[GCW]

At Brownstones last night.  Saw Caleb again, he was telling me about some "yound lad" trying a fingery Pigswill Eliminate.  I finally clicked it was Vit K when he showed me the beta.  Caleb can't get near it though.
I did a couple of nice dynos on Nexus, including a one hander- inspired by Greg C.  Details/ vids etc to follow R-Man.

[Vitamin K]

Young lad -  I made some progress on that day but it's not in the bag yet.

[clm]

please stop now boys.

[GCW]

Caleb tells me he linked Hogwart's start into Pigswill but:
1.  Used big undercut 11 and
2.  Fell off at the top 
I'm struggling on Hogwart's, not that I've tried it much.
Maybe I'll have a proper look.

[clm]

i said stop

[GCW]

  I take it you don't want to see the Nexus wall ripple by ripple Ultra-Topo?

[GCW]

I've stuck another tedious vid on u-toob

Anyone interested in arranging this Brownstones meet?  Was there today and the LBW appears mostly dry.
I seem to remember Chappers expressed a mild interest a while back and I know R-Man and Andi_e would be there.  And of course Andy F to formally make peace.

Lots of pads/ spotters and there's loads to do!

[r-man]

Anyone interested in arranging this Brownstones meet?  Was there today and the LBW appears mostly dry.
I seem to remember Chappers expressed a mild interest a while back and I know R-Man and Andi_e would be there.  And of course Andy F to formally make peace.

Lots of pads/ spotters and there's loads to do!

Weather permitting, how about Sunday? I am back in the area for a friend's wedding on Saturday, so I suppose this is also hangover permitting - but how about it?

Or is this too short notice?

[account_inactive]

I've stuck another tedious vid on u-toob

I will never get that 9:49 back

I hate you

[GCW]

I've stuck another tedious vid on u-toob

I will never get that 9:49 back

I hate you

So you didn't watch both videos Dylan?  Ha ha, click on a link like that and what did you expect?  I did say "tedious".

R-man:  That may be OK, but my skin is in poor shape at the moment.  I'll let you know.  Still got another secret dyno to do anyway.

[r-man]

Well, probably a bit too short notice to get enough people down for a proper LBW day, but I'm sure I'll be there on Sunday anyway.

[GCW]

Have a go at my two dynos- see what you think.  They are both good.  Let me know about grades as I may be wrong with V3 and V5 
Going back later today for a play on my project 

A LBW meet would be good soon, before the weeds grow back more- bigger fallout zone.     Crackhorse needs done.  And maybe The Young Pretender (whole route)- should be OK as a highball after a scrub?

[andy_e]

Yay- back in lancashire now. Sunday sounds like a plan, how long are you back for R-man?

[GCW]

News of chipping at the Pool end.   
I'll have a look at it when I go later.

And please change your avatar Andi_e, it's 'orrible. 

[namnok]

Updated version:



a new pigswill elim i've got out of my system once again turns out to be a lot easier that i had thought

direkt with a k, v6 = start 10, A, 8, 2&3, 6, finish

[GCW]

Nice one.  I've thought about that before but never tried it.  Dagnabbit!!!
Still, I've got loads of other stuff to do anyway.
Anyone else done GCW Piggy No tricks?  Andi_e couldn't 

[GCW]

Just to keep everything in line, I've modded all these to stay in touch with the Wiki topo:

1. Undercuts
2. Good foothold
3. Higher foot nick
4. Ledge (not including sidepull)
5. Sidewall of niche
6. Undercut with dink
7. Sidepull
8. Crimp/ pinch
9. Undercut
10. Dink
11. Poor undercut
12. OK undercuit
13. Sidepull
14. Pinch
15. Pinch
16. Good hold next to Parabola
17. Good crimp
18. Poorer crimp
19. Crappy crimp
20. Good blob/ sloper
21. Poor crimp
22. Better crimp
23. Good crimp
24. Big sloper
25. Pocket
26. Slot
27. Jug


Pigswill No Tricks V7 6c
Sit start on 1.  LH-6, RH-14.  RF-2, LF-4.  RH- 20.  Usual finish.  No foot/toe hooks/locks/ faggotry

PP (Pigswill into Parabola) V7 6c
Sit start on 1.  LH-6, RH-14.  RF-2, LF-5.  LH-13.  RH- 21.  Bump RF up to 3.  LH-17, RH-18, finish as per usual. 

GCW's Proper Pigswill No Tricks V8 6c
Sit start on 1.  LH-6, RH-14.  Now, LF-2 and flag right foot.  LH-23, RH-25.  LH-27
Totally changes the problem- but viscious on that right hand tips.  May be harder if you are shorter than I am.

Peaky's Problem  V9ish 6c
Sit start on 1.  RH-14.  LH-21.  RH-27. 
Looks horrible.  Certainly VERY reachy.

Direkt with a K V6 6c
Sit start on 4.  Use 8 to gain 17 and 18, then 26.  Top out direct.

Hogwart's V7 6c
Sit start on 4.  RH-8, LH-7.  Do something clever with your feet to get RH-14.  Add a finish of your choice.

[namnok]

another error i've just noticed

hogwarts goes lefthand into 6 not 7 as in you description

ste

[GCW]

Sorry, that's a typo.  Changed it now.
Does Direkt use 8 only as a crimp or do you use it as an undercut with a thumb on the crimpy bit?  Wasn't clear.  Thanks for the feedback.  I'll check the wiki too.

[namnok]

i used it as a pinch with thumb on the underside and practically layback it to gain 13

be a good effort if you can get your right hand thumb onto the crimp and move off that!!

[GCW]

Tried it as you say but also by undercutting the overlap with the right with a thumb on the hold.  Gut buster.  I'll have another look.  I struggle with Hogwart's anyway.  Orrid.

[r-man]

It's been a while coming, but one of the projects on the Long Back Wall at Brownstones has finally been climbed. Twas Paul Robins who did the deed...

Its up the wall right of thunder, start on small crimp layaway for right hand,
bounce up to sloper with left then hop to big jug right. big rock
over on previous sloper up for left hand layaway and then sketch to
the top. Ninja Finger, V7 ish i reckon. Obviously the sitter awaits!

Sounds good!

[GCW]

Thanks R-Man.
Well done Paul 

<This information has been absorbed into the superb BROWNSTONES WIKI>

[r-man]

Courtesy of Paul Robins, a video of his new highball, Ninja Fingers:

[GCW]

Thanks R-Man.
Well done Paul 

<This information has been absorbed into the superb BROWNSTONES WIKI>

This new info will as well.