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Lancashire update (Read 7025 times)

andy_e

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Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 12:31:53 pm
Bumped into Jordan at the weekend (working Toxic Bilberries) who informed me that he'd recently done a few new routes in the area.

Firstly he did an E7 on the Pool Wall at Denham (maybe JR knows more about this than me?), and then on Friday he completed his project at Egerton which broke his leg last year. Boomerang is E8 6c and is found right of Cherry Bomb, and is so called because he couldn't stop coming back to it.

Good effort by the lad!

Jim

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#1 Re: Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 01:15:27 pm
should read as
Whilst out stalking Jordan at the weekend

andy_e

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#2 Re: Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 01:17:15 pm
Oh yes, how silly of me! :lol:

JR

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#3 Re: Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 05:53:48 pm

Firstly he did an E7 on the Pool Wall at Denham (maybe JR knows more about this than me?),

yeah i do ;-)  E7 6b

andy_e

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#4 Re: Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 05:57:08 pm
Told you so...

What did he call it? And where does it go?

JR

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#5 Re: Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 07:38:34 pm
Told you so...

What did he call it? And where does it go?

no name afaik, imagine pink floyd may be a contender but who knows. but it goes up the pool wall, sustained with pegs and a zero cam and a size 6 friend.  Cant remember the rest of the details, goes left then right i think then gear below the overlap. sustained...

more importantly how the hell do you know i know about it?  Ive only just got back in lancashire... and i only spoke to jordan about it last night...  just a good guess or do i need to change my phone?

andy_e

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#6 Re: Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 07:50:10 pm
Just a good guess! Seeing as how you are a Denham local, I'd have thought you'd have known.

Change your phone anyway, they're on to you...

nik at work

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#7 Re: Lancashire update
July 24, 2006, 08:10:47 pm
Where does this route go up pool wall at that grade?
From what I remember the central line (following the old bolt line) of pool wall would have been a couple of technical grades harder than that, and probably worth another E or two...

Andy F

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#8 Re: Lancashire update
July 25, 2006, 08:33:41 am
Where does this route go up pool wall at that grade?
From what I remember the central line (following the old bolt line) of pool wall would have been a couple of technical grades harder than that, and probably worth another E or two...

Exactly what I was thinking. Didn't Mark Leach try and top-rope this way back in the day, and say it was brick (8b-8b+) hard, with bugger all gear, to go direct?

nik at work

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#9 Re: Lancashire update
July 25, 2006, 10:56:48 am
All I know is that when I tried it I thought it was solid 7a, quite sustained, and there was a move I couldn't do.
Like I say I'd have guessed E9 7a but these youngsters are pretty strong nowadays....

Andy F

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#10 Re: Lancashire update
July 25, 2006, 11:00:51 am
There's a big jump from E7 6b to E9 7a (8b/8b+)... The gear sounded ok as well "with pegs and a zero cam and a size 6 friend".
Sounds like he took a slightly different line to the one I'm thinking of, still a very fine effort though.

JR

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#11 Re: Lancashire update
July 25, 2006, 01:06:02 pm
yeah i had the same thoughs, but figured he's found some sneaky line.  Will try and clear things up when i get back from the lakes and have a phone signal thursday unless someone gets there first.

irt andy f, they were described as poor pegs but i erroneously ommited that in my intial post...
« Last Edit: July 25, 2006, 01:36:30 pm by JR »

JR

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#12 Re: Lancashire update
July 27, 2006, 09:47:43 am
right then.

it goes up the left of the wall from the platform on the left of the pool.  Up to a poor peg then climbs to the floor and takes a sustined line to the left pretty much straight up to the big pocket under the overlap which has a goodish peg to the left and a 6 friend to the right.  If you fall off before the peg and friend, which is the crux, you'll deck.  somewhere F7b-7c J said, haven't tried it but the climbing looks good.  The holds have a tendency to be a little friable.  Anymore info, buy the mags, alex took some awesome photos last night.  Forgot to ask him if it had a name.

he also has some awesome photos of boomerang, which looks amazing.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2006, 02:41:19 pm by JR »

JR

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#13 Re: Lancashire update
July 27, 2006, 10:36:02 am
also, the bottom wall where all the bouldering is has been jet washed.  I'm assuming it's been done by the council to get rid of the graffiti or am i wrong?  Either way it looks a mess and you can't see the holds anymore, but the friction is good!

JR

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#14 Re: Lancashire update
July 27, 2006, 12:48:34 pm
Forgot to ask him if it had a name.

Splash Back, E7 6b

JR

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#15 Re: Lancashire update
July 27, 2006, 08:14:54 pm
just had a quick go on it, really quite hard, but really dirty, very sustained and the low peg is poor, the high peg looks good, but deck out potential before it.  It does not take the direct line i guess you guys are thinking of but it goes up a couple of metres left, it moves right along the overlap and finishes in the middle of the wall.

andy_e

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#16 Re: Lancashire update
July 27, 2006, 11:13:04 pm
Still a project to do then...  :thumbsup:

a dense loner

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#17 Re: Lancashire update
July 28, 2006, 09:11:55 am
yep, get on it... and hopefully stay there

 

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