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Props (Read 3739 times)

yoda

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Props
May 15, 2006, 11:47:10 pm
Who has pushed bouldering the most over the last decade??,I know for me its got to be jerry moffatt,I think his attitude is excellent and although he probably can't still cut it with the young guns he constantly seems to push himself

Fiend

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#1 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 12:32:09 am
So what significant boulder problems has Jerry done in the last decade?

Has he done a lot more significant bouldering than other UK climbers, say, Gaskins, Smith, Moon?

yoda

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#2 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 12:46:09 am
 He has pushed the exposure of bouldering and gave it accessibility to the masses,fair enough he might not be brute strong but you can never doubt his attitude.

steven82

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#3 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 01:23:09 am
I think moffatt has done amazin things for bouldering but in the past 10 years it has to be between gaskins and smith certainly on a british front for the way they've approached bouldering and for the grades they have managed to achieve and still are achieving. but do they stand up on the world front???

Dave T

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#4 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 04:29:24 am
Those guys all crank hard but for consistantly pushing the boundaries over the last decade and more it has to be big Fred. Who else has done so many cutting edge problems in so many different areas? Guys like Klem Loskot, Bernd Zangerl, Dave Graham and yes Sharma have all contributed loads as well in terms of nails hard problems and making bouldering as popular as it is now.

jonas

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#5 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 07:25:34 am
Koyamada Dai.

He puts up tons of quality problems in all grades all over Japan, and sets problems in gyms all over the place. Market bouldering to the masses, produces instruction videos on how to boulder and so forth. Travel the world, repeats all hard problems, wherever he goes. He might be the guy.

dave

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#6 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 05:37:13 pm
Koyamada Dai.

He puts up tons of quality problems in all grades all over Japan, and sets problems in gyms all over the place. Market bouldering to the masses, produces instruction videos on how to boulder and so forth. Travel the world, repeats all hard problems, wherever he goes. He might be the guy.

lets get real though, if you took a representative cross section of the world's bouldering population then i doubt more than 10-20% would even know who he is or indeed pick him out of a lineup of other japanese guys. It not like i recon he's had any influence in minor bouldering destinations like the UK, france, switzerland, the USA, canada...... What's he ever done at the tor? :wink:

Personally over the last 10 years i would say Sharma or possibly Nicole has had the biggest influence. Jerry 's biggest period of influence was in the 90s, ditto moon. For reference Jerry's has done stuff in the last 10 years, for a kickoff stuff like full power, the joker, the ace etc.

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#7 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 06:10:47 pm
... i doubt more than 10-20% would even know who he is or indeed pick him out of a lineup of other japanese guys.

http://www.alllooksame.com/

Pemb

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#8 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 09:23:57 pm
I think that Ben and Jerry probably acted as the catalyst for everyone to start bouldering back in the mid 90s. Since then they have been fairly influential on the world scene but would say that Nicole followed by the likes of Sharma, Graham and maybe Loskot have been more influential. They all travel loads and are constantly putting up cutting edge problems.

To my knowledge Koyamada has only done a few hard things. Dreamtime, Wheel of Life and some 8C+ in Japan are the only ones I can think of.

old cheese

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#9 Re: Props
May 16, 2006, 09:24:48 pm
I took that test and it said that i was inversley amazing! i got 2 out of the 18!!! it also said it was not easy to get that many wrong. I concur with the above 'line up' statement about Dai

jonas

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#10 Re: Props
May 17, 2006, 05:51:19 am
Koyamada Dai.

He puts up tons of quality problems in all grades all over Japan, and sets problems in gyms all over the place. Market bouldering to the masses, produces instruction videos on how to boulder and so forth. Travel the world, repeats all hard problems, wherever he goes. He might be the guy.

lets get real though, if you took a representative cross section of the world's bouldering population then i doubt more than 10-20% would even know who he is or indeed pick him out of a lineup of other japanese guys. It not like i recon he's had any influence in minor bouldering destinations like the UK, france, switzerland, the USA, canada...... What's he ever done at the tor? :wink:

In France, apart from putting up an 8b and an 8b+ in Font, and some easier stuff in Eaux-Claires, he have not done anything. Neighter in Australia, apart from some link-ups.

