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A weekend of Lakes beastliness (Read 6820 times)

Greg C

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A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 30, 2006, 09:11:45 am
The Lakes bank holiday weekend saw a whirlwind of banter, chips and hard sends. Highlights included Pasquil the Rascal's send of the Ft8a wall on the Bowderstone (4th ascent), he climbed this in about 5 goes :o. Moorish Si sent XXXX on the Stone (3rd ascent) in good style, my new problem (Paroxysm) saw a number of repeats… they all struggled with this one  ;)! Pasqually also sent the Hybrid Moments Extension (Ft8a), and finally Neil Dyer made probably the first flash ascent of Turbulence. Despite all these impressive sends my personal highlight was the show of pure power, elegance and technique displayed by Dense on his send of Ears of Perception. :alky:

Some images of Si on XXXX…






« Last Edit: May 30, 2006, 12:25:18 pm by Greg C »

Stubbs

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#1 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 30, 2006, 02:35:49 pm
Good stuff - who else has repeated the Gaskin's wall besides Ryan and your good self?

Nigel

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#2 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 30, 2006, 05:18:50 pm
Dan Varian has done it too.

Danny Cattell did Art of Self Destruction aswell!  :shag:

unclesomebody

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#3 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 31, 2006, 12:06:13 pm
Good effort to Si. Who did the second ascent and who upgraded it from 7C+?

nik at work

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#4 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 31, 2006, 01:15:05 pm
One of us can't read, but I'm sure there is no mention of an upgrade in the initial post.

Or is the upgrade from some other source?

unclesomebody

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#5 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 31, 2006, 02:41:55 pm
Perhaps I wasn't explicit enough. Who did the second ascent of XXXX and who upgraded it from 7C+ which is what Ryan gave it?

and is this post solely responsible for an increase of four 6 in negative karma? ha ha ha...  :lol:
« Last Edit: May 31, 2006, 03:47:14 pm by unclesomebody »

Doylo

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#6 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 31, 2006, 09:38:39 pm
dunno who upgraded it but Parry, Dunning and Davies all failed on it and they eat 7c+ for breakfast. Si thought 8a and he's done enough of them to know.

Buoux 8C

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#7 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 31, 2006, 11:19:46 pm
dunno who upgraded it but Parry, Dunning and Davies all failed on it and they eat 7c+ for breakfast. Si thought 8a and he's done enough of them to know.

Must be 8c if that lot failed on it.
You cant go upgrading things because someone else didnt manage to climb it. How do you know they werent having an off day- easy day- out of shape etc etc.

Fair enuff if Si thinks it's 8a, he is climbing well of late. Mind you, if all this recent upgradings anything to go off it will be 8B soon. I ask ya?

staminaband (easy finish) 8a?
Trigger cut (new beta) 8a?
Press sit right (has this ever been 8a, it's no harder than the low start) 8a?
Tsunami (using pocket is 7c, only 8a without pocket)
Joker (is the campus way still considered 8a- or even a problem for that matter?)

It's beyond a joke, surely 8a is still hard? Still, each to their own.

Can i just add, i have neither tried, nor seen XXX, so it may turn out to be harder/easier or bang on at 8a. Looks good though.



« Last Edit: May 31, 2006, 11:30:04 pm by Buoux 8C »

irish si

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#8 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 31, 2006, 11:37:50 pm
Actually it said V11 in the rockfax guide. I didnt up grade it simpson. 

staminaband (easy finish) 8a?
Trigger cut (new beta) 8a?
Press sit right (has this ever been 8a, it's no harder than the low start) 8a?
Joker (is the campus way still considered 8a- or even a problem for that matter?)

Yeah I was wondering why you had upgraded all these, I got these grades of your 8a.nu after you had done them, thought they were a bit out but presumed whats good enough for a 9a MONSTER must be good enough for me....ha ha ha ha ha

you should have a look....
« Last Edit: May 31, 2006, 11:46:17 pm by irish si »

irish si

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#9 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
May 31, 2006, 11:39:29 pm
Anyway at least someone saw me do it eh?

Buoux 8C

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#10 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 12:05:36 am
Yes, fair point, but lets not forget that i didn't loose my dignity by having to cheat on Staminaband, use all sorts off hooks and new holds on trigger cut, use a huge rock to jump off on the Joker or use a hold that is out of bounds on tsunami.

You must remember that when climbing eliminate problems or problems with rules, you must adhere to them (Staminaband, tsunami, joker).

I hate to think what goes on in your school room sessions if you cant grasp the concept of whats in and whats not.

Also, if you where sheeping around and following my scorecard why grade the following things as you did.

Press Low left 8a+
Lou ferino 7c+
bens roof 7c+
etc etc.

Anyway, until you climb the halfway house- you will still be the 2nd best climber from Ireland.


Buoux 8C

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#11 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 12:06:47 am
Anyway at least someone saw me do it eh?

And im sure they enjoyed it Imensely.

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#12 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 12:14:59 am
Can i just add, i have neither tried, nor seen XXX

If you're feeling left out I'm sure there's a few dodgy posters round here that can send you some links to fulfill your wildest dreams (and nightmares!)   :shag:

irish si

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#13 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 12:20:37 am
 :beer2: oh well its all fun and im off to live in america, so i wont get confused by eliminates cause i dont have to climb any.

