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Brownstones photo topo (Read 53828 times)

GCW

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#25 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 14, 2007, 12:44:40 pm
"The Scarlet Pigswill-el".  You've got a good degree of mystique it seems.  Pigswill seems to keep poor condition longer than Hank's after a wet spell.  Don't know why.
Nobody going for "2 Hold Hank"?

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#26 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 14, 2007, 08:42:21 pm
I noticed tonight that the crescent shaped side pull was chalked   :whistle:
R-Man:  Caleb denies knowledge of the 7c of which you ask.

Well done to Gaz P on the SubMarine repeat :thumbsup:.  Bit naughty though, considering the access issues (which still haven't been resolved  :()

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#27 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 14, 2007, 10:05:50 pm
Re Longridge, I get the impression climbers are tolerated, if not officially condoned:

Quote from: BMC man
As reported elsewhere, the BMC's draft contract amendments were agreed by the landowners just before Christmas '06. We are therefore now waiting for the sale contracts from the landowner.
I spoke with the landowner last week regarding this delay and he agreed to look into it.

Low numbers of climbers do visit the site.
__________

R-Man:  Caleb denies knowledge of the 7c of which you ask.

Scratch that 7c eliminate then - but I definitely talked to him about it. Vitamin K, perhaps you could try linking Hogwarts into your project?

I too have a project on the Pigswill wall. And on Hanks wall. And and and...

Blasphemy perhaps, but moving away from this wall, has anyone tried
-the tight line of brushed holds left of the corner, left of the key
-the traverse rightwards from the key into groundhog (slightly possible there are not enough holds)
-any of the three projects on the long back wall
-colt, since losing a hold
-alana direct finish

Also, neither of these have been repeated, as far as I know
-Crackhorse
-Lifeline sitter

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#28 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 14, 2007, 10:14:48 pm
Vitamin K, perhaps you could try linking Hogwarts into your project?

Blasphemy perhaps, but moving away from this wall, has anyone tried
-the tight line of brushed holds left of the corner, left of the key
-the traverse rightwards from the key into groundhog (slightly possible there are not enough holds)
-any of the three projects on the long back wall
-colt, since losing a hold
-alana direct finish

Also, neither of these have been repeated, as far as I know
-Crackhorse
-Lifeline sitter
Hogwarts isn't that easy but maybe I'm doing it wrong.
Jim told me today that the line left of the key was done by Geoff Hibbert ages ago at 6a.
Ryan P is alleged to have done Alanatotally independently with the DF.  I don't know if it's true.
I'll get around to Lifeline sometime  :-\

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#29 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 14, 2007, 10:55:52 pm
Quote
Jim told me today that the line left of the key was done by Geoff Hibbert ages ago at 6a.

There are 6a lines on that wall but unless I was missing something when I failed to get off the ground, that aint one of them. Immediately left of the corner crack.

Quote
Ryan P is alleged to have done Alanatotally independently with the DF.  I don't know if it's true.

Are you referring to the note I made in the topo? This is something I think I heard a long time ago. Andi_E asked Ryan but I don't think he could remember anything. On a related note, somebody pointed out to me recently that Ryan has listed Hank's Wall as his favourite problem. http://britishbouldering.com/profiles/ryan.htm - shame some numpty has relocated it to bridestones.

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#30 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 14, 2007, 11:05:48 pm
Quote
Jim told me today that the line left of the key was done by Geoff Hibbert ages ago at 6a.

There are 6a lines on that wall but unless I was missing something when I failed to get off the ground, that aint one of them. Immediately left of the corner crack.

That's an uber-eliminate eliminate. There's an easier version which pulls on further right but finishes left, which I did.

Quote
Ryan P is alleged to have done Alanatotally independently with the DF.  I don't know if it's true.

Are you referring to the note I made in the topo? This is something I think I heard a long time ago. Andi_E asked Ryan but I don't think he could remember anything.

This is the man who couldn't remember if he'd done Brad Pit...

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#31 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 12:28:21 pm
Yeah, I saw the Hank's Wall, Bridestones thing.  Made me smile.
Almost got the crimp by the crack on RHH last night.  Bit more skin and I may have a proper go at the 4th(?) ascent.

