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Grit route/highball Last Great Problems.... (Read 82148 times)

Pantontino

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I am firmly of the opinion that you should never write a piece of rock off completely, even when you've checked it and decided it is shite. Just of late I have been returning to areas that I once thought had no further development potential and each time I have been pleasantly surprised at what I missed the first time. Basically, what I'm saying is that sometimes you have to get on them to realise if they are any good. It is incredible how the simplest of things can completely change your perspective.

That cave may well prove to be unfeasible/pointless etc, but on the other hand...

Anyway, Percy, what happened to you? Time was that you were putting up new lines left right and centre, all over the Peak and Yorkshire, yet now we don't hear a thing. Have you retired/ worn yourself out building that climbing wall or are you keeping a load of secret venues under wraps?

And JB, who was Canadian Frank? Are you bulling, or did this character actually try the line in question?

Percy B

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Just biding my time, Simon, biding my time! Been busy of late, but might turn my attention back to projects on the grit now, if it ever stops raining (its started again, after the 1 and a half days of dry conditions we just had). Got a nice 'new venue' in the Peak to clean up - 5 or 6 nice big line to go at. Obviously, I'm not at liberty to say where at present......


Johnny Brown

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Quote
And JB, who was Canadian Frank? Are you bulling, or did this character actually try the line in question?


Of course he's kosher, you think I make this stuff up? He thought that roof was the best project in the peak, tried it a bit, very enthusiastically, but with little results. I thought it was a tad futuristic, until of course Dave Graham moves to Abersoch, Chris Sharma visits him and they go a-holidaying in the peak.

a dense loner

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strong team, all 4 of them

Ballsofcottonwool

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What the score with the impossible groove at Burbage south?

I had a play on this 2 winters ago while checking out the far end of the edge, didn;t have my guidebook to hand and assumed it was Little Rascal, didn't realise it was unclimbed until I was leafing through the guide at the weekend.

Jacqusie

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Its impossible and thats the story until someone does it  - which will be never cos its impossible!

Was at RHS Cratcliffe on Sunday and saw many folk about and wondering if any decent shit had gone down - then went down to the woods and saw all the chalk on the prow and my jaw dropped - had it been finally sent?

Seeing the Bransby walking out of there and our dog sniffing his dogs arse - should have been obvious really! Effort!

Still got a few problems of my own in them there hills that I haven't given away to anyone yet and a funky little new bouldering crag that needs a bit of spick  - but has some nice lines on it....

Keep going people - especially Unc somebody - one day it will all be yours ..!

 :bow:


El Mocho

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Hey Bonjoy et all,

You were askin for a bit of beta:

You kinda layback up the arete (can you layback something which is 45 degrees overhanging?) for the first few moves, you then wack a heal on for the next bit and do some hand shuffling. The last few moves, to get the jug are relatively easy as long as your heal stays on - if not you won't stop rolling until you hit the road. Once you grab the jug it is all over bar the shouting.

The start is technically the crux and with a couple of pads and a spotter you are safe for this - Miles and Ben were falling off the start a fair bit. The middle section is still tricky and fairly exciting but I think you would be ok...

Didn't really look at the steep line in much detail. It looked like a jump start to me and then tricky. It did look good though.

Bonjoy

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Cheers Elmo. Am well keen to have a play.

nash1

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Is the arete left of Messiah anything? Maybe it is and I am being dim, but it looks bloody good, see here : http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=44080


north_country_boy

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The arete left of David/right of Goliath? Not sure, but yeah it looks good!  :-\

nash1

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Yup, that's the one? Maybe you can span into Goliath or something, maybe it's impossible... Who has the beta?
Or did I just reveal someone's project?

Fiend

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Burbage:
Arete right of Goliath

Yup it's a pretty obvious one, and definitely a line. No doubt those in the know know why no-one is known to have done it yet.

Baron

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That arete might look good but it's a bit close to the other routes. For the love of God will someone get the wall left of Messiah done. There's the line. It will go, but is fucking nails and reachy. And the best bit is the unpaddable landing.

nash1

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Right, we have two classy lines in a classy place, 2m from each other, get to it you lot... (I am abroad, so I am off the hook... yeah, as if I could do them!)

Idol eyes

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Shit, I do not even know what line you are on about, but  El muchio delivers the perfect beta....

Bonjoy

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Idol eyes

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Ah, that route, I can not belive thats gone down! thought it was impossible, top marks to Mr Brandsby.

Fiend

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Curbar:
Smiling Buttress arete

Plenty of chalk on this recently....good line! Doesn't look too hard really...

Jim

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Bransby did it 4 or 5 times yesterday. A couple of big number climbers left with there pants round there ankles

Bonjoy

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I presume you aren't talking about Smiling Buttress there Jim!?
Was anyone trying the other lines on the block???

Johnny Brown

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El mo tried the right arete traversy thing, Ry was about an inch too short to pull on to the central ramp thing. We improved the landing slightly, a big log would improve it further.

Bonjoy

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 I'll make sure I have a hefty supper the night before my next visit in that case  ;).

 Am surprised the right arete didn't go, i thought that looked a bit easier then Ben's thing and with a much better landing.

 Someone must have been trying the central line on a rope recently. It had chalk all over it about ten days ago anyway.

Jim

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I presume you aren't talking about Smiling Buttress there Jim!?
Was anyone trying the other lines on the block???
your correct there bonos, didn't see the quotes in fiends post.
There was chalk all over the right arete and on the middle ramp/undercut yesterday still

Johnny Brown

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The chalk on the right was El mo's, it was still damp from the fact the rock hasn't long been exposed to the air.
Here's another pic of Sparrow forward slash my best friend the watermelon. The landing doesn't look too bad, however the high bit is uneven with rocks underneath, and take note of the position of spotter number two.

Bonjoy

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Nice shot! I wish I forearms like stretchy pieces of taffy. I'd like to see said spotter catch him from there!!

 I cleaned a little of the moss off the right arete last year, but like you say it takes a while for the rock to dry and I never got round to pulling on.
 Shit, I wish i'd been out at the crag yesterday instead of stuck in this god forsaken office :'(!

 

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