[Bonjoy]

 I like to refer to a poor side-foot toe scum as a Rand Skank

[r-man]

I'll teach you how to climb. But first you have to learn the hand shapes. Here are some basic shapes:

-Normal holding on - I call this the Death Claw. It's how I'd kill someone with my bare hands. Don't practice this one.
-Holding the underneath of something - Practice by grabbing someone's balls. I call it the Easy Squeezy. There are variations, such as the Cheesy Squeezy and the Pleased to Squeeze Thee and the Extra Squirty.
-Holding two opposing sidewards holds - I call this the Surgeon. Imagine you have to open someone's rib cage. Only practice this on people who won't mind.
-Holding a big slopey hold - Imagine you're climbing an Elephants bum. I call this the African Adventure. Practice on large fat people. If you drop a mars bar in front of them, they'll be in the ideal position. They might not like it, but then again, it might be what they've waiting for all their lives.

Now go climb!

[Greg C]

A few from "The Man"...

Push pull pressure toe smears - 
Crux loop - 
Inverted roof slopers - 
Levered edges -   

[moose]

Noticed that "rockover" doesn't have a definition, may I suggest "the dwarf's revenge".

One term in popular use, that I have never heard the same definition twice for, is "guppy".  Most frequently applied to a kinda bent-wristed slopery pull around a protuberance - often on those hemispherical slopers at walls.  Anyone care to give a more precise, universally accepted definition....

Can't help but feel that this the sort of lexicographical discussion that should be conducted in the study of the palatial Oxford offices of the "Bouldering Commission": torn-fingered stickmen nestling deep within their huge armchairs, the whiff of rich mahogany heavy in the air, a few glasses of brandy driving absurdly rancorous consultations of the blood-stained vellum pages of the 1893 Honley Area bouldering guide.

[Pantontino]

Did you just drop a casual reference to the mighty Honley Quarry?

I spent a carless summer (1990 I think) putting up 'classic' routes on that 'magnificent' crag. I believe someone has traversed the base of the Main Wall - is this true?

[Bonjoy]

 Guppy - Boss or pinch held like a gaston with down pointing thumb,as an upside-down palm pinched.

 

What's wrong with that one moose?

[SA Chris]

Are you mixing your lisas up??

[Houdini]

Boning.  There is no boning, what about boning, huh huh? 

Bone it! I've heard it shouted most effectively by Katz to Kerry Katz at Font':  (she's really high-up now) "Fuck off, Mark!" she shouts down, then tops out.  Awesome!

[moose]

Did you just drop a casual reference to the mighty Honley Quarry?
I spent a carless summer (1990 I think) putting up 'classic' routes on that 'magnificent' crag. I believe someone has traversed the base of the Main Wall - is this true?

I have no idea I'm afraid, it just occured to me as a comically esoteric venue, probably because I recently bought the Huddersifield Area guide / pamphlet.  Unfortunately I have not visited any of the locations - still waiting for a wet half-day when I am staying with my Lockwood based friends, might be a while.... one can but dream!

re Bonjoy - so is my "guppy" definition right?  I wasn't sure, I had heard the term used for a variety of techniques (some of which may have been erroneously identified reverse guppies... the shame).

[Bonjoy]

 Your understanding of the guppy seems sound Mr Moose. As an example the guppy technique would prove almost unavoidable if trying to climb a pure arete 'a cheval'.

[Scouse D]

Boning.  There is no boning, what about boning, huh huh? 

Bone it! I've heard it shouted most effectively by Katz to Kerry Katz at Font':  (she's really high-up now) "Fuck off, Mark!" she shouts down, then tops out.  Awesome!

As in "bone it like a fishmonger," A very useful phrase for putting people off mid-crux.

"Stack" when then fingers are stacked on top of one another, often in a crack or minging shallow pocket (shocket?). The classic "Pex stack" being middle finger stacked ontop of the ring and index fingers.

[Pantontino]

I would say that there is a legitimate variation on the Pex stack: namely the Hockstack (as practiced by Adam Hocking). The difference being that Hock doesn't just apply this method to constricted pockets, in fact he 'hockstacks' pretty much anything that is hard to hold. Strange, but clearly very effective!

[Andy F]

Boning.  There is no boning, what about boning, huh huh? 

Bone it! !

"Stack" when then fingers are stacked on top of one another, often in a crack or minging shallow pocket (shocket?). The classic "Pex stack" being middle finger stacked ontop of the ring and index fingers.

You then get the 'Gnarly stack', most commonly found in the eliminates wall area by the tree at the RHS of Pisa Wall.

[Ru]

"Stack" when then fingers are stacked on top of one another, often in a crack or minging shallow pocket (shocket?). The classic "Pex stack" being middle finger stacked ontop of the ring and index fingers.

AKA the "Harris Stack" as it's called down Millers Dale. A truly awesome technique.

[Houdini]

So is the Harris stack with thumbs?   


I've noticed Hockstax to be more of a thumb-free thing.

[Ru]

No its like an open handed drag with the middle finger staked over the index and ring finger.

[Houdini]

So what's a closed-hand drag?  And why do you use a stake?

[saintlade]

Whatever happpened to a pair of shoes, and a rag, and having some fun 

Yo Dude, this is precisely why I am running this course. The emphasis and indeed the entire introduction to the booklet echos what you said. That you don't need any special guff for bouldering, that the important thing is to get out and have fun.

However there are a lot of people who are intimidated by the whole bouldering scene thinking it's just for hard men, not weak punters like myself. Also i think teaching people some basic safety such as preparing landings and the fine art of spotting wouldn't go amiss as i've seen some shocking examples out and about. I'm aiming the course at people who predominantly climb indoors and are yet to experience climbing outside of some dark dank sweaty climbing wall.

Stuart.

[saintlade]

Oh and cheers for everyones help with regards the dictionary. I may think about putting the whole booklet upon here for people to give constructive criticism and proffer suggestions once it's finished. Just a little more work to do on the design side of things yet.

Thanks again,

Stuart