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Grit route/highball Last Great Problems.... (Read 57492 times)

james

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...there are stories that the move has been done once but thats it.

...theres a lot of tall stories goin around at the moment! ;)  Maybe we need to upgrade him to "Theallseeing"


Paz

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the gaston/ chimney method, ... , the layback + jump method.

cheers, I was wondering that n' all.  Should check other thread's before asking silly question.  At the risk of asking another silly question, it's a groove, has anyone tried bridging it?

With that prow thing, if you wait fifteen or twenty years or so, then you'll have a classic route that could be done safely with a tree side runner.  Just remember kids, put the sling round the trunk so you don't deck out when a branch snaps on you, like Uncle Paz did. 

Percy B

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The Bransby did the very steep arete on the Cratcliffe boulder today. About 7c ish was the verdict, but very high and the landing is a horror show. Still the slab to the left, and the real biggie up the middle of the overhanging wall to do yet. Bouldering for the brave, I reckon!

andy popp

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For clarification, is this the one facing the camera in the Bonjoy photo above? Looks superb!

Percy B

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Thats the one. It is a lovely line. The vague ramp line to the right (not really visible in Bonjoys pic) is the real pearler though. Borderline boulder problem/route really, but worth the risk if you've got the talent.

andy popp

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In the light of the recent discussion here of what is and is not a boulder problem, what style was this very high problem done in; top-roped, abbed or ground up? And isn't it amazing lines like this still exist in the Peak

unclesomebody

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Must have been there after us then Percy. Line looks good. I abbed down to look at the ramp, but the left arete looked good and I'd actually guessed 7C so if someone wants to send me a small medal you know the address. The ramp line is possible. hard, but possible. It won't be a jump start, you'll be able to pull on and go to the ramp. Needs a clean at the top so if you're keen to clean it feel free!  ;)  Will make a good project. It would be possible to build a landing platform too... epic but perhaps worthwhile for an excellent hard grit problem.

dave

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The Bransby did the very steep arete on the Cratcliffe boulder today. About 7c ish was the verdict, but very high and the landing is a horror show.

you're shitting me? waddage.

Pantontino

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Shame we didn't know, eh Dave? Could've popped over from the Stride for a gander. Sounds very impressive, especially if he did it ground up.

dave

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i think me doing the same 5a slab problem 4 times is bigger news.

Bonjoy

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The Bransby did the very steep arete on the Cratcliffe boulder today. About 7c ish was the verdict, but very high and the landing is a horror show. Still the slab to the left, and the real biggie up the middle of the overhanging wall to do yet. Bouldering for the brave, I reckon!
:thumbsup: Awesome.
 Not the first time Bransby has climbed something i'd chalked down as very-big-numbers at 7c! Think I need my gradeometer recalibrating.
 Come on then what's the details? Name? Grade? Pics? Syle? How does it climb? Is it over once you get past the first few moves i.e. is it a goer for people with balls of normal proportion?

Johnny Brown

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In the light of the recent discussion here of what is and is not a boulder problem, what style was this very high problem done in; top-roped, abbed or ground up?

Hopefully we'll get the word from the man himself, but I know as much as that he went and abbed down it pretty much as soon as Bonjoy posted that pic up.

Bonjoy

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Talking of last great problems being climbed, can anyone confirm whether Keenus did his new route right of Superstition yesterday???

al

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fine effort ben - any chance the ground could be made safer, or is it too major? (thinking magic wood style with logs etc.)

Percy B

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I think Ben checked it out and cleaned it on ab, but eventually had a do on a rope before dispatching - and quite right too. Ground-upping stuff that's high but has a landing might be ok, but this boulder has an abismal landing area and is massive. This is defo one problem thats not sure whether or not its a route!

Fiend

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Can we have an old skool number for the theoretical matless onsight too, then?? ;)

Bonjoy

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 Did Ben stay on the right all the way or rock round onto the slab at two thirds height? To me the former looked easier but scary and the latter looked harder but safer.

El Mocho

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Yo yo,

First off a big thankyou to Bonjoy, if you could post up some more pictures of projects at this sort of grade that would be ace. I am too lazy to go find them myself.

