[r-man]

So summer's upon us and everyone's bouldering at Rubitorneybrook. I love em lots, but I'd much rather go mid week when there aren't queues for problems (or at least, the queues are a little shorter...). So assuming I can't get away at the weekend, it would be good to boulder somewhere else - would be nice to play on new bits of rock as much as anything.

And there's a whole load of limestone in the peak, with lots of overhanging routes and things, so there must be some good problem starts, eliminate areas and traverses scattered around, even if they do require more than a 2min walk in.

What's out there and what's worth investigating?

[Bonjoy]

 There are some old threads on this if you do a search.
 Dog's Dinner buttress down cheedale is pretty good and nicely shaded.
 Rheinstor is ok if you are after vertical pocket pulling in a pleasant setting.
 Pleasley Vale is a great eliminate venue, near Mansfield (not really peak).
 Roche Abbey is similar to Pleasley and has some classic independant lines.
 Brassington area dolomite is ok for very easy stuff.
 Then there's Toad Hall (or whatever it's called), a good looking partially developed steep buttress by the A6 west of Ashford in the water, a bit like Crag X but not as good, has access problems.
 There's the roadside cave near the Horshoe Quarry parking spot, I remember polish Dave raving about some probs he did here back in the day, a handful of very steep hard probs.
 Blackwell dale has a few existing problems, including a traverse (Griff's?) mentioned in an old OTE. There is stuff to do on various bits of rock down here including, Beginner's wall, the bit opposite Sean's roof, Sean's roof cave itself and probably the best of the lot a couple of caves directly above Sean's roof (it takes a bit of determination to get to them due to steep nettles, but it looks like it could be developed into a good highballing crag with the aid of a step ladder and the odd bit of sika).
 For some proper esoterica try the cave behind Reynard's Arch in Dovedale, had a look last year, it looks pretty sweet, or the base of New Bridge butress in Matlock. I always thought Cave dale near Castleton might yeild some stuff, but it's ages since I had a look. I'm sure there are bits to develop down Chee and WCJ, but if they would be worth the big walk ins I don't know. The strange Red buttress on the opposite bank and west of Raven tor has potential, I had a look at this last year. Long walk round or wade to access.
 That should keep you going for a bit! Let me know how you get on.

[Lostboy]

Whereabouts is the lone pine boulder, near buxton?  I've seen a picture of somebody on a problem on it somewhere   ???

[Jim]

A good place to start is the High over Buxton guide

[dave]

I always thought Cave dale near Castleton might yeild some stuff, but it's ages since I had a look.

i had a walk there a few weeks ago, kept my eye open but didn't see fuck all. And i'm pretty sure i saw everything.

I'm pretty sure there are nice new bouldering crags out there though with classics to do.

[Ru]

Not much to add really, there's a dolomite limestone cave near RHS that could have about 10 probs in but needs major cleanage and not sure about access. I found another cave in Dovedale at Dovedale Castle, this would have an ace problem, maybe a classic font 8a, with a bit of sika, but it is a nightmare to get to - think river crossings and scrambling up near vertical scree paths - and would be a little highball to top out, with the aforementioned scree path beckoning a fall.

[Bonjoy]

 I may have seen the crag near RHS. Is it very steep and crozzly, with bits of old farm junk under it? Near  the road on the edge of Youlgreave? I think it's proper name is Nuda's Tartan crag and had some routes put up on the big bit at the back by Matt Szabo in the 80s. It did look to have some potential if the crozzly rock is cleanable.

[Paul B]

think that might have been the one that was mentioned to me jon.

[Ru]

I may have seen the crag near RHS. Is it very steep and crozzly, with bits of old farm junk under it? Near  the road on the edge of Youlgreave? I think it's proper name is Nuda's Tartan crag and had some routes put up on the big bit at the back by Matt Szabo in the 80s. It did look to have some potential if the crozzly rock is cleanable.

Seem to have missed this post but, yeah, sound like the same place.

[r-man]

Forgot to add, cheers for all the pointers Bonjoy and co. I keep trying to get people interested. So far, no-one wants to go on:

- A trip to check out possible new bouldering venues
- An adventure!
- A treasure hunt
- A picnic somewhere unusual
- A night-time mission
- An exploration that might lead to a hidden galleon, possible via booby traps and a skeleton, at the end of which I promise to conceal some sort of riches in my marbles bag

But one of these days...

[Paul B]

I went on a mission to check some of bonjoys suggestions but stopped off at cragx and got distracted, however the cave (Tom's cave) near horseshoe is utter shite, don't bother stopping, its full of cans, big boulders and other miscellaneous crap.
Had a look at the location of toad hall as well, unfortunately its just off open access land so I don't know how access would work out.

[r-man]

From here: http://www.dangeroussite.com/roche_climbing.htm

Other Climbing in the Area
There are buttresses across the valley but these tend to remain a little green and damp because of their NE facing aspect but may be worthy of exploration for the enthusiast. These are located above the water treatment works up the valley on the other side of the road from the Gypsy Lane buttress about 500m away. Also down the valley near the village of Stone there is a bridleway skirting the other side of the valley. Shadowing the bridleway is an amazing wave of wildly overhanging limestone. This needs cleaning up a bit and only really talented climbers need apply!

