to when its colder. Also did what might be a new easier problem on burbage - well as close as you can get excepting that ron and jason did everything in the peak years ago.

"gimme a rewind"

dave · May 28, 2003, 09:10:49 am

Forgot to say i also did our very own Scouse Dogg's (/Ru's) neo-classic stamina-fest Crash 'n Gurn V7. mofo.

Bubba · May 28, 2003, 09:13:02 am

Well, congratulations to everyone for their fruitful weekends :D

What did I do? I painted the entire outside of the house in a hideous two and a half day epic that left me with crippled wrists and eyes full of paint.

dave · May 28, 2003, 09:21:14 am

If it makes you feel any better I've got fuck all skin now and i'm taking the week off cos my elbow is giving me the old 911.

Scouse D · May 28, 2003, 09:34:22 am

I want photo evidence Dave!! Everyone's done that problem now! Do you reckon V7 as consensus seems to be toward V6 now?
Good effort on Wednesday climb-I know you've been in training for it for a while now.

dave · May 28, 2003, 09:39:48 am

dunno, its piss once you've got it sorted but you've also got to take into account the 20-odd goes of just trying to jerk your arse off the mat. Took me ages to decide how to hold the mono, after i got that sorted it was alright. Maybe welsh V7 :wink: .

and don't worry john got some photos.

Scouse D · May 28, 2003, 09:47:56 am

Word.
How was pock man sans pock? Did it back in the day and remember it being a tasty little number. Did you try the B9 slab?

dave · May 28, 2003, 09:59:25 am

pockman sans chips is superb, a bit goey with tricky rockover at the top. Tasty B5?

Had a token stab at the B9 slab, didn't get anywhere. Anyone done this? (nik?) i would accept any beta....

Bubba · May 28, 2003, 10:03:23 am

Quote from: "dave"

Had a token stab at the B9 slab, didn't get anywhere. Anyone done this? (nik?) i would accept any beta....

Oh, I've tried many times....tasty lil' number innit? I know Fatdoc has done it and if he ever gets off his moutain bike and pops in here he might enlighten us.
Aren't there some footholds low down right that make the first move a bit easier - reckon they're out of bounds really though.

dave · May 28, 2003, 10:13:08 am

Yeah the low pocket-bullethole was only think getting me off the ground, but you get marrooned there. Seems way harder than those roaches spring slabs.

james · May 28, 2003, 10:22:12 am

Not tried that one, is it any good.
Cheers

James

nik at work · May 28, 2003, 10:47:05 am

get stood on the slab then whack your left foot up reet high and kind of palm off with your right hand. Almost bridging the groove style thingy do-dah. then just keep on truckin...
Hard problem that is eased significantly by being a flexible little mo-fo, unfortunatley I am not so I took the approach of falling off a gigazillion times until the rock got bored of me and let me get to the top just so I'd piss off and leave it alone. May well be harder than the spring boulder probs (bobba fett at al) but I did them a few years apart so couldn't really say.
Tra-la-laaaa....
Never tried a pockless pockman though, that sounds fun.

Johnny Brown · May 28, 2003, 01:50:16 pm

Where is this slab problem? Burbage?

dave · May 28, 2003, 01:52:46 pm

yeah. left of Pock-man, burbage south boulders.