Also thanks to Heason and Myles who turned up with a couple of pads at just the right time, my mum was turning up but I was feeling a little doubtfull about trying it with just her and the dog spotting. Klem is only good for longer falls when he has time to stop digging and get into position.

I abbed down the line on friday in my trainers and gave it a clean and felt the holds. I was considering then trying it ground up (not technically ground up but I hadn't tried the moves) with a bit of a team. The nice weather yesterday and my lack of patience meant I went out on my own again and practiced the top off the ab rope - the bottom was safe so I left this to boulder out.

Had a couple of goes on the bottom on my own (klem kept on buggering off, said he couldn't be arsed spotting when there was all this mud to roll in) but didn't really make much head way. Was just off to get another pad when Myles and Ben turned up.

1st go with pads and spotters I did it (starting from standing on the block to the left.) I then decided to try it from the ground without using the block at all and did that the next go (prob half a grade harder)

As you may know I am shit at grading and naming problems and also with the style it was climbed in I am even more confused.

I guess it was Fb7b+ off the block and maybe 7c from the ground. Although the top does get easier (I stayed on the arete all the way up - heading for the big jug on the overhanging side just below the top) you could have a pretty spicy fall from there. It felt like a highball boulder to me but I think if I hadn't abbed it then I would have been shitting myself.  Prob E6/7 for the ground up????

Ben did get some pictures so might be able to post them up if y'all interested.

Can't think of a name yet. Probably call it Sparrow or My Best Mate the Watermelon or something.

Somebody's Fool

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Good effort Ben, it looks a fine line.

Quote
but I know as much as that he went and abbed down it pretty much as soon as Bonjoy posted that pic up.

Is that around the time that you finally stopped pissing yourself at Bonjoy for putting up pictures of 'impossible' boulders on t'interweb?

Bonjoy

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 I've a bunch of other lines (over 70 in the book in my desk, all in the peak), some better tha others naturally, but I might start having to charge for the scouting time, or auctioning them on ebay.
 Oh go on then, here's a stupidly obvious one which is crying out for a big team with mats to sort out. Not on a par with the one you just did but worthy. The arete right of Kaluza Klein. has been done to the break (Pan o Raisan E4 6b??) with an escape right. But the leftward/direct line looks a goer, with a huge jug only a couple of moves from where the E4 goes right. The landing is good too. Might need a cleaning monkey to ab the top first.
 Nice names, classics of the genre ;D.
 Any chance of some beta on the start moves? What did you think of the line up the steepside?

Pantontino

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On the same chunk of rock, anybody checked out the Hueco-esque project line coming up through the cave to reach the bottom of Dry Wit in a Wet Country, which would provide a suitable highball finish (in keeping with the title of the original thread). Obviously dead hard and possibly not independent enough of the encroaching side wall of the cave, but sometimes it's hard to say without actually pulling on.

Just wondered, that's all.


Bonjoy

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 Looked at the line  ages ago, but I think I filed it under mega hard/impossible. Could well have put in in the wrong file though.

Johnny Brown

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Mad props to El Mocho. looking forward to more posts of this ilk.

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anybody checked out the Hueco-esque project line coming up through the cave to reach the bottom of Dry Wit in a Wet Country

This was Canadian Frank's project circa 99-00. He was crazy psyched for it.

Percy B

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Oh Simon, Simon, Simon...... The cave under Dry Wit is A) Absolutely the living end hard, B) in a hole under a boulder where everybody has a poo, and C) the last time I looked at it, it looked shite.... steep, but shite. I guess if you were smoking crack in the cave it might look awesome, but I wasn't at the time so I was rather non-plussed.
And this coming from a man who has climbed more than his fair share of bad problems - I reckon I know a minger when I see it! (Oh course, I could be wrong -it wouldn't be the first time....) ;)

Fiend

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The cave under Dry Wit is A) Absolutely the living end hard, B) in a hole under a boulder where everybody has a poo, and C) the last time I looked at it, it looked shite.... steep, but shite.

Surely this is the essence of nu-skool Peak bouldering, high highballs aside??  :-\




(Apologies to everyone especially Peak explorophiles, but memories of this news item still haunt me)

 

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