UKBouldering.com

Brownstones photo topo (Read 53816 times)

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
Brownstones photo topo
May 15, 2006, 06:02:48 pm
Finally got round to sorting out the Brownstones guide with photos and illustrations. It's less comprehensive, but hopefully more useable. There are still around 30 V6 and above. Oh, and I used font grades too. Added lots of Nexus dynos and various other new things. Also, I've numbered holds on the Nexus Wall and the Unjust Wall, as I know people have done some good eliminates. Let me know what they are and I'll add them.

Guide here: http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/brownstonestopo.pdf

Here are the Nexus and Unjust walls:



(Photos here, in case people want to add holds that I've missed)
Nexus Wall: http://members.lycos.co.uk/slb2/photos/nexus-web.jpg
Unjust Wall: http://members.lycos.co.uk/slb2/photos/unjust-web.jpg
« Last Edit: July 13, 2006, 12:13:09 pm by r-man »

andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#1 Re: Brownstones photo topo
May 15, 2006, 06:25:41 pm
Good effort lad, it must have only taken you about, oooh, a year or so?  ;)

JohnM

Offline
  • ****
  • junky
  • Posts: 911
  • Karma: +71/-0
#2 Re: Brownstones photo topo
August 24, 2006, 11:42:32 am
Was thinking of going to Brownstones this evening as it is fairly local to me and I have never actually been.  Whats the rock like is it really dirty like most of the Lancs quarries?

account_inactive

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 2706
  • Karma: +85/-25
#3 Re: Brownstones photo topo
August 24, 2006, 11:52:43 am
If you live nearby you are a fool not to have been before

Its as good as it gets for bouldering in Bolton

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#4 Re: Brownstones photo topo
August 24, 2006, 12:05:10 pm
I'll try and be objective here. ;)

Brownstones is certainly not dirty. The rock is often polished, but very clean. It also dries quickly after rain. If you really must top out, you might be in for a harrowing experience - usually best to downclimb rather than tackle the wall of heather. Take midge spray - if there's no wind, they can be awful.

The problems are good, often technical (read fingery) and knacky. In the lower grades there are loads of good highball slabs and cracks, and in the harder grades, mostly thin wall climbing, a couple of aretes and some good dynos.

Here's a movie (right click and save target. If in IE you may to change .htm to .mov if it isn't already recognised as a quicktime movie)





Some ukc photos here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/item.html?crag=1131&rockfax=178&nstart=0&sort=v
« Last Edit: August 24, 2006, 12:12:03 pm by r-man »

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#5 Re: Brownstones photo topo
August 24, 2006, 12:38:42 pm
And a few other small movies:

The Bad - V6 -

Lancashire Pothot - V5 -

Right Hand Hank - V8 -


r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#6 Re: Brownstones photo topo
September 19, 2006, 01:05:52 pm
Was back in Bolton last week and went down to Brownstones. Damn, its hard work if you haven't been for a while. But anyway, I bumped into someone who told me about several of the old skool classics, and about a guy named Johnny Peate (I think) who had done a sitstart to Directissima at V10 and a V11 eliminate in the Niche, down by the pool. I'd love to find out what that is - does anyone know this guy? There are lots of photos of him on yorkshiregrit I think. Apparently he has since given up climbing and taken up fishing. I wonder if the two pastimes have owt in common, or if one was a reaction to the other...?

Anyway, some other stuff. I'll add this to the topo when I get time, but for now:

Unjust dyno - G - A. This is excellent. Hang the big sloper and leap for the top. Tried this myself a few times and thought it was the hardest dyno at Brownstones - though more about technique than pulling hard, so I suppose it could feel easy. It's the one I fail on in the little video I posted above.

Pigswill eliminate - Undercuts - rh pinch - lh middle crimp (of the three) - rh pocket - lh break. V8 from standing, V9 from undercuts.

Parr's Crack, No Crack - Climb Parr's without the crack. V5/6

Jim Squat - Nexus eliminate - (lh 15, rh 18) - rh 4 - lh 13. V6?

