[dave]

hear mi now

I know recently i gather theres some new problems been done at burbage west, i think by john "7b+" welford. Since i don't buy climber/high/ote (occasionally read it in smiths) can some one give me the 911 on whats gone on, where they are etc.

I gather the double arete thing right of West end Girls is one of them (saw some Gs trying it last week) but i gather theres another problem somewhere anall. Anyone know the score? cheers. :wink:

P.S. on a totally unrelated matter, if anyone has any numbers on cherokee lane or the pinch at cragx i'd be gratefull. In particular do you jump/pop start the pinch? Bo.

[Bubba]

Dobbin's your man for Crag X beta - I remember Cherokee Lane involves a strange gastony type thing on the painful spikey "arrow"....hence the name...

[dave]

I found the OTE report on planetfear site:

The Famous Grouse, Font 7c+ is the hanging slab beyond West End Girls at Burbage West. This one was un-knowingly snatched from the jaws of Moffatt, who'd kindly brushed it, but you gotta' act quick these days, you can't leave 'owt for a better day 'cos somebody else's better day will always arrive first. That said, not in the case of The Pig at Burbage South which John had been trying for the last four years and is good value at Font 7c+/8a for its three moves. Shorter still is True Git Font 7c+, Burbage West which is two moves long, but considering the length of Welford's arms that translates to a long way.

So i suspect Famous Grouse is the thing right of WEG. So where is True Git? is rthis PIg thing that project on the boulders mention in the guide?

Bo.

[dobbin]

yeah, thats about the size of it, you start with a gaston on the nasty thing with your left, feet over to the right, rh up to small three finger edge, adjust feet postion - get higher and more right, then rh up again to the layaway, lean into it and gain the top holds of Jericho Road.

Jolly Roger may be able to oblige more specifics...

Re the Pinch, thats all about foot position for the first move (apparently), start lh in tiny gaston thing, rh in highest of the two slopey crimps, feet rf on good bit, lf can apparently be cammed into the triangle thing below(!?) move up and left to grab pinch, rh up to bird beak intermediate, go again for the better hold and finish as for Jericho road.

[dave]

Nice one. CHeerz.

Anyone know about b.west then?

[fatboySlimfast]

how was cons at cragx when u were there dave?
We fuked off cos it felt awful, not quite as awfull as the circus at rubicon but there you go!

[dave]

it were alreyt, beggars can't be choosers thy knows.

I were only really trying m-trocitty, which were alright, but superman felt a bit smeggy which i'm sure must have been a bit of a blow to you.

ANyway it were better than rubicon, the kudos bit was roasting by the time we left, frying eggs on it. And Rob wanted to try rubicon but some team had "occupied" it for the day (where do they think they are, malham?).

[Johnny Brown]

Whaddafuuuck?
Where is west end girls?
Not on that shit bit round towards higgar?

On the same subject, has any one done either zaff's problem, Western eyes, or the thing to the left that patrick fitzian did?

[dave]

Yeah its "that shit bit". Its quite good really. Anyway i thought you only climbed at stanage? :wink:

not done any of the others.

[Johnny Brown]

Me...Stanage..?
Dunno what you mean. Haven't been there in ages.

Went and tried those problems last night, and you're right, they are better than they look. Did the arete from the sit start (2nd go - sloppy), then tried the other one which is chalked beyond belief. Felt like it would be alright on a cold day. A spotter would have been nice tho'.

[dave]

The arete from sitting is that Breakfast V6 which i think is ace. The other one chalked must have been Famous Grouse then.

What/where are the other ones you mention, i.e. "Western eyes, or the thing to the left that patrick fitzian did?"?

[Johnny Brown]

Western eyes is the best line at the crag- huge overhanging nose to hug yer way up - done by Zaff circa '96. Its inbetween westside story and the warm up area to the right.
No repeats except one by zaff as far as I know. dead 'ard, shit landing...

The wall to the left was claimed by Fitz a few years back- low start then scratching round the roof to a break. Which break I'm not sure - one I did years ago was to pull on from block behind, (left toe on lip of roof) and do a big scary rock to the break. This could be part of Ian's or an extension. From the break to the top is a great project - a couple of friend .5s and a big jump to a world of slopers! So full link would be well good.

All in all Burbage west would be a pretty impressive place to tick!

[Omega]

so where exactly is true git then?? before or after west end girls?

what's the deal with the B6 between crow man and WEG?  where does it go exactly and where does the 'project' to the right mentioned PBG go?

tried to find all this stuff yesterday but i think i need help.