There is climbing at Anston Stones Wood near the village of South Anston (10 Kms S of Maltby) adjacent to a railway line near the A57 I've never really done a lot of climbing here and never found anyone climbing here to get more info off but have heard it mentioned, even in climbing magazines. If anyone has further info let me know!

Anyone know owt about these?

[(woz)]

- An exploration that might lead to a hidden galleon, possible via booby traps and a skeleton, at the end of which I promise to conceal some sort of riches in my marbles bag

I love that film!

Isn't there supposed to be another tom's cave esque bouldering spot on windy ledge(eek) at stoney. I think the routes guide mentions it has several good problems and a one finger pull up.

edit: just checked the guide - "There is a long low level traverse from Circe to Windhover...The roof right of Our Father has a few hideous problems, including a nightmarish, tendon snapping one finger deadhang (or pull up)"

so there you go

[dave]

From here: http://www.dangeroussite.com/roche_climbing.htm

Other Climbing in the Area
There are buttresses across the valley but these tend to remain a little green and damp because of their NE facing aspect but may be worthy of exploration for the enthusiast. These are located above the water treatment works up the valley on the other side of the road from the Gypsy Lane buttress about 500m away. Also down the valley near the village of Stone there is a bridleway skirting the other side of the valley. Shadowing the bridleway is an amazing wave of wildly overhanging limestone. This needs cleaning up a bit and only really talented climbers need apply!

There is climbing at Anston Stones Wood near the village of South Anston (10 Kms S of Maltby) adjacent to a railway line near the A57 I've never really done a lot of climbing here and never found anyone climbing here to get more info off but have heard it mentioned, even in climbing magazines. If anyone has further info let me know!

Anyone know owt about these?

the big wave of rock is crag david.

On the subject of the bouldering on windy ledge, don't bothere theres nothing really. i walked up there this spring and found nowt worth doing. the old stoney guide makes out like theres a bouldering wall between Choss and Scoop wall but its bollocks. the roof right of our father is downright unpleasant.

[Bonjoy]

Not much to add really, there's a dolomite limestone cave near RHS that could have about 10 probs in but needs major cleanage and not sure about access. I found another cave in Dovedale at Dovedale Castle, this would have an ace problem, maybe a classic font 8a, with a bit of sika, but it is a nightmare to get to - think river crossings and scrambling up near vertical scree paths - and would be a little highball to top out, with the aforementioned scree path beckoning a fall.

Told Iain Farrar about this place as I know how he loves obscure roof probs. He went down last weekend and climbed the obvious long roof/prow prob on the left buttress. Reckoned the rock on that bit was good and took little cleaning and that the prob is excellent, about 7b/7b+. He finished using lip holds, but a finish staying under the roof would probably bump it up to 7c. On closer inspection the crag is actually not dolomitic limestone, but infact one huge chunk of tufa! A contender for most esoteric (but still good) problems on peak limestone I reckon.
 Will try and get a name and photo.
 Iain then got in his car and set off to have a look at the cave behind Reynard's Arch. Unfortunately he never got there, as a wheel fell off his car!!

[Ru]

Cool, that line was the obvious one.

[r-man]

Borrowed an old peak limestone guide from someone and there's mention of three problems on a small concrete bunker at Horseshoe Quarry:

"Just after the fork in the track and slightly right of the left hand fork is a small concrete bunker. This gives three surprisingly good problems. From left to right: The Arete, 6c, The Rib, 6b, and The Wall Between, 6b."

Anyone ever tried these?

Is this concrete bunker still there, and if so, how surprisingly good are the problems?

[fatboySlimfast]

Is this concrete bunker still there, and if so, how surprisingly good are the problems?

yes the bunkers still there and no the problems are not suprisingly good

[Bonjoy]

Like FB says

[Monolith]

Maybe someone could clarify what we saw recently in the Peak. We were walking towards Stoney Middleton from a campsite a few miles back up the road towards Hathersage. There was a cave on the left side of the road and a large layby on the opposite side. There were some vague remnants of chalk on some holds and there was a big blankish roof. Oh yeah, also on the floor was a syringe!? Not quite sure that it's the most obvious place for a junkie to hang out but anyhow...
Sorry to be so vague as usual

[dave]

ins that the cave that plish dave done some stuff in? its been mentioned on here somewhere. near whorseshit quarry?

[Monolith]

Saw the mention of some Polish Dave territory. I've absolutely no idea what the area and cave are called, but I'd be keen to see any photos of anyone who might have taken some there. On the subject of Polish Dave, is this the same PD that lived and studied in Leeds Uni? I think Pemb used to climb a bit with him and heard that he was an uber strong man.

[(woz)]

I visited the large cave behind the Wetton Mill Teashop a couple of weeks ago. Very limited potential but a nice traverse and maybe a couple of worthwhile up problems. Not really worth a specific trip tho

[Bonjoy]

 What's with the over the shoulder chalkbag ? 

[Paul B]

ins that the cave that plish dave done some stuff in? its been mentioned on here somewhere. near whorseshit quarry?

if thats the one near the road dont even bother... utter shite.