[bikerboy]

Hi All,

1st post from me - relatively new to the sport. Have just done a 2-day 'Moving out' course at PYB. However the minimalist amount of equipment, start up outlay and quality of workout from Bouldering all appeal more for now.

So - any of you guys in the vicinity and able to show me some sites? Or recommend.

Have already got one for Windmil Hill near Stroud that I would like to visit.

Am also planning to head off on my bike early-mid July and try some basic stuff around Mid wales and the Peaks.

Thanks for any advice.
 
Mart

[webbo]

buying the welsh and the peak bouldering guides would be a useful start.

[Tommy]

Your title suggests that you might be from Bath? Although you ask nothing of it the post. I lived in Bath for a while some years back and there's actually quite a bit of decent limestone bouldering in the region if you're knowledgeable about the area. Number 1 is Sally-in-the-woods about 20 quality problems (up to V9) and 20-30 poor problems. Number 2 - Also beneath the Pepperpot there's bits and pieces lurking around. Number 3 - El Primo - although it a secret so I can't possibly tell you....

[Timatron]

I'm Bath born and bred.

Don't bother visiting Sally in the woods etc because if you're new to the sport you won't be able to do any of the decent problems there.

It's been said before, but the best place to boulder in Bath is at the Bristol climbing centre.  Head down there a couple of nights a week and go travelling at the weekend.

[bikerboy]

 

Thanks for the info guys...have toyed with a jaunt over to Undercover Rock in Bristol..but had imagined it could be a bit 'elitist' over there!.

Also was a bit concerned about parking the bike in the vicinity for fear of it being pushed over (St. Werburghs/St.Paul's area)...although that's a bit prejudice of me to be fair.

Where exactly is 'Sally in the Woods' and 'The Pepperpot'? A GR would be useful!

Got to hand it to you lot...you're more forthcoming than they've been across on www.rocktalk.co.uk

 

[SA Chris]

. Number 1 is Sally-in-the-woods about 20 quality problems (up to V9) and 20-30 poor problems.

Is this the new name for the access restricted Ba****rd ?

[Duma]

Wouldn't worry about elitism @ UR - in my experience it's very friendly, if a little crowded during the evenings. Good probs, reset often, over a wide grade range... There's often Motorbikes outside the place and I've yet to see any on their sides - would say that's lack of experience of the area colouring your judgment. St Pauls can be intimidating, but if you don't look like a victim... St Werburghs, despite neighboring St Pauls, has a much friendlier atmosphere and is one of the most interesting parts of the city.

[Tommy]

It is the access restricted Ba****rd? Er yes, probably - I've seen the owners of the land up there a few times and chatted to them about what I'm doing and they're always cool with it as long as I don't start camping, building fires etc.

Anyone else done the full lip traverse at the far right end of SITWs? Flipping amazing problem.

Funny note aside... There's a little layby up there and I came across a certain well know Bath judge having a  in his car!!

I have spent quite a few years now trying that roof crack at the far right end - 'ard is all I can say.

[SA Chris]

Anyone else done the full lip traverse at the far right end of SITWs? Flipping amazing problem.

Is that the cave next to the basin chipped into the rock? If so it looks really good, rock quality is a bit poor. Mike and I first had a look at it when we were doing the initial ivy removal of the upper walls, but neither of us ever got anywhere on it.

[Tommy]

Ah! Another person who's done a bit of the hard work at SITW! I frist started cleaning everything up there about 6/7yrs ago - was a bit of a mission to say the least. It was Jon Page from Adrenalin High who gave me the word on the place. The cave with the traverse is about 20ft wide, 15ft deep, 5-6ft high at the lip and right at the far end of the crag. Also has (at one stage) a fallen tree resting against the start of the traverse. Took a while to get it as the end of that traverse gets pretty slopey 

[SA Chris]

Yup, Mike (surname?) and I removed the ivy curtain from the wall to the left of cave with the trees at the top. Is the ivy showing any signs of recovering? not been there since I left bristol at the end of 2002.

[Tommy]

Nah, it's all ok really - I've been going back sporadically over the last few years to clean up and try various things. There's quite a few problems been gone in the last couple years by the looks of the chalk marks. I think there's always enough people who know about the area to keep the gardening under control! Any time you're down there give me a PM and might be in the area (normally once every 2months) and I'll show you a primo buildering location which has loads of nice eliminates and gnarly traverses. 

[SA Chris]

Will do, thanks, but unlikely to be in the next year or so.

