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one for the heads out there (Read 1911 times)

dave

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one for the heads out there
July 12, 2006, 11:06:05 pm
yo, what is the problem twixt The Thing and Sean's? small but good crimps etc. look alright, not seen it cleaned before.

Also if anyones got any numbers for the pinch then hit me onetime honkie.

word

Ru

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#1 Re: one for the heads out there
July 13, 2006, 08:09:55 am
The thing between Sean's and the Thing I've only seen climbed as a cop out variation on Sean's, starting and finishing in the same place but using the crimps instead of the sloping dishes.

The Pinch: start with right hand on a verical pinch/good flat edge, left on a small, high, two finger crimp. Pull on right foot onto a choice of obvious footholds, left foot goes into the low break in a square cut corner (either on the vertical side of the corner, pulling inwards, or jamming your foot into it somehow). This lets you get the pinch reasonably statically. Once you have the pinch, step right foot high onto good flat footholds and sit on your foot, and go once (up to a bad vertical pinch), twice (up to a funny pinchy block). Sort your feet (lots of ways) and go for the finishing holds of Jericho Road.

Johnny Brown

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#2 Re: one for the heads out there
July 13, 2006, 10:28:07 am
 ;D Ru giving dave beta, that's priceless.
No excuses now eh Dave?
Especially not, 'I can't do it like this, its all bunched.'
Or 'But I can't do a one armer on that.'

Ru

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#3 Re: one for the heads out there
July 13, 2006, 10:34:29 am
It's pretty standard beta really, pretty much everyone does it like that. Like on Brad Pit. If it was beta I'd worked out by myself I'd just have made some smart arse joke about pulling harder.  ;)

a dense loner

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#4 Re: one for the heads out there
July 13, 2006, 01:32:30 pm
know aussie si did prob between them two as a completely independant prob, not as a cop-out. seem to recall him saying 7c+ ish

 

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