[Els]

Anyone been yesterday or today? Hoping to go tomorrow and would like to know if Lou Ferrino is dry after Friday's rain. Thanks!

[Ally Smith]

Everything was dry yesterday - including the 3 undercut/side-pulls on Lou Ferrino; maybe see you there tomorrow?

[Els]

Brill, thanks! Yep, setting off shortly so see you there hopefully

[James Malloch]

I'm guessing it's all dry, but if anyone could confirm that it's worth the drive from Leeds tomorrow I'd appreciate it.

[User deactivated]

Was dry today apparently, I'm wondering if it may condense tomorrow, if anyone is there early doors an update would be much appreciated.

[monkey boy]

I heard dry but smeggy yesterday, like it was trying to condense. Apparently it cleared and connys got better in the evening. I reckon leave it late

[User deactivated]

Good conditions all day today.

[James Malloch]

We ended up at Craig-y-Longridge but thanks for the update. Hope you had a good session!

[T_B]

How's the Cave at the mo and chances of it being dry tomorrow? Specifically LF. Asking for a friend. Ta.

[Doylo]

The old asking for a friend line  been a bit greasy but looking  colder tomorrow but rainy. Should be ok, potential for some clag if it's pissing down. 

[Andy P]

As Cher famously sang "if I could turn back time,,,,". Sadly an impossibility but growing up in Dyserth and exploring the local surrounds I always thought 'maybe one day?' about the Dyserth Waterfall cliff, The Gop, Pantymwyn, 'World's End' (Craig y ForwEn) and Devil's Gorge warranted some attention. Blimey, even my old route Genesis which I led with gear has a line of bolts up it now and gets plenty of traffic. I never, ever thought it would even be repeated.

[Doylo]

Decent route Genesis Andy. Wouldn't have fancied it on pegs.

[Andy P]

Cheers Doylo, I actually made a typo there as there was no gear at all until a short piece of fence post I placed behind a loose flake 5' from the top.
Regs from Upsidedownland.

[Doylo]

Not the best rock on that slab in places either. My dad broke his leg on it. Although Genesis is a bit better .

[mrjonathanr]

Hi Andy, thought you might like an irrelevant little anecdote - 'the time I learned most about climbing in half an hour' you could call it.

Jerry or Chris (I forget who) was belaying you on Oyster -1984 I think. I was climbing with Bob Drury, sat on the wall watching you go up to the crux, look totally comfortable pulling through it- and then fall off.  You did this 3 or 4 times.

It was odd because you didn't look like you were about to fall, far from it, but there you were, suddenly hanging on the rope. Then it dawned on me you were at your limit but giving it 100% concentration, just trying to execute the move as perfectly as you possibly could, all thoughts and fears about falling completely pushed aside.

That realisation that the best way to not fall is to just  think about the move, only the move, not the fall, to just be 100% in that moment - it was like a lightbulb going off in my head. I hadn't seen that clearly before and it's stayed with me ever since.

Jon R

[Andy P]

Hi Jon,
Lovely post that, thanks, it brings back great memories.
I think it would've been Gore or Leachy as we all wanted to repeat it 1st after Jerry. Yes, it had a very painful and trying crux and certainly the hardest single move I'd faced on a route. We all failed but I succeeded the next day and got the 2nd ascent.
Re: the thought - or fear - of falling never even entered my head (except perhaps on North Stack Wall) but it was rather tiresome on certain routes coz you had to pull your ropes through and do all the lower stuff again.
Imagine having to do that many times for 44 days over two years (and on the opposite side of the world ), I could write a book about that! Oh, hang on, I did 

Cheers,
AP.

[Doylo]

I found a friendly pain free way of doing Oyster. It's nails with that horrid jam.

[mrjonathanr]

Cheers Andy, it was a real 'oh I get it' moment, not like my usual faffing, grunting and 'watch me heres' before falling off.

Good times, dossing in the cave avoiding the goat dung. Took us 3 days before we looked round Pill Box wall area - just too many routes to do, we couldn't get that far before tackling another one. Remember watching Jerry repeat Statement too.

I'll have to read your book, might learn something else 

[Andy P]

I found a friendly pain free way of doing Oyster. It's nails with that horrid jam.

I recall you found a smart way of doing Acid Test too but a pain-free way on Oyster's got me totally stumped Doylo!

Jon; What on earth man? You mean you've not read Punk in the Gym ?
I post hideously overpriced but dedicated copies all around the world from here in Melbourne so PM me if you've got AU$100 to spare as am down to the last few 

Cheers,
AP.

[Doylo]

I found a friendly pain free way of doing Oyster. It's nails with that horrid jam.

I recall you found a smart way of doing Acid Test too but a pain-free way on Oyster's got me totally stumped Doylo!

You can undercut your way up it without even using that hold. On acid Test you can by pass the bridgey stemming by boning a crozzle.

[BAndy]

Anyone been in the cave today or over the weekend? Planning a one-day hit to North Wales on Wednesday, either here or The Pass/Ogwen.

[User deactivated]

Was ok this weekend in the cave, a bit still but that obviously can change day to day. Good in the pass from what several people told me. As long as their isn't a spike in temperatures the cave should be good.

[Coops_13]

How's the cave doing? Likely to be mostly dry this weekend?

[205Chris]

 Was fine on Tuesday, don't see why it wouldn't be OK this weekend.

[abarro81]

Temp rise with high humidity may put it at risk. .