[Andy Harris]

Just got in from a day at the Tor and surprisingly did a new problem. Steve Mac & Stu Littlefair were trying it last week but pulled off a hold.

"Boy Band" Font 7b+ (or so?) traverses from the huge jug 3m right of saline drip to the start of Staminaband. Make big span from the jug to a sidepull then drop left onto slots and pockets until some big flakes, up a move and across on pockets. Quite good if a little hard on the tendons!

Steve Mac did a new problem last week at about 7c/+. Climb PUTP to end up with RH on the horn round the bulge. Then traverse left on edges to arrive at the OOMT jug after a tough cutloose. Another worthwile addition which is just a little crimpy.

Now they just need linking in to something else.

enjoy

[dave]

Steve Mac did a new problem last week at about 7c/+. Climb PUTP to end up with RH on the horn round the bulge. Then traverse left on edges to arrive at the OOMT jug after a tough cutloose. Another worthwile addition which is just a little crimpy.

this is a good one, I had a couple of goes on it when steve was trying it, great moves. all the dificulty is basically in the last move to the jug, the rest is steadyish. To be honest i would be amazed if its as hard as 7c+, would have thought 7b+/c was more likely, (from the relative comfort of my armchair). I know steve said he thought it was as hard or harder than pump up the power, but thats not saying much as he blatantly finds PUTP about 5c anyway! Does this have a name? pump up my tree?

Is there anything yet that goes in a similar style from R&H to PUTP andy?

[Johnny Brown]

Ha! The lime is called and I get the grit to myself. Perfect conditions at the plantation tonight 

[dave]

That must be your worst case scenario; no-one to showboat to. 

[ned]

That traverse looks good even if it does get a little close to the tree. Some nice looking pockets on it. It will take some beastly stamina to link it into staminaband though.

[Stu Littlefair]

Does that mean I can't sika the big hold back on andy?

[Andy Harris]

Guess so Mr L. It's not too bad just a bit painfull at the mo. With a bit of traffic it'll polish up nicely.

[account_inactive]

Guess so Mr L. It's not too bad just a bit painfull at the mo. With a bit of traffic it'll polish up nicely.

This is funny because it's true 

[Jim]

Ha! The lime is called and I get the grit to myself. Perfect conditions at the plantation tonight 

Hobson moor is were its at these days word. Flying dutchman variation saw 2 repeats last night much to the enigmas disappointment

[Doylo]

That traverse looks good even if it does get a little close to the tree. Some nice looking pockets on it. It will take some beastly stamina to link it into staminaband though.

I'm sure Mr Harris will do the dead. Its not like he's got an aversion to traversing Raven Tor is it!

[ned]

I'm sure Mr Harris will do the dead. Its not like he's got an aversion to traversing Raven Tor is it!

I'm sure your right! I saw him checking out the  new start a few weeks ago...

[irish si]

That traverse looks good even if it does get a little close to the tree. Some nice looking pockets on it. It will take some beastly stamina to link it into staminaband though.

I'm sure Mr Harris will do the dead. Its not like he's got an aversion to traversing Raven Tor is it!

???? do the dead?? I think you mean deed.  he is not a grave robber like yourself

[Houdini]

Doylo wrote:   ?? do the dead??

Ooooooh ya bastid!

Beat me to it! 

[c.j.d.]

  Here's one for you Andy!  I kind of repeated The Hooligan (boulder problem bit) a while ago, but using a different sequence.  I cleaned a tiny edge (v.tiny) for my left, and squished my right fingers (three of) into a small shallow pocket.  This meant I could go up to the small crimp with my left and then campus srtaight through to the finishing jug with my right.  Would this be classed as the same problem (seeing as you use the same holds on route) although you start slightly to the right.  I thought about 8a/+ for this one.  It would be good to know if its been done like this before.

[unclesomebody]

Yes it has. Rich did it like this some time ago.

[Andy Harris]

This is how Neil Travers & myself were trying it years ago before it got done.  Both got to withing a cm of the edge but never quite got it. You must have fingers like Ben Moon, mine aren't particularly fat and i only got a ring finger mono & tiny bit on the middle one. Always thought I'd snap my finger.

Believe Rich did use the pocket but am sure he had the u'cut with his left and went up with his right?

Good effort whatever method you use and at least as hard as the other way. The only question is when are any of you strong boys going to get the route ticked. It's only a hard 8b route from there on the dirtiest holds the Tor has to offer!

[Doylo]

does anyone else think the boulder problem should finish at the second crimp (at 8a) rather than missioning on half way up the route?

[Buoux 8C]

Doyle, if you finish at the second crimp it would be 7c+, the move up and right is as hard as the start move, hence making it 8a.

I have climbed it both ways, neither of which are very good.

Using the pocket (front two fingers) is an 7c+/8a. Using the undercut is also 8a, but very much depends on how many pads you stand on and how tall you are. If you need the assistance of more than one pad to pull on then it dosent count, since it's about 7c like this.

The upper wall isn't particuarly hard- but dog shite. Hence no repeat from me or anyone else for that matter. Maybe one day i will redpoint it- but i sincerely doubt it.

Anyway, hope the place is still drippin wet for all you guys. Just got back from a none conditions dependant runing track- littered with nice girls n'all.

[saltbeef]

Just got back from a none conditions dependant runing track

i'm assuming you mean a running track. presumably you mean an indoor one, i reckon on a hot day with no wind you could add about 4 seconds to your 1500m time, which in 4 minutes can be quite a big deal and i should know i've run a few.

[Doylo]

yeah i agree its only 7c, sure it is.