[Timatron]

I've done everything there I think.  I am aware that it's no great location, but it's not very far away from my house.  Interestingly, all the problems have been given grades by a Britsih Team Climber (possibly now a former team member).  The long traverse over the cave at the far end was given V9.  This problem took me sveral visits, but once I had it wired I could and still can flash it every time.  Also, the straight up problem with the dyno off a mono at the other end of the crag was given V10.  I can only describe this problem as "a bit of a slag".  This problem took me quite a few visits.  Said Team GB climber did it in fewer goes than I had made visits. There's a brilliant roof problem which was cleared and sent much more recently than much of the other stuff.  This was given a V8.  There's seriously no good holds on it.  You spend the whole time squeezing your hands together and using wierd footwork.

The two boulders below the road also have some good steep climbing on them, and one of the most enormous and difficult traverses you'll ever see.

I've also spoken to the land owners.  They have no problem with people climbing there.  However, they didn't want any articles published about the place in guidebooks or magazines for fear of attracting hordes.  Unlikely, but you've got to respect their wishes.

If you ever are stuck in Bath or near by you might want to visit.  Although you'd probably do better to go to UCR.

[Tommy]

Ah right..... well, if you can "flash" the traverse - get get stuck into the roof crack!! Some people are so lazy..... Glad that someone else gives it the same grade as me so I know I'm not using some muppet sequence.

Also - didn't know anything about the boulders under the road! Where are they exactly? How far down in the woods from the road are they? I love a good traverse....

What's the roof V8 problem you're talking about? I cleaned a lot of the new stuff there back in the day and did quite a FAs (not that anyone cares in a place like SITW). So would interested in a new cleaned problem.

[Timatron]

I meant that the traverse is one of those problems that once you get the sequence wired it stops being too challenging.  I've got quite far with the roof crack, but, even after some cleaning efforts, so much dust falls into your eyes everytime you try it that I just can't be bothered anymore.

To find the roof problem you go left from the layby, and it's up on the right after the big slab, but before the big free standing boulder.  It starts on a round boss on the left hand side of the boulder, shimmys under the roof, and ends on the jugs on the face of the right hand side.  Some of the moves are quite tasty.

To find the boulders below the road, travel down the hill towards Bath and take the first turning on the left.  The turning is mighty sharp so take it easy.  Travel along this single track lane for maybe 3/4 of a mile and you'll see a wooden fence and gate on your left.  Park up here and you'll be able to see the first, very large boulder.  30 metres behind is another roof formed of a single slab of limestone jutting out over some other boulders.  Quite a unique feature I'd say.

The large boulder has 3 or 4 problems coming from the back of the roof and up the face.  The best is the obvious one that uses slopers and a side pull.  I'd give this V9 if I hadn't seen someone who could no way climb V9 do it, he was quite tall though which might have helped.  The traverse starts on the left hand side arete and then thugs it's way up the hill until you run out of rock.  The boulder behind has one problem that traverse left to right the break under the slab.  When the break runs out, make a desperate slap for the right hand side of the slab and get round it.

[bikerboy]

Got me shoes (no mat as yet) so went and had a little jaunt across yesterday.

Found the slab and the large single free standing boulder. Can't boast that I managed to do anything much in either case - except get myself of the ground and put a small sequence of moves together.

With the large slab, I was practising a few moves utilising the large crack but I'm supposing a trvaerse is the problem?

As for the boulder and judging by the remnants of chalk on it I'm guesssing a seated start is intended to the right and underneath the aret with the intention to move your self up and around the aret (have I got that right?). Well couldn't manage the seated start. so again practised some smearing and just trying to put a little sequence of moves together to the left of the aret.

Still - enjoyed my first outing (and was relieved that there was nobody else around to ridicule my firts efforts!!!!!)

Probably take a look at the lower side of the road and even UCR later this week.

Thanks to Timatron again for spot on directions and advice.

[SA Chris]

The traverse (either way but nicer going L to R) of the front of the freestanding boulder is a good one to work on if you haven't got a mat. Also theres a long lip traverse just behind it that's good value.

[bikerboy]

As for the traverse from L to R on the free standing boulder..ghad another visit today. Beyond me at this stage I have to admit.  I could see the remnants of chalk but be buggered if I could get the first move sussed.

That said I made some ground on the large slab today, although again was unable to get the satrt from the l/h edge running to a slap at the top it apppeared ( again going from fresh chalk deposits this weekend)

Tried to locate the boulders on the lower side of the road...but got all the way to Warleigh Manor without finding the wooden gate. Several gates along the way like but nothing obvious from the road.  Did you say the boulder was visible from the road?

Cheers


Mart

[bikerboy]

Been across to UCR in Bristol today - just to let you know that the bouldering area is closed off for renovation works for 2 weeks.

So all I was left with (for my very first visit) was the small area upstairs beyond the lockers (on the sloping wall).  How did I get on?