And another Pigswill eliminate, courtesy of Scott Sadler:

Hogwarts - V7

Quote
>start on shelf in niche, up direct with right to pinch/crimp.
>   left to undercut as for start to pigswill
>   bump left foot into niche
>   reach for side pull on pigswill
>   fancy footwork fancy footwork, finish pigswill







« Last Edit: September 19, 2006, 01:25:32 pm by r-man »

namnok

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 602
  • Karma: +35/-1
  • John May Lives
#7 Re: Brownstones photo topo
September 19, 2006, 04:01:02 pm
sorry robin

hogwarts is mine not scotts...scott's too shit to climb good ;D

ste li

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#8 Re: Brownstones photo topo
September 19, 2006, 04:34:25 pm
Woops, sorry. Must have got emails mixed up.  :-[

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#9 Re: Brownstones photo topo
September 22, 2006, 03:18:36 pm
Some more eliminates, this time on the Obscenity wall. These were sent to me by Geoff Mann a while back, but I never got round to checking them out. They are called Mann's Bits 1,2 and 3. Geoff doesn't do V grades, so if anyone does these, please let me know what you think...


andy_e

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 8836
  • Karma: +275/-42
#10 Re: Brownstones photo topo
October 09, 2006, 02:09:24 am
The red one is "No Pocket Hole Wall" and is about 5a/b, if I remember rightly.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#11 Re: Brownstones photo topo
January 05, 2007, 06:33:48 pm
Did a couple of new things at Brownstones over Christmas, both are well worth a go.

Lifeline sitstart - V7 7a+ - Sitstart straight up from fat underclings to the pockets. Gain the sidepull (crux) which leads you into the technicalities of the standup. Yet another reason to venture on to the long back wall. This one is right next to Big Muff as well (look for the painted number 17), so two good problems of a similiar grade in this little area, and they tend to stay dry when other things can be damp.

Ridiculous dyno
- V6 7a - Previously marked as a project in the topo, dyno from 1 to 4. A big move, but a big finishing jug. Good fun.

Despite December's heavy fog, Brownstones was pretty much all dry, and the friction was great. Had 5 days in a row of good conditions over the Christmas period. Just thought I'd mention that, as it could prove useful knowledge.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#12 Re: Brownstones photo topo
January 05, 2007, 09:15:03 pm
Look like problems R-Man.  I'll measure the Ridiculous Dyno next time it stops raining (mid-May?).

PS  What's all this about the niche being in for feet on Pigswill-No-Tricks?  Cheating surely?!?!?!? :o

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#13 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 11, 2007, 09:17:34 am
Pigswill eliminate - Undercuts - rh pinch - lh middle crimp (of the three) - rh pocket - lh break. V8 from standing, V9 from undercuts.
Jim Squat - Nexus eliminate - (lh 15, rh 18) - rh 4 - lh 13. V6?

The Eliminate is a tall person's problemo- loooong move off the undercuts to the pinch then a painful pull to stand up.  Foot faggotry essential.  I'm not sure what you mean by V8 from standing?

Is that all Jim Squat does?  I thought it had a move or two after hold 13??

Ridiculous Dyno is harder than V6!!  A short person's problem if there ever was one!!

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#14 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 11, 2007, 11:38:38 pm
Pigswill eliminate - Undercuts - rh pinch - lh middle crimp (of the three) - rh pocket - lh break. V8 from standing, V9 from undercuts.
The Eliminate is a tall person's problemo- loooong move off the undercuts to the pinch then a painful pull to stand up.  Foot faggotry essential.  I'm not sure what you mean by V8 from standing?

This is one of Caleb's - when I talked to him he had done the standup, but not the sitter I think. Ask him to clarify. I might be wrong about which undercuts you use - Caleb isn't exactly a tall person.

Quote
Jim Squat - Nexus eliminate - (lh 15, rh 18) - rh 4 - lh 13. V6?

Is that all Jim Squat does?  I thought it had a move or two after hold 13??

Think that's it. Again, ask Caleb, this comes from one of his mates.

Ridiculous Dyno is harder than V6!!  A short person's problem if there ever was one!!

Perhaps it's not a tall person's problem, but that doesn't mean it's a short person's problem...  ;)
As for grade, dunno. It felt V6ish to me, but perhaps it's a grade harder.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#15 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 06:37:00 am
Caleb isn't exactly a tall person.
Very diplomatic  :lol:
Quote
Think that's it. Again, ask Caleb, this comes from one of his mates.
I was talking to him about it and he showed me different holds again!!  [16-18] RH-4  LH-1  RH-A  Only very specific feet too with some crazy froglegging to start.
I'll have a look when it rains next.  Seems sensible to go to B to finish though.
He also told me about the sitstart to The Good, but I forgot which holds it uses.  Sorry.

