Problem modelling (Read 6768 times)

Bubba · May 21, 2003, 09:33:11 am

Has anyone ever built a mock-up of their project on their woody?

Malc Smith famously built a Hubble replica before his repeat, and Gullich built his campus board so he could train the ridiculous mono-strength required for Action Direct, but have any of you ever tried it....and did it work?

I wonder if you could actually somehow mold the actual bit of rock, without damaging it.....on second thoughts, that'd be a complete nightmare and would probably leave resin all over the place or something.

james · May 21, 2003, 09:42:18 am

I heard that you use tin foil. You sort of squidge it around each hold to make a very flimsy mould. I recon you would have to be careful when transporting them. Not the sort of thing to chuck in the bottom of your bag

Cheers

James

Bubba · May 21, 2003, 09:43:46 am

So do you know someone who's actually done it?

Foil would work, but the transport would be a nightmare...one bit of wind and that's it.

dave · May 21, 2003, 09:46:12 am

My font guide says there was a bloke who built a replica of Fatman before it got climbed to train on. Don't know if he ever did it though.

I think Gaskins also had a Hubble replica, but his was 2 grades harder than the original (9a+!).

I've not managed to build a woody yet, naymind any replicas.

james · May 21, 2003, 09:48:55 am

I heard Button Moon had done it, Cant remember what problem. I think it would be ok aslong as you folded over a large sheet a few times before moulding, it would make it a bit stronger.
Cheers

James

nik at work · May 21, 2003, 09:59:57 am

i once modeled a boulder problem in my cellar. however i didn't measure it up or anything, i just made all the hold so they felt a bit shitter and a bit further away from each other than the real thing and also had it a bit steeper.
I never managed to climb my homemade version of the problem but i did do the problem it was based on.

yes i was once that sad...

dobbin · May 21, 2003, 10:07:07 am

Ben Moon modelled Hubble I think...

When Ian and I were young and impressionable we modelled some holds of Pump up the Power, more to see if it could be done rather than anything else, we used foil (makes crap holds) and latex - very good but it leaves the rock with a thin film on it so you have to wash it down or else the water beads up and runs off it...

Would you go to a replica crag? say I moulded the tor or something and stuck it in the foundry?

dave · May 21, 2003, 10:10:02 am

couldn't you just cake the hold in play-dough, then make a cast using plaster of paris at the crag, then use that at home to make your replicas.

james · May 21, 2003, 10:14:14 am

Speaking of pump up the power, have you any crafty beta? Did you do it?
Cheers

James

Bubba · May 21, 2003, 10:21:58 am

Quote from: "nik at work"

I never managed to climb my homemade version of the problem but i did do the problem it was based on.

you could say it did it's job then....

Bubba · May 21, 2003, 10:23:12 am

Quote from: "dobbin"

and latex - very good but it leaves the rock with a thin film on it so you have to wash it down or else the water beads up and runs off it...

Where the hell do you get liquid latex from?

Quote from: "dobbin"

Would you go to a replica crag? say I moulded the tor or something and stuck it in the foundry?

If it was a decent crag maybe, but not the snore

Bubba · May 21, 2003, 10:24:22 am

Quote from: "dave"

couldn't you just cake the hold in play-dough, then make a cast using plaster of paris at the crag, then use that at home to make your replicas.

It'd work, but might be very messy, especially if you wanted to do the whole of the Inertia Reel Traverse or something.

nik at work · May 21, 2003, 10:34:46 am

Quote from: "Bubba"

you could say it did it's job then....

true, but it's still pretty sad :D

RichardB · May 21, 2003, 12:07:54 pm

There must be a lot of Hubble replicas around!

Wouldn't work for me. Haven't got a woody & every V4 I try becomes a 'project'.

dobbin · May 21, 2003, 12:08:20 pm

Quote from: "james"

Speaking of pump up the power, have you any crafty beta? Did you do it?
Cheers

James

yes and no, I have top roped it but never actually done on the lead - must finish it off over the summer. Crafty beta, there isn't alot too it - strong lad like yerself should have no problems. I found that you do need to get your foot sequence properly wired if you are a big weakling like me. I know you are a bit shorter than me so the following start tip may help, rather than doing a power sapping one armer to get started stick your toe in the next pocket along and you can roll over your arm to get to the next big jug. I can rock over from the rh on spike move and avoid the match, that makes a difference for the next two moves. Thick end of 8a+ that one.