Greg C

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#14 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 08:46:14 am
Quote
Rich wrote: You cant go upgrading things because someone else didnt manage to climb it. How do you know they werent having an off day- easy day- out of shape etc etc

That's a fair point and I totally agree. Although, both Dunning, Davies and Hocking (who incidentally does think it's 7c+) have had a number of sessions on it, so whilst it is possible it's 7c+ you have would  have expected one them to climb it after a bit of concerted effort? Bit burley for me but I will have a go next time I'm up there so I can throw in my two-pence worth. 

Ru

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#15 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 09:26:06 am
Just to clarify, the Davies is the other one not me. If I'd tried XXXX I would have torn it a new arsehole, naturellement. ;)

Tsunami - when this got written up for the guide it had only had a few ascents, and none of us had used the pocket - just matched the sloper - cos that's what the problem was about. It wasn't supposed to be an eliminate. Agree that it's not 8a with the pocket though.

Low Left start to the press - fuck knows as it pulls my shoulder out of joint so I've never really tried it. Having said that, the grade in the guide is for matching the sloper, no pockets again.

a dense loner

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#16 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 10:40:23 am
to add even more on the subject. yesterday the now clean youth arrived at the stone flashed the 8a on the front, did special cases in 10 mins and took only slightly longer to do xxxx. naturally he had to warm up on the easier stuff. all the above was done while lookin european :dance1:

chris

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#17 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 10:41:51 am


Perhaps I wasn't explicit enough. Who did the second ascent of XXXX and who upgraded it from 7C+ which is what Ryan gave it?

and is this post solely responsible for an increase of four 6 in negative karma? ha ha ha...  :lol:

i think gaskins did the second ascent of xxxx? im sure i read it in an old climber mag; panton's bouldering news section - it said that he repeated xxxx v12. looks nails to me and if si says 8a it probably is as he's not one for blowing his own trumpet.

fatboySlimfast

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#18 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 10:42:28 am
easy fellas, easy

unclesomebody

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#19 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 11:09:31 am
to add even more on the subject. yesterday the now clean youth arrived at the stone flashed the 8a on the front, did special cases in 10 mins and took only slightly longer to do xxxx. naturally he had to warm up on the easier stuff. all the above was done while lookin european :dance1:

how about that. One day I'm sat telling him how easy everything is on the Bowderston and the next he's there doing everything on it and making it look easy. Good effort.

Doylo

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#20 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 05:52:00 pm
what a load of shite, with mates like that who needs enemies

Buoux 8C

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#21 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 08:39:30 pm
There seems to be all sorts of confusion as to what was written in jest last night. So being the kind, considerate, thoughtful young man that I am I will try to clear a few things up as, if rumours are true, Si is close to suicide and Chris Doyle has already inflicted a rather unprofessional self vasectomy in fear of having a kid just like me.

Firstly- Both Unclesomebody and I are genuine crag police. If you are cheeky enough to have used a hold, foothold, drop knee, heel hook or toe hook that either myself or Keith where stupid enough not to see then the problem will automatically go down several grades- usually to 7C.
Going even more below the belt, if one is ruthless enough to find beta which is different to that of the first ascensionist, then without a shadow of a doubt, your ascent will be tarnished to a point of near suicide, as was the case with Doyle and Si.

Secondly- Only one 8a+ exists (Superman- Crag x- cragx- Peak district- England- Uk- Planet earth). Any other problem that is not substantially harder than this will be considered a mere font 7c and totally irrelevant. On a similar note, nor are their many font 8A boulders. I can only think of 2 REAL 8a blocs- One being Bohemian groove 8a- Millstone and the other being Brad Pit- B13- Stanage. Any other problem considered at this grade will receive all sorts of slander from the 2 people whose opinions are gospel.

Thirdly- After all the negative karma I have received and the endless hours spent comforting a lost, weak, heartbroken Irish man, I have seen the error of my ways and would like to try to make a mends. :kiss1:

So, at the count of three, can we all pray for peace, love and friendship within the climbing community, lets always pat each other on the back, clean each others shoes and brush each others holds. Let slander, piss taking and any other unkind actions become a thing of the past, then with hope, we will all sleep better at night. :shag:


Ps, I would like to retract the statement made that Irish Si is ‘only' the second best climber from Ireland. It has become apparent, through endless hours of research, that Si, is in fact considered by the other 9 Irish climbers, the best climber that Ireland has ever produced. Not only is he the Irelands best climber, he is also their best cook, as stated on his successful appearance on junior master-chef many moons ago.

Pps, Im really sorry Si, I love you,
 :hug:

irish si

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#22 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 08:55:47 pm
keith bradbury - crag police?  That is truely the funniest thing i have ever heard

thanks buoux you have saved me from an untimely death.

 ;)

Huffy

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#23 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 09:01:01 pm
Bizzare

unclesomebody

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#24 Re: A weekend of Lakes beastliness
June 01, 2006, 09:45:43 pm
that is one of the funniest things I have ever read on UKB. Don't know where you dreamt that one up from simpson, but it's genius. Now that I have been somehow made into an official crag policeman I will be monitoring things more closely. Drop that knee and I'll come and take your life away.

 

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