UKBouldering.com

Kilnsey conditions (Read 217311 times)

robertostallioni

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2285
  • Karma: +197/-2
#500 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 14, 2011, 07:25:06 pm
They were both dry. Didn't check past north B. but it was wet. The dry routes I remember were R=L Frankie, Direct Flight, Pantomime, Comedy, 50F5, stickety wickety, man wi' gun, metal guru, metal mickey and the 7a gems. Stuff was starting to dry out through the day too. More climbable tomorrow I reckon.

robertostallioni

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2285
  • Karma: +197/-2
#501 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 14, 2011, 08:20:35 pm
looks like dominatrix got climbed on too, though it was dripping up to the first bolt.

richardh

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 5
  • Karma: +0/-0
#502 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 14, 2011, 08:45:38 pm
Dominatrix was suprisingly do-able today, most of the holds that matter in the bottom section you could use, up to the first roof was a bit slippy, and the jug over the roof was disappointly slimy, the top half was fine.

I'd say by the end of the day things were looking a lot better there, and further along north butress the patches were shrinking quickly.


TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3840
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#503 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 15, 2011, 12:03:43 pm
They were both dry. Didn't check past north B. but it was wet. The dry routes I remember were R=L Frankie, Direct Flight, Pantomime, Comedy, 50F5, stickety wickety, man wi' gun, metal guru, metal mickey and the 7a gems. Stuff was starting to dry out through the day too. More climbable tomorrow I reckon.

Nice one on the detailed report Rob; did you notice if Stolen was ok as well? (ie cold steal extension)

robertostallioni

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2285
  • Karma: +197/-2
#504 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 15, 2011, 12:13:36 pm
wasn't, but 75/25 sure it will be today.

Davo

Online
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 446
  • Karma: +25/-4
#505 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 19, 2011, 04:53:12 pm
Anyone been to Kilnsey this week?

keefe

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 27
  • Karma: +4/-0
#506 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 19, 2011, 07:46:52 pm
DWS was looking good on Tues & it may have rained since.

LH side was ok (Bullet & Stolen), Sticky Wicket, 5045, Comedy, Pantomime, Ground Effect etc ok. Not great otherwise. N Buttress not good. Grooved Arete pretty wet on the starting holds & the pocket a bit damp.

but hey.... see you all there tomorrow anyway...

griffer

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 74
  • Karma: +6/-0
#507 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 20, 2011, 08:31:14 am
crag drying quickly, but a lot of routes have damp pockets on them, even high up the crag!!!!

TobyD

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3840
  • Karma: +88/-3
  • Job offers gratefully accepted
#508 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 21, 2011, 11:11:23 am
crag drying quickly, but a lot of routes have damp pockets on them, even high up the crag!!!!

are you referring to urgent action here?

PS i'll be keen this wednesday; if anyone else is interested?

robertostallioni

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2285
  • Karma: +197/-2
#509 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 21, 2011, 11:43:57 am
Urgent and Full Tilt had plenty dampness on the bottom 3/4 bolts on Saturday.

Nao

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 9
  • Karma: +3/-0
#510 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 23, 2011, 02:53:38 pm
Anybody been to Kilnsey this week? Particularly interested in conditions on The Thumb.....

geoffg

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 40
  • Karma: +5/-0
#511 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 23, 2011, 10:23:45 pm
Still some wet undercuts on the Thumb. Crag not too bad but many pockets had grease at back of them.

Nao

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 9
  • Karma: +3/-0
#512 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 25, 2011, 04:48:53 pm
Thanks Geoff,
I decided not to risk it and headed to Malham instead.
Cheers for the update.

griffer

Offline
  • *
  • regular
  • Posts: 74
  • Karma: +6/-0
#513 Re: Kilnsey conditions
August 26, 2011, 09:23:45 am
crag still in a strange state, starting to look dry but a lot of pockets are wet!!!!!!!!!!!, makes redpointing difficult. This seems to be mostly on the right hand section from quiet flight, left seems dry.........( but only done open road)
North buttress still wet.
Raining today :(

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +72/-1
#514 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 04, 2011, 09:08:57 am
If anyone goes today could you be kind enough to check to see if daliance is dry? That would be mega, cheers. :)

JW

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 5
  • Karma: +0/-0
#515 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 04, 2011, 09:45:50 pm
I went Saturday and the crag generally was pretty wet - including the right hand end. Didn't look at that route specifically though.