Quote from: "Bubba"

Where the hell do you get liquid latex from?

Me and Ian used to be Rockfaces climbing walls (or RockFaeces as we knew it) and used to use it and some wierd silicone stuff to make holds, we bought it from Glassplies in Southport, which is a fibreglass shop. Its quite cheap.

Quote from: "Bubba"

not the snore

Sniff, she's a marvellous crag. :wink:

james · May 22, 2003, 09:56:15 am

When will you next be at the snore? You can teach a weak grit boy like myself how to pull a bit harder. I am usualy there a few times a week. It would be good to meet up/get some beta/find out how weak I am

.
Cheers

James

dobbin · May 22, 2003, 10:13:46 am

Hopefully over the weekend! however, my missus may have other ideas :bash: PM me yer number and I shall text you when I know I'm goin...

Sorry for the following comment:-

It'd be good to put a rope back on it acshully...

james · May 22, 2003, 10:22:04 am

No need to be ashamed, We all get these urges from time to time. After doing out of my tree I have developed quite a taste for it. I can even remember Bubba muttering something like "it would be quite nice to do some sport routes this summer"

.
Ill PM you my number.
Cheers

James

dobbin · May 22, 2003, 10:30:21 am

You gritstone heroes are so brave - the top of out of my tree involves a run out with a big loose flake for company, and given the consistency of the tor thats saying something.

Bubba · May 22, 2003, 10:31:27 am

Quote from: "james"

I can even remember Bubba muttering something like "it would be quite nice to do some sport routes this summer" .

Damn! My past comes back to haunt me :wink:

I reckon if there was any easy sport stuff in the Peak that was actually on a nice crag then I'd be seriously tempted. The only reason I don't like the Snore is coz I can't do anything there, which leaves me with the sub-tropical Chee Dale where you must wrestle the giant cabbages to even get near a route, or such delightul locations such as Horseshoe Quarry which imho should be blown up. Oh yeah, it already has been ..... fill it in!

james · May 22, 2003, 10:37:53 am

Even though it was a sport route, I couldnt help trying to turn it into a trad route. About halfway up the runout and lose flake i spied a bommer rock 2 placement which I couldnt resist

.
Cheers

James

dave · May 22, 2003, 10:38:54 am

I think there are some nice easier sport crags, like I once went to beerhouse buttress and it was good. Also the other CragX is supposed to be good. Also Peter Dale is reconed to be a nice place, better ask Dave S about it.

Bubba · May 22, 2003, 10:45:20 am

Maybe I'll have to buy a harness and some 'draws - I've got a brand new rope that's sat in a box since my last "oh, I'll do some sport climbing" urge about 5 years ago.
Actually, do ropes go bad if they've never been used for that long?

Went to look at that CragX years ago before there were any routes on it. It looked so shite I couldn't even be arsed to get out the bolt kit. Still, it might have cleaned up some.

What's the beerhouse gear like? Is it all gnarly 80's style rusty 8mm hangers, or is decent?

dave · May 22, 2003, 11:08:00 am

can't remember, we only did some 6a+ and 6b, but i think it might have been staples. Won't have been shitty half-inch troll bolts though as it was a 90's development by gibson/sid i think.

fatboySlimfast · May 22, 2003, 11:23:44 am

have to say guys that really its all shit isnt it, british sport climbing is crap!
Crag x is wank( and chipped!!!) beer house is crap (didnt bother and i used to live in walking distnace of it) and most of chee dale is muddy, loose and polished. Rubicon is painfull and polished, raven tor ok but loose and polished , malham is good but polished, kilsney also, pen trwyn 's ok but fickle cons ...... not exactly french limestone :cry:
oh well rant over
Your rope would be fine bubba, so when u want to do some routes then :wink: