[dom]

As reported on scottishclimbs.com

http://forums.scottishclimbs.com/viewtopic.php?t=3878

[grimer]

Isn't that amazing. In this weather. Great effort.

[dobbin]

Lots of words from him about it on his Blog http://www.davemacleod.blogspot.com/

[unclesomebody]

Nice to read that Dave actually has an opinion and isn't afraid to state it. It's good to read his thoughts on these things because all too often good climbers climb hard things and don't talk about them honestly and openly. Atleast Dave has the balls to say that Blind Vision is probably E8 or E9... not because he wants to look good but simply because that's what he thinks.

Good ascent and congratulations.

[Stubbs]

I can't imagine climbing anything remotely hard in the conditions we've had over the past few weeks, that's so impressive.  Slingshot looks great too on its own. Like you say, always good to see a top climber stick their neck out when it comes to grades, the parallels he draws between himself and Graham when it comes to grades is pretty true.

Good effort!

[Johnny Brown]

My only significant contribution was the long-standing ‘Slingshot Extension’ project at Froggatt. Slingshot was a legendary highball boulder problem, first climbed by Jerry Moffatt, it had surprisingly only had one repeat. It took about six month’s of training to get strong enough to do the route. The route had pretty much already been graded E10 before I go on it, so I went along with that grading.

[grimer]

yeah, and he doesn't come across as having any axe to grind. Although he's probably aware that he's not just climbing one grade harder than the likes of Dunne did, but at least two.

[Bonjoy]

He's a total hero in my book for going out and getting stuff done given the weather we've had! Haven't had time to read his comments yet.

[Fiend]

He's a total hero in my book for going out and getting stuff done given the weather we've had!

Word.

Nice to read that Dave actually has an opinion and isn't afraid to state it. It's good to read his thoughts on these things because all too often good climbers climb hard things and don't talk about them honestly and openly. Atleast Dave has the balls to say that Blind Vision is probably E8 or E9... not because he wants to look good but simply because that's what he thinks.
Good ascent and congratulations.

Word #2.

(Not going to add my own comments as they are exactly the same as above!)

[Bonjoy]

It's good to see it get a repeat and grade rationalisation before the guide comes out. It was looking like it might go in at E10 even though most thought the numbers didn't add up.

[Johnny Brown]

most thought the numbers didn't add up

Ah, you see that's cos you were adding. The correct method was actually to multiply using a series of matrices.

[Somebody's Fool]

most thought the numbers didn't add up.

Indeed. 5c Mawson was up for trying to flash this before Fatty Smitton pulled the ledge off.  Without disrespectin' the guy, I don't think he would have been so keen to give Equilibrium or Dr Dolittle the same treatment.

[squeek]

Fatty Smitton pulled the ledge off.

Pulled the ledge off!  He must have put on some weight.  I would have thought having no ledge half way up would affect the grade...

[Bonjoy]

Foot ledge at the very start.

[Somebody's Fool]

Sorry should have said 'kicked off'.

[Jim]

that Smitton wants to go on a diet. He makes me look thin 

[unclesomebody]

Interestingly enough, Dave has put this on his scorecard as;

8b+    Blind Vision     Froggatt edge     Traditional     E10 7b 2nd ascent

I didn't realise that Font 7C+ into french 7c+ with a rest ledge inbetween was 8b+.  Anyway, his scorecard is what the world will see, and the world will think climbing french 8b+ on gear is pretty impressive, which inevitably means they'll also think E9's and E8's are hard, which means we can all bask in the waterfall of glory (when really they are french 7b solo's). 

[Paz]

Font 7c/+ traverse is 8b though isn't it, or at least Power Band could be described as either with varyng degreees of accuracy and usefulness.

Respec' to Dave.  If he really does do the Zone next, and down grades that, will Rich then admit to doing it?