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#32 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 06:00:57 pm
This thread is amazing!!!  How on earth can you guys have identified so many holds in such a small space of rock.  The place seems to have knocked minus ten off the top of the eliminate pile.

r-man

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#33 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 06:37:30 pm
Not quite, but it's good to have an ambition. The Pigswill obsession always baffles me - right next to it is a slightly overhanging wall with many holds and an obvious finishing jug, yet people seem to be drawn to pigswill for eliminates. Strange but true.

Mind you, I do get a bit miffed that people think they've ticked brownstones when they've done hank's and pigswill (not aimed at you clm!). There's a lot more rock than first appearances suggest, and at least 10 V6 and above non-eliminates. More if you include sitstarts to these. And projects. How many have done even half of these:

Dezertion
Tulip (trav)
Hanks Wall
Pigswill
Crackhorse (highball)
Groundhog start
Grand Theft (highball)
Big Muff
Lifeline sitter
Thunder (highball)
Colt
Directissima sitter (daft but hard)
« Last Edit: March 15, 2007, 06:47:37 pm by r-man »

GCW

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#34 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 07:46:23 pm
This thread is amazing!!!  How on earth can you guys have identified so many holds in such a small space of rock.  The place seems to have knocked minus ten off the top of the eliminate pile.

Right!!  You asked for it, so here it is:



PP (V7):  Sit start 11LH-8 RH-9 RF-F LF-D LH-8 RH-4 RF-E LH-2  Finish up parabola
Pigswill No Tricks (V6):  Sit start 11 LH-8 RF-F RH-9 LF-10 RH-4 LH-2 Finish as usual
GCW's proper Pigswill No Tricks (V8?):  Sit Start 11 LH-8 RH-9 LF-F Flag right foot, then LH-2  Finish as usual (may have been done years ago, but nice couple of moves)
Hogwart's (V7):  Sit start 10.   RH-A   LH-8  LF-10 RH-9 Finish up Pigswill
Pigswill V9 Eliminate:  Sit Start 11 RH-9 LH-3  RH-7 One of Peaky's apparently

Feel free to add more.
I noticed hold C was well chalked (cough, cough, vitamin, cough, K).

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#35 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 07:53:59 pm
Oh, R-man:

Caleb's "Eliminate":  SDS 11  LH-8 RH-9 RF-F Toe lock LH-3 RH-2 LH-5 Finish as usual.

Oddly enough, I often do that as my usual method (but missing out 3 cos I'm lanky)  :shrug: V6 if you aren't vertically challenged.

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#36 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 10:06:35 pm
 :o

Oh my giddy aunt. Or, to misquote my school biology teacher -

"Is that a squadron of pigs I see flying past the window?"

GCW, you win the dedication to Pigswill award! Nice work.
Peaky's eliminate is surely the one Caleb told me about.

Though you do realise, you have missed some holds. ;) For instance...

Pete Hurley using a right hand undercut? Whatever this sequence is, it looks nails.


And someone else using the not very helpful mono. Who is that guy?



Think there is also a good undercling just up and left of 11. You can see the chalk.

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#37 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 10:07:49 pm
But why oh why did you have to use yellow?! Oh my eyes!

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#38 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 10:38:30 pm
where is that mono?

r-man

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#39 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 11:15:27 pm
Just below 6 I think.

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#40 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 15, 2007, 11:39:07 pm
Oh aye, I can see it now, old bolt hole?

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#41 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 16, 2007, 08:39:07 am
Sorry.  It was originally done using the red holds, so I just added more in yellow.  Can't count past 12.
The Hurley undercut is between 9 and C, it's quite good.  There's a lot of other holds that aren't marked but as they weren't used in any problems I know of, I ignored them.



That dude using the mono has some interesting hair.  Looks weak too.  Not Andi_e is it?   :lol:

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#42 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 16, 2007, 09:16:56 am
Impressive dedication Mr G - the photo made me smile one of those knowing smiles because the key hold in my project (say this with a French accent, I think it adds something) is not marked.

Yes, even more potential that the picture suggests - Brownstones is indeed getting to the point where it can rival and overtake Stoney for eliminates.