That all climbing media (with one notable exception) is still ridiculous parochial might be the reason that he is largely unknown outside Japan. It is the same here in Japan, most boulderers here would not be able to name one single french boulderer apart from Godoffe. Switzerland's Fredric Nicole seems to be known, but there was recently a big profile on him in rock&snow so that might be cheating. I would say that most people over here would be hard pressed to come up with the name of one single British boulderer. Ben Moon would perhaps be known, at least among older climbers.

And it sort of understandable, it  is not like there is harder boulder problems somewhere else in the world.
« Last Edit: May 17, 2006, 07:42:53 am by jonas »

a dense loner

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#11 Re: Props
May 17, 2006, 04:58:02 pm
watched Dai's Action Direct vid at uncles. the man is a raving monster and very humble with it, apparently not with the false modesty of some others.

Oh the vid is quality too. Yes Jim i'll sort it out

a dense loner

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#12 Re: Props
May 17, 2006, 04:59:07 pm
the false modesty certainly did not apply to anyone previously mentioned

dave

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#13 Re: Props
May 17, 2006, 05:03:52 pm
Koyamada Dai.

He puts up tons of quality problems in all grades all over Japan, and sets problems in gyms all over the place. Market bouldering to the masses, produces instruction videos on how to boulder and so forth. Travel the world, repeats all hard problems, wherever he goes. He might be the guy.

lets get real though, if you took a representative cross section of the world's bouldering population then i doubt more than 10-20% would even know who he is or indeed pick him out of a lineup of other japanese guys. It not like i recon he's had any influence in minor bouldering destinations like the UK, france, switzerland, the USA, canada...... What's he ever done at the tor? :wink:

In France, apart from putting up an 8b and an 8b+ in Font, and some easier stuff in Eaux-Claires, he have not done anything. Neighter in Australia, apart from some link-ups.

That all climbing media (with one notable exception) is still ridiculous parochial might be the reason that he is largely unknown outside Japan. It is the same here in Japan, most boulderers here would not be able to name one single french boulderer apart from Godoffe. Switzerland's Fredric Nicole seems to be known, but there was recently a big profile on him in rock&snow so that might be cheating. I would say that most people over here would be hard pressed to come up with the name of one single British boulderer. Ben Moon would perhaps be known, at least among older climbers.

And it sort of understandable, it  is not like there is harder boulder problems somewhere else in the world.

i'm not saying he ain't strong or anything, i'm just saying he hasn't pushed bouldering forwards the most over the last decade.

cofe

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#14 Re: Props
May 17, 2006, 06:10:49 pm
ditto.


SA Chris

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#15 Re: Props
May 18, 2006, 06:38:37 am
I thought his name was Dai Koyamada, and he was from the Welsh Valleys.

curly ben

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#16 Re: Props
May 18, 2006, 07:37:56 pm
my votes with Nicole- the chaps a beast.
constantly 'pushing ' grades. crazy lines in crazy places
developed areas lke rocklands... and still charging
The guy needs to crack open a can of waddingtons and pat himself on the back

SA Chris

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#17 Re: Props
May 19, 2006, 07:57:55 am
developed areas lke rocklands... and still charging

Developed?? Rocklands was being developed back in the early 90s by some dedicated souls long before Fred set foot in SA. In those days no-one went to SA. Todd Skinner was one of the first "rock stars" to visit and was shown around, and was one of the first to highlight how good it was. Then Fred etc arrived and established some of the harder problems.

the_dom

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#18 Re: Props
May 19, 2006, 08:07:40 am
developed areas lke rocklands... and still charging

Developed?? Rocklands was being developed back in the early 90s by some dedicated souls long before Fred set foot in SA. In those days no-one went to SA. Todd Skinner was one of the first "rock stars" to visit and was shown around, and was one of the first to highlight how good it was. Then Fred etc arrived and established some of the harder problems.

Nah, Curly Ben's right in my opinion. Fred has put more effort than anyone, locals included, into developing Rocklands and, by extension, South African bouldering. He may not have been the first person there, but he has more FAs there, by an order of magnitude, than anyone else.

 

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