[(woz)]

 ...is no more. After being shut for several months it has finally been knocked down. Often quoted as being the the first indoor wall in the country (1964), and the training ground of many top climbers (Syrett, Bransby etc). I first saw it on Tv with Al Manson training there before going out to Caley (and getting on Marrow Bone Jelly), and have climbed there over the past few years. Those polished highball (and nails!) problems in the corridor will always have a special place in my heart.



RIP

On a lighter note, the uni have kindly offered to build us a new wall which seems to be some form of high toproping slab. Brilliant.

Edit: here is the link to some other pics:http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/walls/wallinfo.html?id=376

[dobbin]

You never know - it might be the training for Duel you needed. Is Collegiate wall still there?

[(woz)]

I don't think that any amount opf training could get me up duel ! Have never heard of this 'collegiate' wall of which you speak, unless its the one out by becketts park?

[andy_e]

 

Couldn't they have waited another year, at least so i could have experienced it?

[(woz)]

I still have a couple of holds from the newer bit which I kept as momentos, although perhaps it would be unhygienic for anyone but me to 'experience' them.

[Monolith]

absolutely gutted. was the prime stomping ground of my university life. Where do they propose to build this slab effort? Does the uni intend to build some new student flats there or something?

[Control freak]

Thats a big shame. The newer wood/bolt on section was shit but the old skool corridoor was nails. There were some proper hard problems in there on brick edges

[(woz)]

absolutely gutted. was the prime stomping ground of my university life. Where do they propose to build this slab effort? Does the uni intend to build some new student flats there or something?

The old building was knocked down to make room for an arty centre (Bretton Hall has/is being closed down). I'm pretty sure the new wall is going to be built in some old squash courts inside the main sports centre, and is due to be finished sometime before christmas. In the meantime us students will have to make do with the classic henry price building (anyone know if the full trverse has been done?) and my new board in hyde park

[andy_e]

Wahey, guess who's got accomadation at Henry Price in september? (although I've heard the place is a dump) What's this new board like?

[(woz)]

Henry price is actually quite a good place to climb - think minus ten, or by the looks of things crewe flats. Its also being refurbished over summer so should be slightly less of a s**thole
My board is currently in production in chesterfield, so at the moment it is like a sheet of ply

[webbo]

 In the meantime us students will have to make do with the classic henry price building (anyone know if the full trverse has been done?) and my new board in hyde park

i believe mr manson did this back in the day.he seemed to virtually live there at one time.
the traverse has got easier over the years due to people gouging out the cement.

[(woz)]

wow, I'd give him several wad points for that! French 8b?

[Monolith]

man how I miss henry price, very jealous of you andi!
After our Sunday morning 8 am hungover football sessions on the astro, back to price for a few hours kip before a heavy bouldering sesh.
I was told that the traverse went at around v5. Could always set yourself the rule that no use of gouged out holds is allowed. There are so many face holds though that that wouldn't be a problem I'm sure.

[andy_e]

Shit picture, but:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=6325

is it over on the left, in the shade? Surely that can't be it in the middle...

[Monolith]

Can't see that picture too clearly, but the bouldering is the wall at the back (facing university) of Henry Price flats.
Think this is what you wanted to know? 

[andy_e]

Yeah dude, that's the knowledge. Anybody got any proper pictures?

[Monolith]

have got quite a few that my uni friend has of us bouldering on there. will email them to you if he sends them.

[(woz)]

Dave Mason on HP:



The full traverse isn't V5. It can't be . Maybe V5 for one of the sections, but the full thing? at least v10 in my opinion.

[andy_e]

Oooh, looks crimpy 

[(woz)]

Yeah, and it tears your skin up a bit. Which along with smart arse comments from smart arse students is why I don't climb there very often. Still, there are hundreds of problems at all grades there, and usually someone else to climb with.

[andy_e]

Ho long are we talking, the entire length of the building? Cripes...

[andy_e]

Finally getting my arse in gear and going to HP for an hour or so today, so I don't feel I've wasted the entire day!

[(woz)]

nice one. Most of the harder problems are on the tallest left hand section (good dynos, crimpy stuff, and a 7b+ ish mantle). a bit further right there are some sideways dynos to the pipe, and the legendary unrepeated backwards double dyno to squeezing one of the big white hanging sections (prob still chalk marks) that uber wad joel did a couple of years ago.
And then there is the traverse (second section from left is easiest, left is hardest)

[monkey boy]

nice one. Most of the harder problems are on the tallest left hand section (good dynos, crimpy stuff, and a 7b+ ish mantle). a bit further right there are some sideways dynos to the pipe, and the legendary unrepeated backwards double dyno to squeezing one of the big white hanging sections (prob still chalk marks) that uber wad joel did a couple of years ago.
And then there is the traverse (second section from left is easiest, left is hardest)

Tut tut daniel not unrepeated, i did it once!! haha! but banged my head very badly, joel had it dialled! Tis good place for getting those fingers working, shame that everytime i go i forget what holds were used for good problems oh well!

Enjoy it anyway andy

[monkey boy]

  Infact this is what i did as i held the squeeze!