UKBouldering.com

Cheedale Cornice Conditions (Read 128605 times)

kc

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 379
  • Karma: +42/-0
#250 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 13, 2013, 11:15:06 pm
I don't think it has lost any holds. It just has not got enough of them. For me it is a grade harder than all the other 8a+'s and should really revert back to its origanal grade of 8b. I don't know exactly why and who downgraded it in the first place!
I know Paul B did it in 2011 and found it ok.

Doylo

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6694
  • Karma: +442/-7
#251 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 14, 2013, 08:01:09 am
Sam Cattell did it year before last and thought 8b.

Gareth Parry

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 30
  • Karma: +4/-0
    • http://www.boulderuk.com
#252 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 14, 2013, 08:15:03 am
We (me and the Weasel) did the 2nd and 3rd ascents of this i think. Ben was also trying it at the time and had this jumping sequence which was nails. We used some cheeky high heel. I just remember it being bouldery, though that is soooo long ago. Both first go. We thought 8a+ at the time...peak grades are hard arent they?

willackers

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 870
  • Karma: +126/-0
    • Vimeo
#253 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 14, 2013, 09:31:52 am
Thanks for that.

It was a mate who was trying it, he seemed to think an undercut at the crux had come off or gotten smaller since he first tried it a few years back. He walked up the top section. Just sounds like it's got a brick crux then.

 :strongbench:

timlar

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 25
  • Karma: +3/-1
#254 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 14, 2013, 04:56:23 pm
Met two fellas in the car park today who said it was seeping again (mid section, K3 area) and top of clarion was soaked.....  Not good as it was looking okay last night as mark did bored.  Was going to have a look but ran out of time and it was raining hard again!

Ru

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1973
  • Karma: +120/-0
#255 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
May 26, 2013, 09:34:45 pm
Had a quick look this afternoon - patches of damp on most things, some stuff soaked.

Peanuts

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 76
  • Karma: +2/-2
#256 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 05, 2013, 09:02:31 am
Checked out the Cornice last night and can confirm the it is knackered, couldn't see one climable route, even the far right hand routes (Cosmo etc) affected by seepage/streaks and the centre and left hand routes should only be attempted in a canoe :(

dk

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 33
  • Karma: +4/-0
  • C'est tres bon
#257 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 06, 2013, 04:33:27 pm
Anyone know if two tier is fairing any better?

AlistairB

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 153
  • Karma: +11/-0
#258 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 06, 2013, 04:40:07 pm
Two Tier basically fine last night. The odd slightly damp pocket but perfectly climbable.

dk

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 33
  • Karma: +4/-0
  • C'est tres bon
#259 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 06, 2013, 11:24:54 pm
cheers :)

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 878
  • Karma: +128/-0
#260 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 11, 2013, 10:00:42 pm
Did the round this evening-
Cordless Madness rightwards looked dry. Stuff to the left looked fairly damp.
Powerplant dry-ish, top wall looks OK, but a bit smeggy in places low down. Looked workable.
Bored/Zipper stuff very wet in the middle section.
Clarion Call, undercuts wet around the first roof but OK other than that.
Martial Music looked surprisingly dry, perhaps a bit smeggy around one or two holds but definately looked climbable.
Everything further left pretty wet.


abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4325
  • Karma: +349/-26
#261 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 16, 2013, 08:28:30 pm
Looked in on the way back from 2 tier today. Generally getting there - clarion/martial looked ok, bored looked maybe ok maybe a bit damp up high. k3, powerplant etc looked ok to work but maybe a bit damp to do, hard to tell though. On the left most stuff was damp but gran techo looked almost doable. I suspect if it stays dry this week it'll be good to go next weekend.

Peanuts

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 76
  • Karma: +2/-2
#262 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 19, 2013, 09:43:08 am
Was down Cheedale yesterday and can report that the Cornice is now ..... back in play ! Well, mostly, everything baring a couple of routes right of Martial Music is essentially dry if a little dirty. Left of Martial Music  there is the odd route that is climbable, for example, Roof Warrior looked pretty dry but the routes arround it were still goping.  Get to it!

