[Teaboy]

I know it can get unbearably midgy but I've always been surprised to develop the left end of the Cornice as a bouldering venue. Apart from the starts to the routes there also seems to be scope for problems similar to the Kudos wall if it were cleaned up. Anyone here ever looked at the possibilities.

On a similar note, who first did the traverse on the opposite bank and what grade does it get?

[Bonjoy]

 Have noticed the potential before. The only bouldering I've ever done down there was a traverse of the Nook, which was pretty good, but quite dirty.
 No one has done that traverse in one yet. The crag is called Dog's Dinner Buttress. It has been tried by some hard climbers and is thought to be in the 8c+/9a (route grade) range.

[r-man]

What's it like, this traverse? Steep, vertical? Small holds, smaller holds? Long?

Worth playing on, or is it all too hard for mortals?

[Bonjoy]

Long gently overhanging on mostly small holds, edges, sidepulls and undercuts mostly. There are various good up problems too

[Ru]

No one has done that traverse in one yet. It has been tried by some hard climbers and is thought to be in the 8c+/9a (route grade) range.

Worth playing on, or is it all too hard for mortals?

Worth playing on if you climb 8c+/9a.

The Harris and I were lamenting the state of the Cornice the other day as we cleaned off Masculine Power Trip. It just took a yard brush and a bit of brushing with a scrubbing brush this year as last years cleaning job shifted most of the caked on stuff. There's some great routes there that are filthy. There's fantastic looking stuff in the 7b+/7c+ range, but very dirty. People should clean these routes off and do them, but most people can't be arsed cleaning routes and presume that it's someone else's job... If every keen Peak sport climber took it upon themselves to clean and climb just one slightly esoteric route a year rather than just climbing the standard stuff, the amount of good, doable routes in Cheedale would double.

In addition, as has been pointed out, there's lots of potential for new boulder problems in the dale. Dogs dinner, as has been mentioned, has had a lot of stuff done on it over the years by people like Ian Farrar, John Welford, me and others, but there's the left end of the Cornice and lots of other potential. It's incredible that people are still spending entire summers doing 25 year old eliminates at Stoney (as good as they are) when there's rakes of new stuff to be discovered/uncovered on unpolished new rock, with a bit of effort and vision.

[Fiend]

The Harris and I were lamenting the state of the Cornice the other day as we cleaned off Masculine Power Trip. It just took a yard brush and a bit of brushing with a scrubbing brush this year as last years cleaning job shifted most of the caked on stuff. There's some great routes there that are filthy. There's fantastic looking stuff in the 7b+/7c+ range, but very dirty. People should clean these routes off and do them, but most people can't be arsed cleaning routes and presume that it's someone else's job... If every keen Peak sport climber took it upon themselves to clean and climb just one slightly esoteric route a year rather than just climbing the standard stuff, the amount of good, doable routes in Cheedale would double.

Good call, saw you with the broom on the way out. We went to Rhubarb to warm up and Dunc did a F6b+ that was very dusty and apparently The Worst Route Ever but at least it's got chalk on it now. Also did that F6c left of Clarion which was dusty on the face but the holds were clean enough. Anyway it's a good suggestion, certainly if one is working stuff - dog the death out of it with a scrubbing brush to hand, light brush on the way back down - could easily be part of a working session...

[Bonjoy]

 Could maybe do with stashing a couple of good crag brushes under a suitable rock below the crag. Manys the time i've gone to the Cornice and kicked myself for forgetting to bring suitable cleaning tools.

[Ru]

Oh, which one were you? Sorry if I didn't say hello, we'd had a bit of a rubbish session...

[Fiend]

We had the crazy little dog with us...

Still hopefully the cleaning job will be worthwhile when others get on it...


One further thing, I find a healthy dusting of chalk on a route tends to be encouraging to get on and climb it, it certainly gets me interested because it indicates it's doable and there's holds up there. Not that anything other than climbing the route (especially in this bloody weather) needs to be done in that respect, but I think it helps.

[Teaboy]

We went to Rhubarb to warm up

We cleaned up European Female here last year (maybe the year before) and that was very good.