PANTS. Didn't help that some hard as nails white haired and bearded old soul turned up while I was there, stripped off his tee and flashed the 'Yellow' route through to a finish (No. 40) by the time I was leaving. 
How did I get on - well only managed (No. 6)

CRAAP eh.

So not the most rewarding of first visits that.

[SA Chris]

If you are starting out, ignore the makred probs and make up your own as you go on. The makred probs are usually set up for more advanced levels. It will only make you depressed, hence the

[Simon S]

Don't worry the yellow circuit is hardly the easiest one they've ever had there. Its a pity given the closure of the rest of the bouldering.
The lower bouldering area at SITW is just past Warleigh Manor as i remember it.
Give me a shout next time your heading down.

[ben]

Tommy - the main boulder below the road is best approached from below. Fork off right as you come up the road towards the main layby and its visible from the road on the left when you're by the entrance to warleigh manor. The 'garlic meadow' as its called has a some good steep easy problems (v2-v5ish) plus Tim has done that big traverse and some harder stuff through the roof. Makes a pleasant change from the top boulders as its mostly slopers. This lower section of wood has new owners (different to above) but they seemed quite happy once they'd grasped why  i was brushing their boulder with a scrubbing brush..

Chris - the roof lip traverse is in a different spot to the carved font thing, lower down the hillside and across further..   and Raine is the surname you're looking for.  I actually met mike for the first time when we were both at bathford cutting ivy off/cleaning the big boulder at the LH end, think that was in 2001

[ben]

bikerboy - that was probably my chalk from sunday evening
re: some easier stuff there > as you say the left arete of the slabby boulder, plus the central crack are good. on the main boulder further left, have a play round the RH arete but the traverse is quite tricky and liable to hurt beginners fingers as the pockets are sharp. up behind this boulder is a good slopey traverse + some easier stuff further left.
Or .. when you walk up from the layby, turn right on the main track, past a shed and you'll see a long low traverse up to the left. this is a bit easier.

all of these problems benefit from a brushing with a soft nylon brush to remove the bits of wood/soil..

[a dense loner]

bath indeed. give me a shout when you're up here next ben

[Palomides]

... the main boulder below the road is best approached from below. Fork off right as you come up the road towards the main layby and its visible from the road on the left when you're by the entrance to warleigh manor. ...

ben, have you seen this? http://www.woodlands.co.uk/par-manor-wood.htm

Looks like some of that woodland is available for sale 

(Although the map at the bottom shows a "rock" outside the for sale bit)

[ben]

palomides - i hadn't seen that, but have seen the signs there. Obviously no-one thinks the 'garlic meadow traverse' is worth £30000, can't think why..

dense - mail me (ben@mendipclimb.org.uk), am off to france/pyrenees/alps for 4 months on 1st august, need some bouldering spot recommendations

[SA Chris]

Chris - the roof lip traverse is in a different spot to the carved font thing, lower down the hillside and across further..   and Raine is the surname you're looking for.  I actually met mike for the first time when we were both at bathford cutting ivy off/cleaning the big boulder at the LH end, think that was in 2001

That's right, the year of the big dig. You OK? Been in the water much?

[bikerboy]

The lower bouldering area at SITW is just past Warleigh Manor as i remember it.
Give me a shout next time your heading down.
[/quote]

Simon, I was planning to head across this weekend again. Though have to admit after a visit to Haresfield Beacon today and a bit of a play on the traverse up there (well parts of it anyway!) - the tendons are feeling a little tender!!

Prefer late afternoon if you're around? Can e-mail me on martewright@yahoo.com

By the way if anyone spots a Black Cateye Cycle computer (well the handlebar mounted unit of it) it'd be mine - fell of while working my way through the undergrowth (whilst I was trying to find a shortcut out of the woods and back to bathford!!!!!!!!!!!)

Finding it is worth at least 2x

[SA Chris]

Though have to admit after a visit to Haresfield Beacon today and a bit of a play on the traverse up there (well

Did you find the traverse below the main one? It's just below a large tree (oak?) nice moves on better rock than the main traverse section.

[ben]

That's right, the year of the big dig. You OK? Been in the water much?

am fine, haven't been to bathford much and think i've forgotten how to surf...  been climbing a lot though and am off to france for 4 months in a couple of weeks - with 3 weeks on the west coast to start, so an ideal time to get back into it!

[bikerboy]

Did you find the traverse below the main one? It's just below a large tree (oak?) nice moves on better rock than the main traverse section.
[/quote]

Thanks Chris! - have to admit I didn't venture that far. Certainly had enough to pass some time on the main traverse.

Looks like I'll be paying another visit soon then!!!