[LL55]

Hello,

I was working Boneyard yesterday morning with some mates, does the 'Start as for Ogwen Jazz' mean you can use the juggy crimp up and right, on Ogwen Jazz - so side pocket and shelf to start, right out to smaller crimp, up to large juggy crimp with right, then left, drop down into the sidepull on Skunk X with right, then to slopy shelf....... and so on... and painful leap with all your might to the lip?

Or does it avoid the large juggy crimp, and just use the low holds? it's V8 and I would have thought that the 8 was given for the toe-hooking and big move at the end, rather than the low system.........

Muchas Gratis

Ed

[Bubba]

you could just edit your post

[LL55]

you could just edit your post

Aha! I'm just a newbie, call me Sandra or Bambi....

[SA Chris]

How about Sparkie or Sport?

[Pantontino]

If you stay low it is quicker, but slightly more powerful; going high means more moves: swings and roundabouts really.

The only thing I think people should be strict about is actually starting with their right hand close to the arete.

Brilliant problem; so intense! I love that strange little square crystal by the arete, or did I imagine that?

[Doylo]

its graded for the easisest line so yes it does go slightly high at the start before dropping back down to the slopes. For me the crux was slapping out right to the good hold, my feet kept coming off. Don't remember any toe hook action though.

[Pantontino]

That's because you're too strong Doylo. Remember the weak man will always find a sneaky sequence, and according to Paul Mitchell (circa 1970 something) "There are no moves in Wales beyond 5c, the rock just does not lend itself to hard moves."

(There's even a piccy in the guide of Gav utilising said toe hooks.)

[LL55]

Don't remember any toe hook action though.

How did you do the end moves without the toe hook? Did you throw for the huge side pull jugs at the end from the Skunk X side pull, or slap right onto the slopy shelf then go again? Or was it magic you used?

[Doylo]

definetely wasn't magic. Just slapped from the slopers to the jug you dyno off. Neil Dyer flashed it this way too so it can't be that bad

[Pantontino]

Yeah, that Ding Dong character is just so rubbish, it must be easy that way.

[Jim]

That's because you're too strong Doylo. Remember the weak man will always find a sneaky sequence, and according to Paul Mitchell (circa 1970 something) "There are no moves in Wales beyond 5c, the rock just does not lend itself to hard moves."

(There's even a piccy in the guide of Gav utilising said toe hooks.)

Thats Dynamite Si.

Just slapped from the slopers

Doylo using slopers, I don't believe it

[Pantontino]

I bet he crimped them though.

[Doylo]

some slopers i don't crimp and i should say i've tried FOASP a few times and could never do it, one of those things