Robin -thankfully I can say I've ticked most of the problems on your list but as you say, you can't write the place off can you? Of course the big thread running at the moment for me is the Longridge one. I've been a good boy for too long and it's time to go back and pull down...oh yes!

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#43 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 16, 2007, 09:25:16 am
The key hold in my project (say this with a French accent, I think it adds something) is not marked.

I am intrigued.   :-\  There's loads of potential on this small piece of rock.
I've avoided CYL like you AK, but nothing seems to be happening about access.  But I don't want to go there and annoy the owners and damage any access negotiations.
Vitamin-  Right Hand Hank's-  There's a small hold next to Layback 8" lower than the crimp you rock for.  Is it in or out?  It's not strictly in the crack so I wasn't sure.  It makes the move a tad easier (British 6c  :lol:) but not much.  Or is this an Uber-eliminate where the only sequence allowed is the R-Man video one??

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#44 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 16, 2007, 11:37:52 am
The key hold in my project (say this with a French accent, I think it adds something) is not marked.

I am intrigued.   :-\  There's loads of potential on this small piece of rock.
I've avoided CYL like you AK, but nothing seems to be happening about access.  But I don't want to go there and annoy the owners and damage any access negotiations.
Vitamin-  Right Hand Hank's-  There's a small hold next to Layback 8" lower than the crimp you rock for.  Is it in or out?  It's not strictly in the crack so I wasn't sure.  It makes the move a tad easier (British 6c  :lol:) but not much.  Or is this an Uber-eliminate where the only sequence allowed is the R-Man video one??

R-Master's sequence is pretty spot on, apart from some foot jiggery pokery that he did a little differently to me. The lower rockover move is the crux but the top move can easily spit you off. You should be OK as you have a significant advantage in the lank department.

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#45 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 16, 2007, 11:46:22 am
You should be OK as you have a significant advantage in the lank department.
You watched the vid?
Reach is easier but I find rocking onto the right foothold hard as my lanky legs are very bunched.  I'll have another look when it's dry.  The move from the crimps to the usual Hank's hold (small, but good crimp) looks nails.  Especially with a dodgy left shoulder  :(
The Peaky Piggy Eliminate is hard.  The bottom move is full stretch for me, and I still have to go for it dynamically.  The next move to the crimp is just hideous as you only have the pinch 
Still got a few things to do there.  What a great venue  :great: :'(

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#46 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 16, 2007, 11:14:53 pm
Updated version:



PP (V7):  Sit start 11LH-8 RH-9 RF-F LF-D LH-8 RH-4 RF-E LH-2  Finish up parabola
Pigswill No Tricks (V6):  Sit start 11 LH-8 RF-F RH-9 LF-10 RH-4 LH-2 Finish as usual
GCW's proper Pigswill No Tricks (V8?):  Sit Start 11 LH-8 RH-9 LF-F Flag right foot, then LH-2  Finish as usual (may have been done years ago, but nice couple of moves)
Hogwart's (V7):  Sit start 10.   RH-A   LH-8  LF-10 RH-9 Finish up Pigswill
Pigswill V9 Eliminate:  Sit Start 11 RH-9 LH-3  RH-7 One of Peaky's apparently
Caleb's Eliminate:  SDS 11  LH-8 RH-9 RF-F Toe lock LH-3 RH-2 LH-5 Finish as usual.
Andy Kay's Eliminate:  Not telling until he's done it

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#47 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 17, 2007, 11:27:00 am
Right Hand Hank still feels nails on that first move.  Been watching your vid R-man:



I noticed you didn't finish straight up and therefore haven't actually done the problem.  So just Andy Kay and Caleb so far then.....   :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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#48 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 17, 2007, 11:40:08 am
Whatever Trevor.

Talk to the hand cos the face aint listnin.

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#49 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 17, 2007, 11:43:59 am
That was quick!!
That looks like a fair snatch to the right hand crimp on the rock-over.  I haven't quite got the height on it yet, but getting there.

Still not as hard as the Trad Mantel though.  I'm embarrassed to say I still haven't done that!!!!   :-[
Or Dexertion
Or Groundhog
.....

 

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