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Grit route/highball Last Great Problems.... (Read 81497 times)

SA Chris

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Chameleon Direct, no, not as I'm aware anyway, it would ceratinly be a very slopey proposition!

Go check it Andi, not the most impossible thing I have ever seen. Reckon it would go.

Aussiegav

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pardon my ignorance and lack of guidebook purchase here:

hasnt the smiley wall (the short wall with the big smile feature) been done yet??

it was in a video yrs ago - Ben Moon top roping it - and had been tried by many.... just thought those of you good enough would have done it by now.....

i tried it about 12 yrs ago, and it was nails..... but I was just about headpinting (sic) E6 at the time!! I think it's even got gear....



It's very hard, it's been top roped in one, it has a bad landing, the gear wouldn't stop you hitting the ground.

or falling down that deep dark chasm....

AndiT

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Chameleon Direct, no, not as I'm aware anyway, it would ceratinly be a very slopey proposition!

Go check it Andi, not the most impossible thing I have ever seen. Reckon it would go.

Ok, will do. Want a little break from Hen Cloud for a bit now though, that walk in is giving me nightmares and the wind has picked up so the crag has become a less hospitable place. I'll definitely check it out though, there are a few other good bits and bobs to do up there too.

I'm back in the Churnet for a bit now, it helps to build your grit appreciation!  ::)

Sloper

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As far as the grade progression / on sight issue goes I've been around long enough to remember the cover of Crags with a pic of Supersonic (er I think) captioned 'could this be Britains first 6c'? and when anyone climbing tech 6b would be a 'recognised' name.

Things have moved on, and will move on.   What was once cutting edge is now a comfy resting ledge.  Of course there is a physical limit to how hard humans can climb (i.e. 3mm slopers 2m apart on a 45 degree overhang will be a bit tricky) but I don't think we've got close to the limit yet. 

If you need the evidence look at recent news of young whipper snappers climbing sport 9a and >V13 with ease.  To think that grit will be immune from this trend is just parochial arrogance.

Bonjoy

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 If that's directed at me, I think you should re-read what I wrote.

Aussiegav

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nobody's mentioned the advances in bullshitting. someday there'll be 1 or a few guys capable of telling the biggest of porky pies with the greatest of ease. the masses will believe them, and then the great unclimbed lines will fall.
..................on a day when they couldn't get anyone to go with them, or just with their vision impaired girlfriend to spot or belay....

SA Chris

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..................on a day when they couldn't get anyone to go with them, or just with their vision impaired girlfriend to spot or belay....

Except a local fisherman and their border collie? Neither of whom could do the moves.

BenF

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..................on a day when they couldn't get anyone to go with them, or just with their vision impaired girlfriend to spot or belay....

Except a local fisherman and their border collie? Neither of whom could do the moves.

To be fair, the border collie was feeling a little unwell and certainly not climbing at his best.

Jacqusie

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Just spoke to Iain. He says the two things he did were further along from Who Wants To Be Lucky Pierre, up a slab on a ledge. One up the LH side with a tree at the top Boonapi E3/4 6c, one up the RH side Marramunt HVS 6a/6b. Said both would make good highballs.



I never knew this!  - other wise it would have gone in with the other uppertier stuff... wonder why Iain never posted it up anywhere...?!?

As for the Purple Acorns thingy - I don't think I could find it proper  - or it looked pants - or Grimer missed it? - probably the latter..... :-\

Fiend

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Right, question...

Why is the Cratcliffe groove so hard / so unclimbed? Was moping around a mostly damp Cratcliffe the other day and having a good old ponder in the groove's direction. What's the score?

Johnny Brown

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Quote
Why is the Cratcliffe groove so hard

There are no holds, and the breaks above and below are quite narrow and blind. As for why it hasn't been done, you could argue its because the feature doesn't extend to a full height line. But you'd be wrong, its cos no one can do the move.

Fiend

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Isn't the arete of the groove one big hold though? Either to layback off on the right, or gaston/guppy off on the left... Although I can see how it would be harder the worse the breaks are...

Bonjoy

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I still maintain that this is the true LGP at Cratcliff

SA Chris

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Isn't the arete of the groove one big hold though? Either to layback off on the right, or gaston/guppy off on the left...

Do you not think it may have crossed someone's mind to try this at some point?? I know it sounds crazy, but it may be harder than it looks.

Johnny Brown

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Apparently shorties like The Dawes have tried the gaston/ chimney method, whilst taller folks like Bentlegs and Idol Eyes have gone for the layback + jump method. Neither seems to have got them to work to well, there are stories that the move has been done once but thats it.

Scouse D

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I'm with Lovejoy. That prow/wall thing looks just as good in the flesh

Somebody's Fool

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At the risk of sounding like an ignoramus, where is it?  Is it round near Hueco Wall or summat?  It looks a little sparse grips-wise...

Bonjoy

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It's between the Grimoire block (the one above Brain Dead) and Hueco Wall.  There is also a possible line up the middle of the steep side, jump start maybe. Both have holds and look possible, but hard and with deteriorating landings as you gain height.

dave

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lets not mince words, that cratcliffe prow thing basically doesn't have a landing. i'd be more inclined to get on the groove project!

cofe

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Gosh. aren't the hOlds made Of biScuit as wEll?

i still reckon the best one is the prow at burb nth, using sphinx footholds for hands.

Bonjoy

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What are you talkinG abOut pinwheel? The hOldS are totally bombEr A1 Cratcliff special. Ding dong knock knock curly whirly cuckoo!!
Dave I never said it was a boulder problem, this is the route bit of the forum.
« Last Edit: January 10, 2007, 12:44:18 pm by Bonjoy »

Fiend

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lets not mince words, that cratcliffe prow thing basically doesn't have a landing.

LOL  :lol: A very apt description looking at the picture!

Somebody's Fool

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Good lOoking prOwject, and the few holdS there are look finE.

See Cofe.  You needn't make wild claims about the integrity of the rock just to say goose in a stupid way.

Idol eyes

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The Cratcliffe Groove. Thinking that the youth will take this, its a kin to Chimera, High Rocks. With time the holds will settle down, and with the advances on the finishing holds (out rt) this is going to be the true "hardest route".
Wish i was around to work this route, had one great session on it, then three bad. good luck rock stars.

dave

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Dave I never said it was a boulder problem, this is the route bit of the forum.

Neither did I, neither did I.....



...or did I?



No i didn't.

 

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