the shizzle > bouldering

Dodgy access bouldering sites

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screwyouI'mfromderby:
Does anyone have any firm idea about the access to the stones on Stanton Moor? I've been climbing there for years and never seen a soul, but this summer has seen a lot more chalk being left behind.

While I'd like to be credited for any new problems I've put up, I'll happily keep quiet if it means I can keep the spot.

What's the deal?

Bubba:
The only info I've seen regarding S.M. is Keith Turton's site

I know the place has seen a lot of attention recently, and there's some great climbing there. Nobody I've spoken to really knows the access situation and I think until anyone does, it should be kept low key. One particular area up there has been developed by ourselves and others and I'm almost certain that access would be a no-no, due to the fact that it's probably in the grounds of the big estate up there.

The loose consensus reached is that nothing will be published (on the web or in print), and nobody is going to really claim the problems up there.

I reckon it's best not to rock the boat, and anyway, it's good to have areas that are just there, without the need for everything to be documented and publicised. There's also the feeling that some of the rocks up there have been climbed on since the 70's and so nobody really knows the history anyway.

Some of the newer stuff (eg Jerry Moffat's "Spare Rib" and Percy Bishton's new problems on the open part of the moor) have recently been publicised in the mags, but I'm of the opinion that everything else should just be left as it is.

The Peak doesn't need any more publicity - one of the reasons we've not topo'd many of the lesser known crags on this site is that it's good to have a few places to escape the relentless weekend hordes....

screwyouI'mfromderby:
No problem. I always liked it like that anyway.

If anyones ever wants to go and share some knowledge, get in touch through the forum. I'll probably need a lift from Derby, or more likely the A6 somewhere.

Big Frank:
Thank god for Yorkshire, thank god for Slipstones and Sypeland.

Bubba:
Yeah, it's alright for you lot in Yorkshire with your vast quantities of grit. Snot fair!

What's the situation re Sypeland - pics on yorkshiregrit.com look very nice, but are you likely to be shot by the irate owner. Do you have to keep a very low profile or are you ok once you're up there?

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