[dave]

Think true git is the blunt arete on the Pig at B.South. Mentioned as a project/details unclear in the bouldering guide.

That project by the B6 i think is just a massive dyno off the low break.

WRT Wester Eyes, some strong beardy guy (adam wood?) did this on friday night.

Burbage: The Best Valley in the World?

[Omega]

burbage is very fine indeed.  a great selection of things to go at.

according to the OTE report, true git is at burbage west somewhere??

[Scouse D]

Burbage is a fine valley. Dicks on Stanage every time.
Hardcore, you know the score.

[dave]

I think in that OTE report its just worded badly, pretty sure its burbage south.

[Scouse D]

Word D. That probs deffo at the south.

[Stu Littlefair]

So, while we're at it, what's the name of the new welford problem at the far left hand end of Burbage South, on the egde, which climbs the arete using a vicious crimp for the RH?

[Scouse D]

Stu, that's Midget Gem. A typical Welford 7b+, i.e gnarly!
Have you done it? I've had a little play on it and got very close to the top jug a couple of times (but was pretty slappy!). That crimp is vicious with a capital VIC.
There's a right nice problem on a free standing triangular boulder just down and R (looking at the crag)- have you checked that out? Goes up the front face on lovely holds at about V4. Well worth seeking out.

[dave]

Tried that "V4" thing yesterday, lets just say theres only so much skin I'm prepared to throw at a V4 before fucking it off.

[Stu Littlefair]

Stu, that's Midget Gem. A typical Welford 7b+, i.e gnarly!
Have you done it? I've had a little play on it and got very close to the top jug a couple of times (but was pretty slappy!). That crimp is vicious with a capital VIC.
There's a right nice problem on a free standing triangular boulder just down and R (looking at the crag)- have you checked that out? Goes up the front face on lovely holds at about V4. Well worth seeking out.

Not done midget gem. I do have one extremely split tip now :cry: Is the foot ledge in?

The V4 is class. Not one for the sun, is it.....

[dave]

Yeah i belive the footledge is in as far as i know. I called it quits on that problem before the onset of a split tip.

Nice Pics anyway stu, i particularly like this one, demonstrating how great it is to be tall:

[fatboySlimfast]

good to see people re-discovering hidden gems, jason and i found that during the 80's but it had been  defo climbed on before we did it, cracking little prob.
anyone done the roof crack back down the edge mentioned in the rockfax guide? Now that is gnarly, think i taped up for it
And for the burbage south completist anyone done ape escape?

[dave]

And for the burbage south completist anyone done ape escape?

tell me what it is and I'll tell you if i've done it (i won't have).

[fatboySlimfast]

right, between pebble mill and the next buttress down the edge, cant remember what its called , the track goes up hill slightly, you pass a very small boulder on the downhill side of the track which has a small roof underneath it (more like a hollow really) crawl into this, its small so hands are on lip from sitting, and just mantle.
im not saying its brill but you wanna tick it for historical value

[dave]

I think i know what you mean - just a bit further on from that B7 "poor mans 8-ball" thing. You just like mantle a slopey lip right? im thinking of summert given B7 or 8 in the guide, and no i haven't tried it.

[fatboySlimfast]

its literally a hole under a small boulder, i went up wit wife and asked if she could see a named prob close to her and she said no even though she was stood on it......so not a obvious classic

[Scouse D]

that problem you're on about is well good-I reckon it's a classic.

[Johnny Brown]

anyone done the alliance? Best problem on the crag I reckon. Just uphill from that classic v4 above. big span between two aretes, hugging and slapping- pure grit.
Make that best problem in the valley; tho it might be a bit highball for you bumpy boys :wink:

[Omega]

had a crack at Famous Grouse on the weekend.  I seem to remember it getting 7b+ from standing and 7c+ from sitting - correct?  anyway, seems pretty generous to me cos the sit start is easy and adds nothing but a few extra moves to, it must be said, a cracking problem.  what's the rub?  perhaps the huge foot ledge is OB?

[dave]

i just assumed famous grous was 7c+ from standing, or was as far as i heard. never heard of a sitter being done, seems pretty pointless, like just for the sake of it.

[Omega]

indeed - the sit start is a bit pointless.

thought that v6 nearby was really good - the sitting start arete thingy.  looks easy but...

[dave]

yeah that one is bo. don't leave your foot behind in the jam if your hands rip, not unless you know a good aenesthetist.

[mark]

indeed - the sit start is a bit pointless.

thought that v6 nearby was really good - the sitting start arete thingy.  looks easy but...

Yes, obviously the product of someone with great vision, power and talent. Probably very handsome too. Ahem.