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North Wales Highballs (Read 2566 times)

andy_e

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North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 04:30:12 pm
Any recommendations? Me and a few mates are going padpoint crazy this summer... I'm guessing Si can provide the necesarry details. All grades accepted!

Houdini

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#1 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 04:36:42 pm
Well....   Since I'm currently unemployable and have nothing better to do, I'd like to recommend:




a)  Obedience (from 'Rob, the Original N.Wales Boulderer') Yep - the one he originally lead with a RURP @ E3/4 6c.  V6?Not super high but will set you up for,

b)  Disobedience (from Ug) which is higher, and harder V8? Which is left of Obedience.

Both are nice aretes.




edit - Ah, get yer pads out for Eggmeat Arete!  Near the E7, Animal Locomotion.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2006, 11:34:32 pm by Houdini »

dave

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#2 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 04:53:20 pm
i good one that is not to high but sitll feels airy is the V6 arete thing at idwal cottage. We did this one weekend when it was blazing hot, was pretty bling. its basically the right arete of a wide crack, crux low down then composure to the top. good flat tarmac landing!

BenF

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#3 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 05:08:47 pm
Monkey Do (V6)  on the Saturn Block, Ogwen.  Everything on this block feels high despite not actually being horrendously high.  Best done when the grass below is wet and your mat will slide down the slope when you land.

Limpet at Angel bay (cue the usual slagging of the Bay by Dense etc).

Everything up at Utopia, with The Pebble or the Central being the best problems I'd say.


Good topic by the way, please send in some more recommendations.
« Last Edit: June 03, 2006, 05:15:04 pm by BenF »

Houdini

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#4 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 05:19:44 pm
Katz, mini-route boulder problem, A Pointy Reckoning.  Not so big, ah, but the way the ground slopes away as soon as you're on it.  Fucking brilliant flying arete.

Jim

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#5 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 07:50:40 pm
the slabs accross from the cromlech are quite high and very good

Scouse D

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#6 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 07:58:48 pm
"Scouse" Dave Norton's classic Yeeha V4, behind Pen y Pass youth Hostel is very good. Seriously. Think it's only had one repeat too from Throbbins.

Bubba

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#7 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 08:00:19 pm

Good avatar Scouse :)

Pantontino

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#8 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 09:01:25 pm
Willy 2 Goes - stunning slab up on the Meadow in the Pass

Uppercut (V8/7bish)- Cave of Justice

The Mallory Crack (V7/7a+)

Spikeful - new V6/7a in Pass (see recent news on NWB site for this and other highball lines in the same vicinity)

Throbbin's Arete (V6/7a) - Craig y Llwyfan, Pass

Got me Over... (V6/7a), Looking down... (V5/6c) - high lines on The Barrel that everybody (myself included) ignores. I watched Throbbins do these once and he made them look okay (not that means anything at all!).

Willy's Crack (V5/6c), Johnny's Slab (V4/6b), Fear of God righthand finish (V5/6c+) and Trons Brown (V4/6b) - Porth Ysgo

PyG Track Crack (V4/6b) - Pass

Houdini

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#9 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 03, 2006, 09:15:47 pm
Made in Fuckin' Heaven!  Ysgo-go-go!













LIZARD KING                  LIZARD KING                    LIZARD KING!!!!!  Same spot as "Envy"  Craig-y-Ll Ll whatever...



Oh, how about Jiggit @ the RAC boulders?  E6 6c.  Ripe to be updated as a highball boulder problem.  Clean/straight fall but the ground's a wee bit of a sloper.  High - but not ludicrously so.
« Last Edit: June 05, 2006, 09:57:50 pm by Houdini »

Scouse D

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#10 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 04, 2006, 12:23:20 am
Gotta agree with Si on PyG Track Crack- proper A1 goodness. There's also a good one just Left of it on the same face- not as highball but good nevertheless

BenF

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#11 Re: North Wales Highballs
June 06, 2006, 10:04:52 am
Got me Over... (V6/7a), Looking down... (V5/6c) - high lines on The Barrel that everybody (myself included) ignores.

Trons Brown (V4/6b) - Porth Ysgo

Word to all of them.  The Barrel highballs are brilliant and have that pre-requisite slopey grass landing allowing for splendid mat surfing potential.  Got me over has a huge reach on it that can be overcome by some bold rock over shenanigans.  Was one of my favourite highballs for ages.

Trons Brown is utterly superb, personally about my favourite Ysgo problem and a fitting partner to Made in Heaven.  Get a spotter for Trons Brown, then get them to stand on the big pyramidal rock below the problem.  This allows the spotter to shove the falling climber sideways onto a mat (in theory that is, its actually probably better to make sure you flash it really).

 

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