[Falling Down]

Beginners Wall @ Blackwell (the steep 7b near the Tor)...

I dogged this yesterday and was puzzled by the top move.. I have my left in the last good big pocket, r.h. in the small two finger pocket/thread and am then throwing a big move with left arm to go for a rattly pocket/jug to the left of the belay - it's a big move and hard.  Got to this point on the redpoint twice and fell off (grrr).

Anyone got any tips ?

[webbo]

i don't remember this being too bad.i had major problems reaching the good pocket with my left.i seemed to struggle to reach it well enough to pull on it,trashed my fingers on it a couple of times.i think i might have not clipped the last bolt on the r/p so as not to lose the umph for the move.which i guess means its easy to blow it there.

7b mmmmm i found it one of the harder 7b+ i did.it took me more goes than sturgeon in cupboard.

[dobbin]

I dont really remember what I did with my hands at the top, but I do remember that it wasnt that hard. I realise this is not much help, but start working it from the two pockets and keep trying - its all training. .

[Falling Down]

I belayed a mate on this a few years back and he had no trouble at the top either.... I'm wondering whether something has fallen off as there is a fresh looking scar just below the hold I'm going for.  I'm finding the rest of it hard but OK hence I was surprised at not being able to do the top move at all...

(7b+.. that sounds more like it !)

Cheers folks...

[AndiT]

Yeah, seem to remember a bit of a chucj for a rattling flatty. Found it hard because my mate could get loads of fingers in the pockets but I couldn't, actually, come to think of it he may have been doing a hand swap in the pocket. Try that, it might be the way.

[north_country_boy]

This move isn't too bad, espeically compared to the crux throw to the slot/pocket with your left hand! With the slot/pocket with left and thread/mon with right, i reach for the awkward corner/pocket above large (useless) sloper!, step left toe up onto dimple on ramp line to left and lock to flat hold just left of this. (avoid using pinchey/flat hold next to pocket covered in chalk as its very loose............I agree also, 7b+ all teh way and hard at that!!!

[dave]

I did this route last summer after getting on it a few years ago. I think its well 7b+ and very sustained for a short route, and the top is a fucker.

When i had dogged it years ago i did the top from the good pockets and thread-bi by putting right foot in low crux handhold, reaching up with right hand for a kind of broken niche-pinch above, putting left toe on the rampline out left and eyeballing (and thus grabbing) the top jug on the left.

However when i did it last summer instead i just kept going again and going again, slapping up with the right hand further and further until i had my right hand on a big loose jug, then grabbed the left jug.

when you've done this get on fossil wall its well jackson.

[Falling Down]

Nice beta y'all.... I've not climbed for a week due to f*cked back and neck although physio sorted it out... and I've been in Abersoch with the missus and surfing 'n ting.  Glad to hear it's as hard as I thought it was.

[north_country_boy]

Did Fossil wall on thurs, after a fair bot of brushing to remove all the shite along the crack/lay back.....quality route, don't be put off by the crack, and theres not much between Beginners wall and Fossil wall in terms of grade....go get chuffing!

[dave]

i actually think that fossil wall to the jug at the top of the crack makes a great highball problem in its own right. its all good.

[north_country_boy]

Yeah i'm sure it wouldn't be too bad above a couple of mats....i had an intimate moment with my belayer after falling off before latching the jug........make sure your belayer stands well under start!

[dave]

aye - we had a similar incident with the first bolt being a bit low there so in the end we actually sacked off the first bolt completeley and used a couple of mats instead, then carried on from the 2nd bolt as normal. at least that way you fall straight down instead of swinging at the bottom into the belayer/rock/ground.

[north_country_boy]

Yeah would recommend same to anyone intending on trying it...! Have you tried the 8a to the left? (Money is the cause of all evil or something ?), looks good and well worth bouldering the start out if nothing else? Got mates who want to go back to do fossil & beginners so would be nice to try something else if its worth it?

[dave]

me and scouse have had a go bouldering the start of TLOMITROAE bit it is hard, not really got anywhere though scouse has got further than me.

For soemthing more in the same grade as beginners and fossil theres Lets get physical which is between those 2 routes. if you start it from beginners wall its 7c i think. i been on it once but not been back to finish it, its OK, not as good as the other two but if you're there its worth getting on.

[north_country_boy]

Cheers Dave, had a look at that the other day, may give it a go next time i'm there......quite psyched for TLOMITCOAE though so will take a mat and try bouldering start out...cheers

[Falling Down]

So nearly three years after I posted a request for beta I finally went back this evening to try again. Got on much better this time and did the top move into the scoop/pocket then rocked left to grab jug with left hand.  Managed it in two sections so hopefully I'll get a successful redpoint next time - later this week rather than another three years.