Cheedale Cornice Conditions (Read 127188 times)

AlistairB · June 17, 2014, 03:56:19 pm

Quote from: nai on June 17, 2014, 02:44:51 pm

Dropped in for a quick look today, the only fully dry looking routes are Unleashing rightwards.
Leftward to around Martial Music is dry in places with streaks and seeps.
Left of that is pretty much blanket wetness.

Mostly dry forecast for a few weeks so maybe there's hope for the middle section

I was just wondering about this myself, cheers for the update. C'mon weather!

Gus · June 20, 2014, 11:36:25 am

If you're psyched for routes on the central section you could do a lot worse than heading down on a rest day or whatever, stick clipping/jumaring up and giving them a good old scrub. Once the winter spooge/ dust is off they'll dry up a lot quicker!!

Ru · June 20, 2014, 12:00:00 pm

Quote from: Gus on June 20, 2014, 11:36:25 am

If you're psyched for routes on the central section you could do a lot worse than heading down on a rest day or whatever, stick clipping/jumaring up and giving them a good old scrub. Once the winter spooge/ dust is off they'll dry up a lot quicker!!

I agree with this. Some years the only routes to dry properly are the ones that are cleaned. If you're psyched, dedicate a few hours with a scrubbing brush and some old clothes.

Bonjoy · June 20, 2014, 12:36:23 pm

You boys keep telling them pigs to fly.

AlistairB · June 22, 2014, 12:55:21 pm

A lot of things getting quite close as of yesterday. People reported Unleashing very nearly dry and the other RHS routes looked fine. I scrubbed Powerplant and actually managed to redpoint it, no wetness left after a good clean but some muck and damp on features you don't use. Looked like a few of the other routes on that bit to the right of PP like DA were also possible. Big zipper maybe a bit damp in the top overlap but might just need a scrub. Ouijaboard & Doetevsky looked at least workable. Martial looked dry whilst Clarion maybe still a little damp at the top bulge but again it might be just muck.

LHS generally still quite wet but drying out. Cry of Despair looked like there might just be a dry path through the wet but I didn't go up.

Most things need a good clean so take brushes but there's certainly stuff to go at. Conditions were actually primo yesterday, low temps and humidity. Fingers crossed it stays dry

.

Gus · June 23, 2014, 03:27:32 pm

Stick that in yer pipe Nonjoy!

Bonjoy · June 23, 2014, 08:00:45 pm

Splendid, that was my hope all along. Classic good cop /bad cop. Someone was bound to react to one or the other

kc · June 24, 2014, 02:09:41 pm

Powerplant gets cleaned every year.
The hard heroic work starts when you get stuck into a route with dodgy gear and 3+ years of gloop.

Wil · June 27, 2014, 11:13:04 am

As Alistair says, drying up. Unleashing and rightwards all good yesterday. Powerplant, oujiboard, clarion call and martial music looked good, armistice day also looked climbable. Big zipper bulge still wet and lhs very wet still, cry of despair close, but big undercut near the start is soaked.

mark20 · July 01, 2014, 10:47:24 pm

Martial Music is dry and has a bit of chalk on it. Clarion Call dry and chalked. Armstice & Whose Line both dry, the latter needs a good brush. Zipper and Bored dry, can't remember if they were chalked/cleaned or not though sorry. Oujibored dry and cleaned. Cosmo & Cordless seeing some action.
I cleaned the gunk off Old Man River, it need another going over in a few days when it drys off properly but will hopefully be a go-er by the weekend/early next week

Sidehaas · July 02, 2014, 10:15:22 pm

Bored had a little chalk but probably only one ascent. Apparently the top break is now dry but a bit dirty, just needs a scrub. We also cleaned succubus.
Nice one doing old man.

Gus · July 03, 2014, 11:53:10 pm

Gave K3 a right good scrub this evening and all the holds a decent chalking. With another day or two it should be climbable by the strong!
If you're psyched then get yourselves on it, give it some more chalk and take a decent brush. Every little helps!!

Wouldn't have fancied Old Man River though, bit of chalk on it but it looked minging!