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#16 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 09:37:24 am
I wish he'd make his mind up. Anyway, the problem I thought was Jim Squat is around V6ish, whatever footholds you use. Not sure I can be bothered with specific footholds.

I presume you mean LH-13, rather than 1. I didn't think there was any point going to A as it it's an easy move. Maybe going to B would be good.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#17 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 09:42:47 am
I presume you mean LH-13, rather than 1. I didn't think there was any point going to A as it it's an easy move. Maybe going to B would be good.
Sorry, I meant LH-12.  Fingers broken after Dezertion  :furious:
I tried his problem once but I am physically unable to put my limbs on the specified holds, so I gave up on it.  Will have another go without specific feet.  Long move to B from 13 but not that hard.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#18 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 10:19:24 am
When are you updating the guide by the way?   8)

Vitamin K

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
#19 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 12:52:42 pm
I'm puzzled about this Pigswill eliminate thing - which is the middle crimp being referred to? What we need is a photo with the holds indicated, a la Hogwarts.

I'm also working on a Pigswill eliminate but the details are top secret at present until despatched. Suffice to say that involves pulling on very small crimps and standing on not very much.

By the way Robin, the ridiculous eliminate is a superb problem. One of the best @ Brownstones imho :great:.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#20 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 01:33:21 pm
I look forward to your eliminate Mr K.  The middle crimp is the pretty positive one from what I understand, the one above the small one used on PP [PP hold is marked 2 on the pic].  The Eliminate R-Master is describing is a big reach from the bottom undercut (not using the diagonal one out left

ie use the holds in the black box, not the circled stuff left.  Straight up to the pinch as usual.  Big crank through to the crimp.  I haven't done it as it rips yer tips (and I'm crap).
Ridiculous Eliminate is excellent.  I still think it's more V8 than V7 but that's just me.  :shrug:

r-man

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Glory lurks beneath the moss
  • Posts: 5030
  • Karma: +193/-3
    • LANCASHIRE BOULDERING GUIDEBOOK
#21 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 01:40:05 pm
I'll update the guide sometime soon. There are still lots of loose ends to tie up - the confusion around Caleb's pigswill eliminate being one example.

Pigswill needs its own page I think, with numbered holds. Amazing that there are so many eliminates on this bit of rock.

Mr K, glad you liked Ridiculous Eliminate. Care to add your grade opinion to the melting pot?
When I was on it last I wondered if it would be possible to finish on the small ledge straight up, rather than going out left. Would require some footwork and probably a wild lunge. I didn't try the move, but it looked vaguely possible...
« Last Edit: March 12, 2007, 01:45:35 pm by r-man »

Vitamin K

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
#22 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 12, 2007, 04:06:07 pm
Pigswill is great isn't it. When I first did Pigswill, er, back in the day I thought it was one of Brownstone's trickier problems and was well chuffed to do it. Now there are eliminates all over the shop - funny how things move on.

What I can work on now is a link from the bottom bit of Caleb's eliminate into the sequence that I have been working - that should be good. I had just been using the standard sitter but really this doesn't add anything to the grade.

As regards a grade for RE, I'm going to plump for ....oh, I don't know, I hate grading and prefer to leave it to others but I'm erring on V8 because it will do my ego good.

GCW

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • No longer a
  • Posts: 8172
  • Karma: +364/-38
#23 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 13, 2007, 08:56:18 pm
As regards a grade for RE, I'm going to plump for V8 because it will do my ego good.
Bang on target A.K.-47!!  It feels hard until you get the feel of that left hand hold.  Excellent moves though.
When I see Caleb next I'll get him to explain the Piggy Eliminate.
Mr K- when are you working this Elimiate of yours?  Not seen any chalk on it??

Vitamin K

Offline
  • **
  • addict
  • Posts: 123
  • Karma: +2/-0
#24 Re: Brownstones photo topo
March 14, 2007, 11:43:42 am
Well, I tend to get up there when other people don't  - either I'm a sociophobe, looking to create a bit of a mystique, don't get up there as often as I would like or it rains between times. Personally I think it's probably the latter; the chalk wouldn't necessarily be noticeable and any tick marks are incredibly discreet. 


 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal