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Cheedale Cornice Conditions (Read 135082 times)

Bonjoy

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#225 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
April 27, 2013, 06:15:20 pm
From experience what happens next is this. Everyone waits for someone else to do the cleaning work. The spring dry snap passed with nowt getting done because it's still dirty, then it pisses it down all summer.  ;D
...or someone proves me wrong.  :jab:

Fidders

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#226 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
April 27, 2013, 10:26:56 pm
On passing the cornice earlier, I went to the top of Powerplant. I can confirm it is all dry, but filthy of course. I'll hopefully get back there in the next week or two with a decent size brush. But otherwise it is all starting to look quite promising.

PetePostlethwaite

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#227 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 01, 2013, 10:12:41 am
Went down Cheedale yesterday and gave Powerplant a scrub.

Still a few smeggy holds but it's OK on the whole.

Get to it...

Fidders

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#228 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 01, 2013, 10:34:48 am
Brilliant, cheers Pete!

petejh

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#229 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 03, 2013, 02:59:20 pm
Any updates? Thinking of heading over Monday.

Ru

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#230 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 05, 2013, 05:58:18 pm
Anyone been today? Specifically, is Bricktop dry?

dobbin

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#231 Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 05, 2013, 09:15:32 pm
Yes, and no. You know the hold has broken right? Bottom bit wet until overlap, probably ok thereafter. People on routes from martial rightwards, lower wall of anything left wet, but getting there

kc

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#232 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 05, 2013, 09:27:20 pm
Which hold???
« Last Edit: May 05, 2013, 09:37:34 pm by kc »

dobbin

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#233 Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 05, 2013, 10:32:18 pm
The big chipped crimp thing on the bottom wall, on the bit it shares with nemesis. Sure there will be a way to climb it without

abarro81

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#234 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 05, 2013, 10:34:49 pm
The skiad one for LH that you go out to then up off? Would be bloody hard without that surely?

dobbin

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#235 Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 06, 2013, 08:32:53 am
Naah, it's the right hand grifter that you use to get out left to the one I think you're on about. Certainly will be a bit harder, yes

kc

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#236 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 06, 2013, 09:56:54 am
Bugger, wonder when that broke. Was there any chalk on it? I doubt anyone was on it last year!
Was there any remaining bits lying around on the ground? I thought that would take some hard pulling to take that hold off. No ones been down there this winter with their axes have they?

dobbin

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#237 Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 06, 2013, 08:22:03 pm

petejh

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#238 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 06, 2013, 11:12:58 pm
No ones been down there this winter with their axes have they?

Was there today, but minus axes. Although during an absent moment I admit to thinking how similar the cornice looks to some bolted M-style crags in Switzerland.
Lots of dry routes right of Martial.

Ru

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#239 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 07, 2013, 08:26:54 am
Still pretty wet on left half of crag but might dry with a few more dry days. Saw the rock scar on nemesis, but can't work out which hold has gone. Both the right hand 'launch' crimp and the big left hand incut 'catch' crimp seemed to be there.

kc

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#240 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 07, 2013, 09:07:45 am
October 2011 from the looks of this beast : http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=17354.msg333318#msg333318
So you are actually talking about a completely different hold then if that is your source. If you read on it transpires to be a hold just off the deck on Monumental.
I saw Roy getting past this section at the end of that season. Although it is a bit harder there is the knee bar rest to come so won't change the grade at all.

dobbin

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#241 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 08, 2013, 08:33:10 am
Ah shit, well i don't know then. perhaps we are all at cross purposes? I thought it looked like the rock scar WAS the right hand 'launch' hold, but if you can see it - then that's great! Especially if Roy was able to climb past it, although - bearing in mind who we are speaking about and their capability, then perhaps we shouldn't read too much into that!

Davo

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#242 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 08, 2013, 08:56:12 am
Was down there yesterday and it is looking much better in general. Left hand section still wet but routes around clarion call are dry but dirty. Clarion Call itself is now clean. Bored of the lies got an ascent and looked clean. Chalk and people on PowerPlant.

Went on K3 with another guy and cleaned it all up - initially a bit damp but now in good nick. Don't know how this weather will affect it though...

Dave

Ru

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#243 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 08, 2013, 09:27:39 am
Sounds like theres two holds gone on Nemesis, one close to the deck, one at the jumpy bit. The jumpy bit one didnt look to be crucial.

Bored of the lies is clean, i gave it a scrub on monday.

kc

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#244 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 08, 2013, 10:06:49 am
The only real hold that anybody used was the one left of the first bolt. It was a good layaway that most people would grab with their right hand and cross through into the groove to the big undercut or the Vulcan hold. There are quite a few alternative options left anyway. The little flakes higher up were the sort of thing people would try to use without the correct beta or in plain desperation!


timlar

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#245 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 10, 2013, 08:50:14 pm
Cleaned up cordless tonight if anyone wants to get on it :-)

kc

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#246 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 10, 2013, 10:36:37 pm
Gave Devonshire a brush yesterday. Powerplant & K3 covered in chalk. R&P very dry too. Everything left of Martial Music wet. I suspect the keen and willing could make it up the slightly damp start of Roof Warrior.

timlar

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#247 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 12, 2013, 06:28:49 pm
Martial music is dry and clompletely clean now bar a bit of smeg in one pocket, hats off to mark for cleaning el crime, great moves on the lower wall, get on it whilst its still got his wires in the top, hoping to clean up Fay later in the week.

mark20

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#248 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 13, 2013, 09:54:51 pm
Was down there this evening, mostly still good except the undercuts are starting to seep on K3, also some the upper wall is getting dripped on a bit. Powerplant still fine, and the right hand side (Cordless etc) has surprisingly little run off. Martial, Clarion, Big Zipper, Bored, Oujiboard, are all dry and clean

willackers

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#249 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 13, 2013, 10:04:32 pm
Does anyone know if Devonshire Arms has lost any holds? Has it had meany ascents recently?

 

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