Gus · July 05, 2014, 08:15:56 pm

K3 and Powerplant in mint condition today. Also gave "Rapid city" a brushing and chalking (anyone got any beta for this??). Well psyched for brushing scenes, more rewarding than climbing!!

mark20 · July 06, 2014, 06:44:18 pm

Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)
Cry of Despair undercut looked about dry. Nemesis just about dry, but smeggy low down
Lots of action at The Nook too

Mirf · July 06, 2014, 09:11:09 pm

Well done to the cornice scrubbers, fair few routes to go at now, though the crag was pretty empty today. I'll try and get down there with my brush soon too.

nai · July 07, 2014, 10:58:23 am

Quote from: mark20 on July 06, 2014, 06:44:18 pm

Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)

Is this the big reach into a LH gaston, match and move out left?

highrepute · July 07, 2014, 08:33:42 pm

Quote from: mark20 on July 06, 2014, 06:44:18 pm

Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)
Cry of Despair undercut looked about dry. Nemesis just about dry, but smeggy low down
Lots of action at The Nook too

did this last year. can't really remember but something like LH on a gaston, awkward fall into a match on the gaston. reach out left to something.

Bonjoy · July 08, 2014, 08:22:03 am

Quote from: Gus on July 05, 2014, 08:15:56 pm

Also gave "Rapid city" a brushing and chalking (anyone got any beta for this??). Well psyched for brushing scenes, more rewarding than climbing!!

All I can remember is it being ok for 8a once you figure the crux. It was mostly on undercuts just using the slopers to go again for better holds (sorry can't remember more detail than that). Could do with the loose flake in the top roof gluing so you could top it out as per the original ascent.

nai · July 08, 2014, 02:40:51 pm

Quote from: mark20 on July 06, 2014, 06:44:18 pm

Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)

Just been on this, great job cleaning it, so here goes:

From hands in top of flake, RH out to undercut in overlap then LH to crimp just above. Sort feet then LH to gaston and RH to crimp. Move feet again so that LF is high and weight is on that & RH. Bump LH up to worse part of gaston then put RF on ticked (not mine) edges just R of groove and bring RH into best part of the hold below LH. Reach over for LH sidepull then step RF through to a low foothold and RH to obvious hold above. LF steps through to big foothold and take LH sidepull then into finishing groove of TWTR.

Didn't get it today unfortunately, could do with finding a shake before the top bit.

nai · July 11, 2014, 04:48:30 pm

Loads dry & cleaned now, even stuff on the LHS looking there or thereabouts.

Might be talking to myself on this now but I brushed off some more footholds at the crux today and found a better way, might not work for the tall or long-legged.

Quote from: nai on July 08, 2014, 02:40:51 pm

Quote from: mark20 on July 06, 2014, 06:44:18 pm
Old Man River dry and climbable now, if you can figure out how to get past the last bolt (any beta please?)

From hands in top of flake, RH out to undercut in overlap then LH to crimp just above. Sort feet then LH to gaston and RH to crimp. Move feet again so that LF is high and weight is on that & RH. Bump LH up to worse part of gaston then put RF on diagonal edge near RH so that you're cammed in between LH & RF, now bring RH quite easily into best part of the hold below LH .....

Or just LH in top of flake, feet high and RH straight to sidepull like another fella did today.

mark20 · July 11, 2014, 09:49:41 pm

Thanks guys, found it OK to match the gaston with high feet. Conditions on it felt much better this eve so that probably helped. Decent route, might give the direct finish a scrub next time.
Amazing how quickly the routes to the right of this have dried back since this time last week. They all need a good scrub mind. I noticed that Armstice Day has chalk on it now too, but Whose Line still looks dirty.

mark20 · July 17, 2014, 11:34:01 pm

I cleaned Taylor Made this evening, a few damp/smeggy holds in the back of the roof.
Nemesis & Armblaster looked dry but dirty.
Jug Jockey looked dry but dirty
Roof Warrior getting cleaned and climbed.
Cry of Despair cleaned and chalked, and re-bolted this eve (thanks Alastair)
That was the River, Rapid City, This is the Sea all dry and chalked.
Old Man River seeing lots of action - direct finish needs cleaning.
Up The River Without a Paddle is dry but needs a good clean (and is well worth the effort)
All routes rightwards to War Memorial are dry but need cleaning. Une Crime Passionel looked like it had some chalk on it, but needs a quick brush.
All the 7s in the middle section are clean and chalked, and busy

groovedog · July 21, 2014, 02:53:11 pm

Any current knowledge of the conditions on the Cornice after Saturday's deluge, Thanks.

Drew · July 21, 2014, 06:56:53 pm

Check out @ BrianSmacks's Tweet: https://twitter.com/BrianSmacks/status/490929539405873153

SEDur · July 21, 2014, 09:15:04 pm

All the stuff to the left was covered in sludge, but there were chalked hand holds. Stuff further right was all dry and being climbed, but Sunday was very humid.

I started to brush the footholds on 'this is the sea', but it was like pushing mud around. All handholds felt in reasonable knick for the conditions though.

If i had time to start cleaning the left...