[route149]

 

okay so 1-4-1 middle rungs is easy for me, nice and static

1-4-3-4 is easy and the lock is rock solid

1-4-5 is easy

but freakin' 1-4-6 ain't happening.

i've just started using the opposing, lower hand (facing normal direction, not like mantling) to really push down

what else could i try to break through this plateau?   

[unclesomebody]

For a general look at campus training check the training articles on www.moonclimbing.com.

a start would be to do 1-3-5 as well, then move on to 1-3-6 if you can. However, I will also answer using the words of numerous other ukb users;

"Campusing isn't really that important at this stage of your climbing. Just go out and climb more because the gains from an improvement in technique will be greater than the gains from being able to 1-4-6".

I should also add that there is a lot of truth in that. ie. If you are having to train to do 1-4-6 then your basic strength is pretty low so general all round climbing will do wonders for everything in your climbing. Don't be suprised if in 6 months you came back to campusing and could piss 1-4-6.

_{disclaimer; by following any of the advice above you relinquish all ability to hold me accountable in any way.}

[sasscotty]

The moonclimbing website is really good for most training areas.
They also have a good videos on there somewere of randoms beasts doing campussing.

[route149]

familiar with the moon site, but appreciate the tip.

i don't agree that by doing loads of climbing i will get noticeably stronger.  my crimp and open hand strength are pretty good and i've determined that powerful, locky arm strength is disporporionately low and a factor in limiting my success on problems.

for example, even a year ago, i could do ladders without matching on the smallest campus rungs, and i've done 1-5 doubles in the past, too.

i am really looking for an analysis of what happens when you go from the 1-4 lock through to six, and how to train the weakest link in the chain.   

[Control freak]

familiar with the moon site, but appreciate the tip.

i don't agree that by doing loads of climbing i will get noticeably stronger.  my crimp and open hand strength are pretty good and i've determined that powerful, locky arm strength is disporporionately low and a factor in limiting my success on problems.

Youll never get 'proper' good crimp strength training indoors as the jolds generally arent small enough. Go climb on the slate for a year. Theres plenty of people who have got pretty strong just by climbing lots - JB wouldnt be caught dead on plastic but hes no slouch. Most people who quote arm strength as their limiting factor on problems would do well to take a step back and really look where the problems lie. Most of the time you will get big improvments from training core strength, flexibility and technique

for example, even a year ago, i could do ladders without matching on the smallest campus rungs, and i've done 1-5 doubles in the past, too.

i am really looking for an analysis of what happens when you go from the 1-4 lock through to six, and how to train the weakest link in the chain.   

One thing you can do is rain the negative movement instead ie start off with your hands on four and 6 and drop your top hand down to one IN CONTROL. This works because a muscle can lower a larger load than it can lift and therefore it puts extra stress on your muscles than just campussing

[Carnage]

i am really looking for an analysis of what happens when you go from the 1-4 lock through to six, and how to train the weakest link in the chain. 

Putting it bluntly, you pull a bit harder than if you were going to rung 5. Its that simple.

[route149]

Youll never get 'proper' good crimp strength training indoors as the jolds generally arent small enough.

I've heard this before, but lots of plastic boulderers say that's wrong - they say violently overhanging plastic/wood  gives same loading as way-small crimps on the slate or limestone headwalls.  i'm interested to hear more about why you think this is wrong - i'm not flamin you, but really interested

One thing you can do is rain the negative movement instead ie start off with your hands on four and 6 and drop your top hand down to one IN CONTROL. This works because a muscle can lower a larger load than it can lift and therefore it puts extra stress on your muscles than just campussing

that sounds like the way forward.  cheers

[route149]

you pull a bit harder than if you were going to rung 5. 

     are you a professional 'bluff yorkshireman?'    that's bluntness personified! it's like a school report that says 'must try harder'.  lash. lash. lash.  i will pull through, i will pull through.  i will ugghhhh

[Ru]

I wouldn't recommend doing negatives (dropping down) a campus board. Effective it may be, but I developed a bit of tennis elbow earlier this year from dropping down whilst doing endurance work on a campus board. I think Rich also suffered from doing this. If arm strength is what you lack train one armers but keeping open.