As for the rest of Cheedale  ... it's all dry and reasonably clean, the odd damp pocket here and there but even long wall is looking pretty good.

jimmykay

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 41
  • Karma: +1/-0
#263 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 19, 2013, 11:43:00 am
Apologies for being naive. Weather looks cack on Sunday. So I just wondered whether the routes are still climbable in variable weather? Don't mind getting a bit damp on the walk in.


Jim

Three Nine

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1305
  • Karma: +136/-55
#264 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 19, 2013, 11:51:16 am
Yep they're mostly fine in the rain, steep enough with capping roofs

dobbin

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3708
  • Karma: +147/-9
  • Buoux 7a
#265 Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 19, 2013, 02:55:43 pm
You should be fine beast.

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 878
  • Karma: +128/-0
#266 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 21, 2013, 09:22:12 am
Succubus, Martial Music, Clarion Call, Big Zipper and Bored of the Lies all got ascents yesterday.
Hopefully it will survive the weekends rain

AlistairB

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 153
  • Karma: +11/-0
#267 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
June 26, 2013, 01:56:26 pm
All looking pretty good last night. Some wetness on the left but apparently it looked dryer than the weekend when people were doing Roof Warrior & Cry of Despair so I guess those should be fine. Middle and RHS all dry just a bit dusty in places. Powerplant got done twice (not by me!) so should be cleanish.

Gus

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 313
  • Karma: +87/-0
  • Smash It In!
#268 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 05, 2013, 11:01:47 am
Was pretty good last night.

Stuff left of roof warrior drying out but will need a big clean (the sooner they're cleaned the sooner they'll be in good nick, especially with this weekend's weather looking so good!)

Take a big brush!!!

abarro81

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4325
  • Karma: +349/-26
#269 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 07, 2013, 10:56:43 pm
Central 7s rightwards all dry/dryish and most things have now been cleaned to at least some extent. ON the left Techno Prisoners/Gran Techo and Roof warrior both dry/clean enough to do, just some dampness, cry of despair was getting some action today though still had some wetness. Nemesis etc getting there but need a proper clean.

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#270 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 09, 2013, 08:54:45 am
I took one for the team last night and started cleaning Nemesis. I wasn’t climbing so had to solo stick clip it, unfortunately after abbing down I realised it was too steep for me to get in to clean the bottom bit! But I’ve made a start on the top wall and the holds in the roof. There was a tiny tiny bit of spooge in one hold but its 99% dry. Although I may fetch down an extended broom and try to give the lower section a general scrub from the ground, I’m stuck into something else at the minute so probably won’t be back up the route to properly finish the job soon, hopefully someone else will.

Worth noting if anyone does go up there that the bolt in the roof could do with tightening up (M10 nut), also that the 2nd to last bolt is of a vintage variety and although there’s probably nowt wrong with it it could do with updating. Again I am happy to do these myself but only when I start trying the route which could be a while yet.

T_B

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3095
  • Karma: +150/-5
#271 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 09, 2013, 09:20:57 am
How sweaty was it down there last night Nige?

Nigel

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1755
  • Karma: +165/-1
#272 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 09, 2013, 10:50:24 am
Hard to say actually Tom as I wasn’t climbing. Lets just say it wasn’t bad, in that it wasn’t condensed at all, rock was bone. However it wasn’t good, in that there was not a breath of wind and it was just straight up hot. For me personally think it would be too sweaty for a move I find really hard, but I guess it depends what you want try? Looking at forecast, tomorrow and Thursday look slightly cooler.

mark20

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 878
  • Karma: +128/-0
#273 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 09, 2013, 11:47:04 pm
I counted 28 people down there at one point this evening.
Roof Warrior, Cry of Despair and That Was the River all getting climbed, Goldfish got cleaned & climbed, as did Crime Une Passionel which is now in a pretty good state, definately onsightable. Apparently Fey has been climbed but will need a good clean if you intend to lead it - I might get round to this on Thurs. War Memorial and pretty much everything else further right is clean and chalked

Kingy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1683
  • Karma: +77/-2
#274 Re: Cheedale Cornice Conditions
July 12, 2013, 07:57:12 pm
Had a crag inspection last night. All usual suspects on the right were chalked and clean. K3 is cleaned up nicely. R and P was very dirty but is now seeing some traffic so hopefully can only improve.

Further left is a different story and although mostly dry, the crag appears to be covered in 2 years' worth of dried up gunk. Jug Jockey looked very dirty as did Taylor Made. 

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal