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Grit route/highball Last Great Problems.... (Read 71751 times)

Fiend

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Dammit Jim you got me right confused there.

No-one confessing to SBA then?

Idol eyes

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looking good, I may come out pf retirement for that line....
how hard is it.

Bonjoy

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XS 6b+ to you  ;)

El Mocho

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That shot of Ry is quality, his forearm is as long as my leg. It is nice to see the true Baron of Boldness in the background making a rare grit apperance.

"The arete right of Kaluza Klein. has been done to the break (Pan o Raisan E4 6b??) with an escape right. But the leftward/direct line looks a goer, with a huge jug only a couple of moves from where the E4 goes right."

Did this as well the other day with the skuttle of left. Start not super tricky but the shuffling felt a bit exciting. I found it best not to look down to see how high I was, but I knew there was a little bush to land in to cushion the fall (we did have plenty of pads on the start which was nice)

"My Prune" (cos it is like a big version of the Raisan one) E5 6b/highball 7b????

(it probably doesn't really deserve a new name, it is only a variation finish)

Bonjoy

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Nice!!
 Adam mention this in this thread http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6819.0.html . It seems that Pan O Raison is more of an eliminatey thing starting on the arete and quickly sliding off right. My presumption that it climbed the arete as far as the break before going right was wrong. This being the case My Prune ( :great:) is the proper route/problem  on this bit of rock.

 Erm, suppose I should suggest something else for you. Have you tried those two lines at Birchen? One is the arete right of Gritstone Megamix and the other is the steep wall thing right of Obstructive Pensioner. Or there's that arete just right of the start of BAW's crawl. Will have a think.

Idol eyes

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Good old 6B, whats the move looking like from the right of the start, is that the hard bit?

Johnny Brown

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Eh? The crux move is getting the break.

Idol eyes

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The break? looks A1 anyways... you guys need to come down here, loads of high projects... will tune you over summer and will try and visit at the end of march. nice one El Mo, if they will have you at Eagle Tor, there is a very nice little wall for you to send.

Bonjoy

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For those who haven't seen this on the Yellowslacks thread. 'Miles's Project' at Ravenstones, I get the impression it's an open project.

Certainly seems to fit the bill for this thread!

Ru

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Woof. Nice bit of rock. Is this highball height or route height?

Fiend

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Knowing Ravenstones it's a gentle 6m highball height with a 200m potential fall down the grass slab that masquerades as a hillside beneath it, followed by being swept down the brook all the way into the Chew resevoir...

andy_e

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The landing on this is gnarly. If this is where I think it is there's a route up the left hand face (out of sight) which is about VS. Is this the fin a way below the crag?

Idol eyes

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Oh yes...

andy_e

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followed by being swept down the brook all the way into the Chew resevoir...

That'd be quite an effort to flow all the way down to Dovestones reservoir then back upstream past Wimberry into the chew reservoir....

grimer

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A few things about that prwo. It is highball height, but proper highball. Someone on a thread here a while ago mentioned it as being at Dovestones, and even when I asked miles about this, he thought it was at the Dovestones, but this seemed to fir the description.

He said it felt like 7c+ or 8a. There is a landing, but beyond that there is a 30 degree slope. I'm sure he said it was ok but you had to get spotted onto that platform. However, having seen consumed, i think Miles is quite brave.

Also, that pic is taken on its good side, and i remember there is a bit of a chimney or something on the left.

On the plus side, if your good side is this good looking, then your bad side woyulld need to be pretty bad, and, if you cycle from the car park, then its about a 5 minute walk up the hill.

grimer

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Also I can't remember whether the buttress was wearing a bseball cap, or that is a piece of rock up on the hill behind.

I think if anyone did that they should be allowed at least three syllables.

andy popp

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Its definitely at the Ravenstones, you can see Pulpit Ridge, Over the Moors and Black Mountain Collage peeping over its shoulder. I remember it looking highish but that was a long time ago and pre-mat. I do remember it looking as good as this shot suggests.

grimer

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Hi Andy,

I was certain that it was at the ravenstones, because i was at the Ravenstones when I took the pic.

No, what i meant was that in easrlier discussions about a Chew Prow Project, it had been said it was at the Dovestones, as I remember.

andy popp

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Sorry, my confusion. This must be the now famous 'Chew Prow Poject' though.

Fiend

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This must be the now famous 'Chew Prow Poject' though.

Or is that the Sickbay Shuffle arete??  ???

I'm sure I've seen more LGPs recently but I've forgotten them.

Oh what about Ron Ring Home Direct - finishes to the left independently of The Knock?

Somebody's Fool

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I don't know if this has already been mentioned on here or not. Last week Bolton's strongest streak of piss, Ryan Pasquill, did the (I'm assuming) second ascent of Sparrow forward slash my bestfriend the watermelon.  With Paul Smitton taking on sole spotting duty.  I guess this makes it the first ground up ascent as well.

This came on the same day as flashed ascents of Crack and Slab at Curbar, Kaluza Klein and Genocide.  Mad props.

AndiT

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This came on the same day as flashed ascents of Crack and Slab at Curbar, Kaluza Klein and Genocide.  Mad props.

Huh, an alright day, spose..

Bonjoy

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Wowsers!

SA Chris

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This came on the same day as flashed ascents of Crack and Slab at Curbar, Kaluza Klein and Genocide.  Mad props.

Huh, an alright day, spose..
Alright half day you mean. Did he do nothing in the afternoon? Slacker.

Somebody's Fool

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I guess it can now go in the guide with a font grade sans dagger.  Eh Bonjoy?

Paul Smitton also did Genocide ground up, second go.  I don't know if this is worth mentioning but I can't imagine it gets done very often.

 

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