[StuM]

This has been asked on here before but no one ever seams to give a grade for it either way.

In Peak Bouldering Guide it says 7a+ from jug to sloper, i have to say i doubt that very much, felt maybe 7a+ (maybe harder compared to -10 dynos)  jug to jug for me, whats the real grade to the sloper? looks like a worthwhile summer time project to keep me away from ropes and the like...

[dave]

i've done it from jug to jug, felt nigh on 7b+/c to me. I'm 6'1 and did it with feet very high on edges, both hands on jug. never really tried it to the sloper, probably because it would be mental to hold. Everyone i know who's done it went to the jug.

[StuM]

cheers dave,

i did it with my left foot down in the break and right foot up on high edge, sort of made it into a dynamic rockover. still felt harder than any of the ones on minus ten so suppose your grade makes sense.

Has anyone done it to the sloper? looks like a proper challenge!

[a dense loner]

yes, dawes

[ian h]

done it to the jug , i thought 7b+

great dyno, did not really see the point of going to the sloper, would have thought that would be at least 7c

what is the deal with the guide giving it 7a+? which i acn kind of accept. but if that the case then quents must be 6c

[r-man]

Did this to the jug a couple of weeks ago. Brilliant move, took a fair few goes to get the movement wired. Haven't tried many other hard dynos (there aren't that many around, not proper ones  ) but maybe 7b+ is fair, if only because of the distance.

What does it compare to? ...There are one or two at Brownstones that are maybe a similiar difficulty, but unsure of the grade. What about that one at Trowbarrow though - similiar distance? Didn't manage that last time I was there, though it was a long time ago. That gets 7a+/7b and it's huge.

Haven't tried Quent's either. Looks a lot further.

Anyway, doing it to the sloper would be brilliant. Only one grade harder, you all reckon? Hitting the sloper with enough control to hang it... 

[StuM]

I think the one to the sloper has to be a lot harder. the footholds are worse, you have some sideways movement (which needs to be stopped at some point) and the obvious fact that the sloper is gonna be really hard to hang. Is the dawes really the only person to have done it?

[a dense loner]

prob not but he's the only person i know of, everyone now uses the big jug and the huge undercut sidepull now to the jug and then has the gall to say it's never 7c, which this never was

[r-man]

Sounds like everyone here is doing it from jug to jug though. I'm still not entirely sure it's 7b+, maybe 7b. Or maybe 7b+ is right. But like I said, what does it compare to? Most other hard dynos in the peak are bum starts, or slaps between crap holds.

Tried the Dawes dyno t'other day. Great fun hitting the sloper double handed, but other than hitting it really hard, I'm nowhere near achieving anything. Definitely one to aspire to. Best single move at Stoney?

[StuM]

I think the jug to jug dyno is a really good move, just sort of flows.

as for the sloper... does the friction (if i can call it that) improve a lot in cold weather? its gonna be so hard to stick, think its going to have to be a perfect dead point and even then a bit of luck. did you change your footholds to go to the sloper r-man?

project me thinks! 

[a dense loner]

Best single move at Stoney?

if you're on drugs i suppose it is. 

[r-man]

Best single move at Stoney?

if you're on drugs i suppose it is. 

Knew I'd get a reaction from that one. Good old Dense. 

[r-man]

as for the sloper... does the friction (if i can call it that) improve a lot in cold weather? its gonna be so hard to stick, think its going to have to be a perfect dead point and even then a bit of luck. did you change your footholds to go to the sloper r-man?

Reckon the friction will improve a bit - but there are ripples on the sloper, so I think it's probably doable in summer if you get the dyno right. I went with the same footholds - did try others, but although you can use ones more directly beneath the sloper, they are harder to get any height off. Still, I may be missing something. 

[dave]

you can write off trying that dyno in proper winter nick though cos the whole wall of not just the starting jug get piss wet in winter!