[Buoux 8C]

Just got back from a none conditions dependant runing track

i'm assuming you mean a running track. presumably you mean an indoor one, i reckon on a hot day with no wind you could add about 4 seconds to your 1500m time, which in 4 minutes can be quite a big deal and i should know i've run a few.

Yes, sorry i meant a running track albeit an indoor one.

Who said anything about 1500 metres, that event is for old women pushing prams round and anyone who moans about conditions whilst running 1500m should be shot. The mile is where it is at, and sub four seconds is pretty intense even though it's only another 109 metres, it makes the world of difference.

I can run up to 6 sets of 1500 metres under 4 minutes with 3 minutes rest between sets but am still a long way off the four minute mile. It really is some pace. Bought me-self a pair of track spikes though the other day, so hopefully that will help.

Saltbeef- have you done a sub 4 minute mile? How many people have run it in UK, 50? or much more?

[ian h]

Just got back from a none conditions dependant runing track

i'm assuming you mean a running track. presumably you mean an indoor one, i reckon on a hot day with no wind you could add about 4 seconds to your 1500m time, which in 4 minutes can be quite a big deal and i should know i've run a few.

Yes, sorry i meant a running track albeit an indoor one.

Who said anything about 1500 metres, that event is for old women pushing prams round and anyone who moans about conditions whilst running 1500m should be shot. The mile is where it is at, and sub four seconds is pretty intense even though it's only another 109 metres, it makes the world of difference.

I can run up to 6 sets of 1500 metres under 4 minutes with 3 minutes rest between sets but am still a long way off the four minute mile. It really is some pace. Bought me-self a pair of track spikes though the other day, so hopefully that will help.

Saltbeef- have you done a sub 4 minute mile? How many people have run it in UK, 50? or much more?

i would have thought a shit loads of athletes would have done the four min mile these days

[ian h]

ok maybe i am wrong   , although it does not state all the sub 4 mins the shortest time has not increased that dramatically over the last 50 years, maybe it is something worth considering when looking at how the standard of climbing is going to increase in the future

purly from a sporting athletic point of view.

http://answers.google.com/answers/threadview?id=439276

[Soxs]

According to this link 855 men have run a mile in under 4 Min's. http://web.telia.com/~u19603668/atb-m07.htm

Just noticed this list is circa 2001 so maybe add another 100 to that.

[jonas]

According to this link 855 men have run a mile in under 4 Min's. http://web.telia.com/~u19603668/atb-m07.htm

Just noticed this list is circa 2001 so maybe add another 100 to that.

147 from GBR according to the same list, namely

Allen Graffin, Thomas Mayo, Michael East, Andrew Graffin, Roger Bannister, Christopher Chataway, Derek Ibbotson, Ken Wood, Brian Hewson, Gordon Pirie, Bruce Tulloh, Stan Taylor, Mike Berisford, Bill McKim, John Whetton, Andy Green, Anthony Harris, Mike Wiggs, Alan Simpson , Neill Duggan, Derek Graham, Allan Rushmer, Maurice Benn, John Boulter, Ian McCafferty, Ian Stewart I, Rayfel Roseman, Chris Mason, Walter Wilkinson, Norman Morrison, Roy Young, Peter Stewart, Brendan Foster, Jim Douglas, John Kirkbride, Andy Carter, Raymond Smedley, Ron Martin, Adrian Weatherhead, Adrian Weatherhead, Ron MacDonald, Tony Settle, Glen Grant, David McMeekin, Ron Speirs, Mike Kearns, Jim McGuinness, Lawrie Spence, Ken Newton, Frank Clement, Tony Leonard, Mike McLeod, Sean Cahill, Steve Emson, Malcolm Plant, Alan Mottershead, Steve Flint, Barry Smith I, Nick Rose, Christoffer Sly, John Robson, Geoff Smith, Jim Espir, Steve Ovett, Sebastian Coe, Dave Moorcroft, Graham Williamson, David Clarke, Tim Hutchings, Colin Reitz, Ian Stewart II, Mike Downes, Graeme Fell, Paul Lawther, David Lewis, Eamonn Martin, Steve James, Mark Scruton, John Keyworth, Gareth Brown III, Jack Buckner, Ashworth Laukam, Tim Redman, Alan Salter, Pat Chester, Steve Cram, Alistair Currie, Neil Horsfield, Neil Ovington, Adrian Callan, Roger Hackney, Mark Kirk, Robert Harrison, Geoff Turnbull, Peter McColgan, Steve Martin, Mark Rowland, Jonathan Richards, Paul Larkins, Andrew Geddes, Steven Crabb, John Gladwin, Malcolm Edwards, Peter Elliott, Chris McGeorge, Gary Taylor, Colin Ridding, Seamus McCann, Mark Howard, David Heath, Adrian Passey, Paul Davies-Hale, Steven Halliday, Craig Mochrie, Simon Mugglestone, David Sharpe, Tony Morrell, Gary Staines, Robert Denmark, Nick Hopkins, Simon Fairbrother, Davey Wilson, Ian Hamer, William "Billy" Dee, Kenneth Penney, John Nuttall, Joe Dunbar, Matt de Freitas, Tom Buckner, Matthew Yates, Matthew Barnes, Kevin McKay, David Strang, Jon Wild, Andy Keith, Ciaran Murphy, Gareth Lough, John Mayock, Neil Caddy, Glen Stewart, Richard Ashe, Michael Openshaw, Spencer Barden, Ian Gillespie, Anthony Whiteman, Phillip Tulba-Morrison, Darius Burrows