[Vitamin K]

"Hmmm, see what BMC man Les Ainsworth thinks. He was annoyed by the brownstones wiki http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/ He thought the photo of the rabbit was pro-fly tipping, hence the amended footnote."

Just seen this post on Rockfax - what's all this about and what's it got to do with anybody anyway? So what got him annoyed?

Oh no, it's the democratisation of information...run for the hills!

[Serpico]

Basically Les thinks he owns all rights to Lancs climbing info. He tried to get the BMC to sue Rockfax over "theft of information", he had a go at R-Man over his website, and now he's pissed at the Wiki.
If you're ever truly bored count how many times he refers to himself in the history sections of the Brick.
No mention of who removed the ivy at Chapel Head, or who got White Scar banned, or who got Woodwell O'ert Road banned though...

[clm]

ive seen him garden...its amazing - a one man earth mover.

A bit like this.



but with a white beard.

[GCW]

Sorry, just seen this.

Mr Ainsworth was pissed at a couple of things, although what he said was a tad vague.

Brownstones is owned by Smithills not UU. The last time that I contacted
them they were not too keen on climbing, but we left it with a comment from
them that they would consider it.

Also, I am not sure what message was supposed to be conveyed by the Fly
Tipping and Nature co-exist photo. It seemed to me that this was suggesting
that fly tipping was not seen by climbers to be a problem!!

As for climbers not being responsible for chipping the rock, that seems
highly improbable. Indeed, I was contacted a couple of years ago with a
comment that someone with a mat and a hammer drill with a wire brush and a
screwdriver attachment was responsible for some chipping around Ashpit Slab,
and they wouldn't listen to objections from other climbers.

Cheers aye

Les Ainsworth

I still can't see why my photo of a rabbit gets on his tits, but I've put the footnote there to stop people getting the wrong idea 
I still don't think climbers did the chipping.  If Les actually went to look, I'm sure he'd agree.
Regarding access, I'm now waiting for him to go to the owners to botch access like occurred at a certain other crag (ask Greg C if you want to know).

Cheers aye
GCW

[GCW]

Besides which. I've steered well clear of any first ascents from the Lancs guide as these tend to irritate him.  If he wants to contact me directly rather than dragging others into it I'd be happy to discuss things properly.

[GCW]

Just noticed the Wiki has hit 1000 visitors now.  Thanks to everyone who has had a look/ contributed.

[Vitamin K]

  and long may it continue.

Cheers G.

[GCW]

Just so you all know, not that many care!
PDF topos are available to download from the WIKI and include all eliminates I know of so far, just to keep clm happy 

These downloads are limited to under 1MB, so if quality of images is a problem PM me and I'll e-mail you the better quality versions.

Enjoy.

[GCW]

I finally went to Brownstones today.
The flake has left a big muddy mess, but I've reclimbed The Nexus Dyno (probably 6c now) and Lancashire PotHot (7a+ I reckon, using the remnants of the flake).  I reckon PotHot will go without the flake, via a dynamic move.

I noted various other holds had broken too- the left hold on The Good (Nexus wall), the right hand hold of Groundhog sitter (thanks to Dylan for the headsup), plus others.

[Vitamin K]

What the hell happened there? That's a big piece of rock to go AWOL.

Not been to the 'stones for ages - should pop up for a look.

[GCW]

Let me know when you're going, old man.

It's been wobbling for a long time, I think it finally gave up the ghost.

[account_inactive]

Ahem ahem, Groundhog sit repeat? 

[GCW]

I didn't want to blow your Trumpet for you, Dylan.

[account_inactive]

I meant you get your arse in gear, not me 

[GCW]

Ah I see.
I think that's one problem I'll never be able to do.

[andy_e]

whoops, wrong thread.

[r-man]

The flake has left a big muddy mess, but I've reclimbed Lancashire PotHot (7a+ I reckon, using the remnants of the flake).

Your sequence on LP is a little naughty. Not sure matching on the gaston is allowed:

To quote the wiki:

Sit start on 3. RH-7 (sidepull), LH-7. RH-21. LH-20.

 

[GCW]

I will go back and do it properly.
I will go back and do it properly.
I will go back and do it properly.
I will go back and do it properly.

[Probes]

(53) Groundhog

Height: 5m - Grade: BP 6c First Ascent: -1993 - By: 1993 Geoff Hibbert
Rating: 2 Star -
The arête and overlap on the immediate left.

Id just like to point people in the direction of the original description for groundhog. Not wanting to be a  . But its something that is easily missed. 

... wheres all the spirit of adventure gone?

[GCW]

Your sequence on LP is a little naughty. Not sure matching on the gaston is allowed:

To quote the wiki:

Sit start on 3. RH-7 (sidepull), LH-7. RH-21. LH-20.

I hope this is better, R-Man.  No matching the gaston, no using the remains of the flake.   




Probes, you are quite right- which is why I try to ensure the boulder problem is always referred to as Groundhog Start.  The top probably needs a bit of a scrub.

[account_inactive]

(53) Groundhog

Height: 5m - Grade: BP 6c First Ascent: -1993 - By: 1993 Geoff Hibbert
Rating: 2 Star -
The arête and overlap on the immediate left.

Id just like to point people in the direction of the original description for groundhog. Not wanting to be a  . But its something that is easily missed. 

... wheres all the spirit of adventure gone?

Spirit of adventure? I think climbing through dirt is off the agenda for me

[danm]

But anyway, I bumped into someone who told me about several of the old skool classics, and about a guy named Johnny Peate (I think) who had done a sitstart to Directissima at V10 and a V11 eliminate in the Niche, down by the pool. I'd love to find out what that is - does anyone know this guy?


That sounds like my old mate John Peak. He would typically turn up, down some Stella and a couple of AK47 reefers and then  burn everyone off. Took up fishing because "nobody bothers fishermen, right. Good cover for hanging around getting caned."

As far as I know, after he'd done everything that was recorded at Brownstones, he just started adding sitstarts to all the harder problems. No idea what, you have to bear in mind that to him, hard meant "English 6c" as we'd never heard of bouldering grades. I'll see if I can find out what he did anyway.

[account_inactive]

I know a fisherman who caught a fish this big

[danm]

All of a sudden I can see the appeal of this fishing malarky. Don't think you get many of those around Bolton way though.

[Probes]

One of the most intellegent fish in the sea apparently.