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +72/-1
#516 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 04, 2011, 10:03:09 pm
Cheers, I heard today of someone there that the route was wet. THX.

AlistairB

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 151
  • Karma: +11/-0
#517 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 07, 2011, 12:08:35 am
General update, seepage generally bad and worsening. Left and right ends of directissima buttress still dryish, wet holds on upper extensions and of course directissima itself. Stuff like Sticky Wicket and 50 for 5 still hanging on. Comedy has a few wet holds in the first 3 clips but still just about climbable. North buttress is absolutely soaked through. Bulge + Ecstacy very wet. Possibly some dry stuff around Biological Need. Central Wall very wet. Again possibly some stuff dry around Grooved Arete (no huge seepage streaks yet but individual holds may be wet).

The Beck is above the stepping stones so wellies / a towel are handy. There's been more heavy rain tonight :(.

AlistairB

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 151
  • Karma: +11/-0
#518 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 10, 2011, 08:16:31 pm
Pretty grim today, actual weather amicable enough (basically no rain, nice temps) but major seepage with wet holds on almost everything. Ground Effect and Truth Drug were bone dry, as was I think Alternative Optional Extra or whatever it's called. Sticky Wicket possibly dry but didn't try it. 50 for 5 wet. Comedy very wet in some very unhelpful places! North Buttress, Bulge etc. all covered in huge wet streaks.

That said, forecast looks a little more forgiving for the next few days so maybe all isn't lost yet. I hope not!

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3590
  • Karma: +312/-2
#519 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 20, 2011, 08:41:41 pm
I'm thinking this is probably a bit optimistic but... I've got a small window of opportunity popping up later this week so want to head for a dryish crag, any recent knowledge on Kilnsey conditions gratefully received.

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3590
  • Karma: +312/-2
#520 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 30, 2011, 08:15:29 pm
Plenty of small damp seepage bits, but also plenty of dry rock. Kilnsey isn;t gone for the year yet...
A selection of info:
Metal Mickey - dry but missing a hold
Indian Summer - seepy bit high up
Comedy - wet undercuts at start
Thing Right of Comedy - dry
Tragedy - climbable but wet pocket at start
Biological - wet
Ripper/Zero/Soft/Massala - all wet at start
North Buttress - some seepy streak but a lot dryer than I expected
Grooved Arete - several seepy bits
Daliance - wet start

Can't remember anything else, oh wait someone was on the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5 so I guess that's dry,and 50 for 5 seemed dry I think??

IanP

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 708
  • Karma: +34/-0
#521 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 30, 2011, 10:01:32 pm

Can't remember anything else, oh wait someone was on the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5 so I guess that's dry,and 50 for 5 seemed dry I think??

Thanks for the update but if by the 'the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5', you mean the Ashes, 7c+, one of the best routes of it's grade in the country you should really look to increase your Kilnsey knowledge (and get it ticked!). 

nik at work

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 3590
  • Karma: +312/-2
#522 Re: Kilnsey conditions
September 30, 2011, 10:09:36 pm
Fair comment, duly noted. Once I've worked my way through the current batch of routes that need finishing off I'll get on the case...

Nike Air

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 677
  • Karma: +72/-1
#523 Re: Kilnsey conditions
October 06, 2011, 10:10:12 pm
popped in today after work. seemed in pretty good nick. few seepy bits tho it has rained a lot today so this may change but is meant to be tres sunny tomorrow morning....

Adam Lincoln

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 4946
  • Karma: +111/-30
    • Flickr Page, Vimeo Videos and Blog
#524 Re: Kilnsey conditions
October 06, 2011, 10:40:26 pm
Can't remember anything else, oh wait someone was on the 7c(?) left of 50 for 5 so I guess that's dry,and 50 for 5 seemed dry I think??

 :spank:

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal