[Falling Down]

I'm off to El Chorro next Friday am. for a short weekend trip so will have most of Friday, all of Sat and most of Sunday.

I'll be (trying) to onsight routes rather than spending the weekend redpointing (unless I fall off of course) as I'm keen to sample as much as possible whilst I'm there so does anyone recomendations for 3* routes (up to 7a+'ish) that I must do whilst there?

[SA Chris]

That snuck up quick!  :shock: Nice vertical stuff up at Escalade Arabia (or whatever Arab Steps is in Spanish). Bit of a stiff walk to get up there though. As many pitches of Poema Roca as you can manage (seats possibly in situ). Some good route up the hill from Lourdes, also a bit of a hike.

The crag round to the front has a good 6c, cant recall the name though. Beware of sharp rock, I ripped my cuticles to shreds and left pints covering the place.

Bollocks that's pretty useless. Having a C.R.A.F.T. day. Will look at some photos at home.

You taking a board for rest days? Tarifa's not too far  :

[andy_e]

Plenty of fantastic routes, not in the grades you described though, are available at Los Cotos, and the Old Station is good too...

[Bonjoy]

Makindroma is by far the best crag in Chorro, don't let the walk in disuade you! At the right hand end is an amazing must do route, about 7a, which climbs an extremely protruberent tufa (about 10inch wind, and 20inch deep). Not in the rockfax guide for some reason. Left of this are a few really long 7a-7b routes which are good.
 Zeppelin is worth the extra effort. Despite what the guide say you don't really need to bring any wire for this, so long as you don't mind running it out a bit on easy ground.
 Poema Roca of course.
 I hear Desplomlandia is worth the drive.

[Bonjoy]

If by the Old Station you mean Albercones (the bit with the tarmacced floor) I couldn't dissagree more. Hideously pollished, undergraded, vertical horror shows. The only crag more pollished than Minus Ten i've ever been to!

[andy_e]

If by the Old Station you mean Albercones (the bit with the tarmacced floor) I couldn't dissagree more. Hideously pollished, undergraded, vertical horror shows. The only crag more pollished than Minus Ten i've ever been to!

Well i quite liked it, the 6b+ was a piece of piss!

[SA Chris]

Makindromo is what I was referring to when I said "right of Lourdes". I am thinking of same tufa route you describe.

Thought Albercones was pretty horrible too.

And Andi, if Los Cotos is the south facing slabs further up the valley, I thought they were pretty unpleasant. So polished that slate has more friction. And at least slate has crimps.

[andy_e]

And Andi, if Los Cotos is the south facing slabs further up the valley, I thought they were pretty unpleasant. So polished that slate has more friction. And at least slate has crimps.

They were the first sport routes I ever did! It was a long time ago when I went and everything was amazing then, so maybe I'd enjoy it less nowadays...

[SA Chris]

Ever wonder if one day you will look back at your dank holes in the ground and think the same thing  :wink:

They were pretty polished when I went there ten years ago, must be awful now.

[Falling Down]

Cheers all - good knowledge as usual from UKB.

Chris - My climbing Brian called me this week and asked if fancied a weekend away so I couldn't restist.  I'll see you Monday in Aberdeen, I'm flying to UK tonight and then up to Aberdeen Monday ( at my Carbon footprint).  

Bonjoy - that Tufa 7a sounds just the job...

Andi - Thanks for giving me inadverdant good advice
 

[Sam]

go to Los Tigres there are loads of ace routes, vertical to reasonably steep 7a - 8a+ with loads more to go grading is a bit arse about face but climbing is good.

[Falling Down]

Got back last night after a great weekend.

Weather was a bit iffy on Friday but Saturday and Sunday were fantastic - warm and sunny with a gentle breeze.

Arrived about midday Friday - climbed at Las Encantadas (until it showered) then Poema de Roca 'til it got dark.

Saturday - Ventured into the gorge which was a fanastic experience and climbed at El Recodo.  It got a bit chilly so we headed out and up to Polvorino.

Sunday - Poema de Roca and Amptrax - Did the best 6b+ I've ever done Frente Judea de Popular... 40m of fantastic wall climbing with an improbable crux.

Stayed at the hotel in the village itself and had great food, beer and wine.

All in all a top weekend.. a good start to 2006.

[andy_e]

Did you get Amptrax ticked? That's one I definitely want to do!

[Falling Down]

Did you get Amptrax ticked? That's one I definitely want to do!

Nope - As we were only there for two and half days I avoided the really long routes.  It looks good though..

[StuM]

is this the big 7aish tufa at makinodromo? http://perso.orange.fr/jauffres/grimpe02/image3.htm

looks awesome

I'm going next week. anyone got any other suggestions around 7a/+? Poema de Roca is high on my tick list! cant wait!

[Doylo]

Little brown baby is a cracking 7a+

[underground]

Did you get Amptrax ticked? That's one I definitely want to do!

Cracker- although I was a bit injured at the time and feeling the effects of a: elevation  and b: prolonged bouldering induced fear of heights and lack of stamina - rather severely- it's steep for the grade and the bolts are half sticking out bits of rust. Last couple of pitches looked a bit run out from where I was almost in tears, refusing to abseil all the way back down as per the guidebook's recommendation.
Given the alternative, I think I shouted 'get me off this fucking cliff RIGHT now!' and chucked all my gear away at the base of the route....

(had to go and retrieve it though cos we only had my ropes between the three of us for a week! )

[Bonjoy]

is this the big 7aish tufa at makinodromo? http://perso.orange.fr/jauffres/grimpe02/image3.htm

looks awesome

Yup, that's the one.