[Liam Copley]

Hi to all reading, maybe abit late for this now, but will check it tomorrow, anyway, I was wondering if you could tell me if this boulder problem in the link below is the one being described in the Peak Bouldering Guide on P316, number 2. There is no name for the problem in the guide and the grade is different by the added +. But seems to be that problem apart from the big move at the end witch is not described in the guide.....If not..What is this problem?

Thanks guys, and yes I know I climb V8 but looking for summer projects

Cheers dudes!

[Paul B]

I'm no tor-expert. I'm sure one will be here soon enough but until then;

"Dave dropping the top of his problem at the Tor. "

I 'think' this is where Ru's new route goes and Dave's problem was one way of starting it... Not sure about the grade. If this is the case its post-guide. I can't check what P316 number 2 is at the minute as my guide is in the car.

[dave]

this problem was put up since all the guides to date, so whatever is on page 316 this certinaly isn't is.

[dobbin]

What is on P316, number 2? It sounds like a classic...

look at Dave's shorts! he could be in the 80s with them puppies. What did he give this? 7c?

[abarro81]

316 no 2 is the world famous undercut-sloper-jug..

Is the thing in the video just right of powerhumps (ie. his right hand is starting in the staminaband undercuts?)?

[dobbin]

Ah. Thanks abarro81. Yes.

Liam - try power humps.

[T_B]

It's like a sitting start to the now quite popular Font 7b which utilises the glued finger jug of Staminaband for the right + sidepulls to bounce into that flat sidepull that Dave gets. From there you get a high heel on the jug and two crimps to slap for an edge at the bottom of the wild in me? flake

[r-man]

Done in 2007 and not in the guide. Dave called it Influx and thought 7C+. Start sitting from the Staminaband undercut and pocket and climb straight up, no sidepulls out right. Finish hanging the hold that Dave just misses in this clip. Most people will need to move their feet off the bottom foothold a lot sooner than Dave...

Aside from Powerhumps, another good Tor problem to work: try pg 313, problem 2. It climbs out of the right hand side of the cave to finish on the Weedkiller jug.

[dobbin]

Robin you deviant - this is not a nice problem, its a horror show!

Its also a bit elimanate. For 7c you cant use the weedkiller jug for your heel until you have come into the undercut. What people do now is get the crimp, swing the heel into the weedkiller jug and then rumble up to the big sharp flatty. This is not 7c.

[r-man]

I didn't say it was 7c! I think it's nice with the heel allowed, one of the Tor's better problems, providing you have an attentive spotter. Soft 7b+ ish? Harder than Rattle n Hump direct.

[dave]

its a very good and "natural" problem with the heel. I think even though it was probably originally done as dobbin describes it doesn't make much sense as an eliminate what with the fact you use the jug later, more of the case that the sequence just wasn't spotted initially (or the lack of mats would make it too dangerous) - i'm sure bomber harris can clarify. if you were going to say miss the jug entirely then fair enough, but i recon that'd be a good 7c+. this ain't the pinches wall people.

[Stubbs]

this ain't the pinches wall people.

But it is the tor, where you can get in trouble for using holds in the wrong order, or not using a hold, let alone using an extra one 

[Andy Harris]

this problem was done back in the 80's and then a hold snapped leaving the v.small RH crimp. Myself & Andy Bowie made the 1st repeat using the small crimp a long time ago now.

we didn't use any heelery because a) only Mike Lea used heels back then b) it's really rather brutal & good without.

we did 2 variants
- 1 snatching into the u'cut (LH) then again with LH to the crozzle crimp round the lip, gave it 7c but prob 7c+
- missing out the ucut and going straight to the crozzle crimp with LH 7c+ or 8a?

both problems went RH straight to the slopey pinch below the jug & again to the jug for a big slappy move.

more tor related eliminati