[account_inactive]

 

[Paul B]

i know you say your lock is solid but is it? when you release your lower hand to snatch for 6 if your lock was solid you would be able to maintain the position and definately have the height to latch 6?

(as to the plastic/wood not having small enough holds im not too sure that arguement quite works the main thing that gets neglected by climbing indoors is any kind of technique)

[route149]

if your lock was solid you would be able to maintain the position and definately have the height to latch 6?

i'm trying to visualise this without access to campus board.  can you really get to 6 from a lock on 1?  like i say, i don't mean with lower hand in the mantle position, but elbow down and hand still facing forwards.

i'll test it out next time, but what made me think 'solid', was that i can drop 4-3-1 with the upper hand while opposing hand is low.

[route149]

train one armers but keeping open.

open? what should i be doin, not doin'?

[account_inactive]

train one armers but keeping open.

open? what should i be doin, not doin'?

By open he means without twisting. 

Part of campsuing is technique.  Plenty of people I know fail to campus well through poor technique.  To be honest what's more important, being able to do 1-5-9 or have the strength to do 1-5-9?  If campusing was all you had to do to be stong then there would be more wads knocking off 8a's in this country.

[route149]

  good point, well made

fortunately i have more modest targets than 8a (u did meant font 8a, right?)

[unclesomebody]

If you can't lock off on a medium rung but say your fingers are strong then try this simple test.

1. Find a pull up bar.

2. Pull up to 90 degrees with 2 arms.

3. Take one arm off.

4. Has your body moved?

If the answer is yes then your arms are definitely "the weakest link" and you need to do more lock off training on a pull up bar.
If the answer is no then your arms are not the problem. Reaching from 4 to 6 is very easy if you can lock off.

Hope that helps. Please take my sarcastic tone with the most serious intent.

[Paul B]

as uncle says....

(and i was referring to going from 1-4 to 6 not from 1-6, now that would be a deep lock  )

[route149]

3. Take one arm off.

4. Has your body moved?

If the answer is yes then your arms are definitely "the weakest link" and you need to do more lock off training on a pull up bar.

answer to 4. easily 'yes -' the lock collapses, proving that arms are weakest link.  I can only take one arm off for a fraction of a second.  I'm working on it by doing offset pullups with an old inner tube.  the lower arm ends up completely straight and working hard, the upper arm in a solid lock.  i just do two very strong contractions for about 3 secs apiece.  is that the right way forward?

 your answer was v. helpful so thanks.  My  days will be over soon.

[Nibile]

got back to the campus yesterday, after a month or so.

could still do 158 leading with both hands, but still cant do 148. its strange.

seems like im better at pulling from a more stretched arm, than from a slightly bent arm but with deeper lock.
and: pulling from lower (4) makes the pushing of the other arm from 1 more complex.

grrrr.

tried also 147 with 4kg on, and, besides being hard it proved to be very dangerous: the wheights dangle alot when dynoing, and almost smashed my family jewels.

[route149]

tried also 147 with 4kg on, and, besides being hard it proved to be very dangerous: the wheights dangle alot when dynoing, and almost smashed my family jewels.

this is why the family jewels should always be encased in kevlar underpants when you attempt this exercise.

some practictioners prefer to use lead-lined underpants instead of weights, but these may have to be custom-made for you. 

[lorentz]

You're tying weights to a bit of tape/rope around your waist, and dangling between your legs I guess?

Could try ankle weights (although don't think these go all that heavy) or pick up a diver's belt cheap from somewhere? Lead pants can't be good for you! Would probably end up taking the lead out of yer pencil (weak laugh...)

[Houdini]

Yeah, you need to get medieval on yout trainings' ass!



Great for weighted dips, squats, and thrusts.

[route149]

Lead pants can't be good for you!

They work for me.  I finally got 1-4-6 leading with either hand, yesterday.  No big deal in the scheme of things, but great for me.