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Grit route/highball Last Great Problems.... (Read 71753 times)

Fiend

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Shameless list nerd topic, sorry  :-X But even so might be amusing.

Some of these shamelessly stolen from Readza's Grit List (update it damn you!), others are semi-obvious, and some are hypothetical nonsense. And maybe some have been done by persons who remain anonymous to all but those in the know...

Stanage:
Wall right of White Wand

Burbage:
Line right of Superstition.
Roof right of knight's move (if holly ever goes)
Destructive Tendencies direct
Slab left of 3 Blind Mice
Impossible groove
Rib left of Notorious BLG
Face/arete right of Simba's Pride
Braille Trail direct
Groove and rib right of Parthian
Arete right of Goliath
Wizard Ridge
Wizard Ridge Direct
Groove right of Captain Invincible

Quarries:
Blank wall at Lawrencefield
Blank wall at far end of Millstone

Froggatt:
Wall left of Beau Geste
Wall right of Beau Geste
Greedy Pig Direct

Curbar:
Smiling Buttress
Smiling Buttress arete
Elder Statesmen direct

Rivelin / quarries:
Slab right of That's My Lot
Direct wall beneath that E4 6a

Gardoms?
Birchens?
Chatsworth?

Cratcliffe:
The groove
Thin seam/overlap parallel to the groove

Ramshaw:
Crack right of Ramshaw Crack

Roaches:
Headless Horseman arete / roof

Hen Cloud
Chircausio
45' arete at right end of crag

Elsewhere:
Wimberry - wall right of MaDMAn

Yorkshire:
Lots at Brimham.
Charlie's Dilemma prow
Prow left of Giggling Crack
Wall left of New Statesman
Loaded Direct

Lancashire:
Wall left of Alec Trench @ Egerton
Wall right of corner right of Ice Cool Acid Test @ Egerton
Arete right of Cherry Bomb @ Egerton
Other line on Stanworth Slab
Wall above pool @ Denham

etc etc, can't think of any more now...
« Last Edit: April 19, 2006, 10:25:40 pm by Fiend »

andy_e

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Lancashire Highballs... Don't forget all those blank walls between the cracks on the Long Back Wall at brownstones...

And what about those in Yorkshire? There must be hundreds!

wannaclimb8a

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line right of living in oxford was done years ago!!!i know cos i belayed the first ascentionist on it while he was working it!is E8 7A but forget the name.
wall left of beau guest has is rampart which has been done without the side runners as far as i know.also think the line the right of bg has been done but not 100% sure.

lots of the others like wizard ridge direct are pretty much imporssible!had a look at braille trail direct years ago and its a proper death route!!!you need big cahoonas to lead that!!




rich

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My mistake, I meant the line right of Superstition, as mentioned in the guide.

Rampart is now Soul Doubt, however there is still a wall leading to thin cracks between that and BG.

wannaclimb8a

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okies.think miles may have had a look at the route to the right of supersticion too but not sure.
yeah think the direct to the cracks is pretty much mega hard/a la'impossible



rich

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Cratcliffe prow

nik at work

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Have tried:
Blank wall at Lawrencefield - lots of hard moves very sustained but certainly climbable (super highball or more realistically a route)
Arete at the end of Millstone (the bank wall is well blank) - one tricky final move, not that hard, this should have been done by now really (probably a route as it has reasonable half height gear)
Wall between Soul Doubt and BG - really hard sequence in the middle, but quality line IMHO
Pool Wall, Denham - sustained, hard, no placeable gear but potentially soft landing (depending on the shopping trolleys location) sadly the rock isn't great and neither is the venue (definitely a route)
Slab right of TML, Rivelin Quarries - hard but certainly a boulder problem with mat technology
Braille Trail Direct - a bit shit IMHO, a couple of very hard moves into Braille trail
The direct into Delivered, Rivelin Quarries - Probably not THAT hard
The other Stanworth Slab - having read the various descriptions of the Gaskins slab I think that he may have taken a hybrid line combining the left-hand start with the righ-hand finish. So there may still be two slab lines to go at, sticking left is sick hard, sticking right is even harder (of course I might be wrong about the line he took)

What about the Lawrencefield slab mentioned in the guide, I know nothing about it...

grimer

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i thought that slab at lawrencefield looked really good. totally clean, and a boulder problem. If you want to get to it, you walk along the top of the crag on the path beside the fence, until you see a little broken down wall on the right. Drop down here, and cut back on yourself a little and it's there.

Bonjoy

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i thought that slab at lawrencefield looked really good. totally clean, and a boulder problem. If you want to get to it, you walk along the top of the crag on the path beside the fence, until you see a little broken down wall on the right. Drop down here, and cut back on yourself a little and it's there.

 Is this not one of Iain Farrar's things which was inexplicably missed out of guide for some reason. I think details might be on UKC database. I could be totally wrong, as I don't know the exact bit you are talking about, but Iain did do a slab or two at Lawrencefield that got missed out of guide.

Bonjoy

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Just checked. Details not on UKC database. Will chase Iain for info

nik at work

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Yeah I noticed that Who Wants To Be lucky Pierre was in the FA list but not anywhere in the route description, or the index. Incidentally this is definitely not the slab in question as it isn't a slab - I was with him when he did the FA. Are there other Farrar creations missing? Whats happened to them? We should be told, petition your local councilor, for too long has too little been made of the efforts of this man ramble ramble ramble when I were a youth rhubarb rhubarb men were men blahdy-blah....

nik at work

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Ooooo hang on maybe it was a slab, or at least slabby but definitely not a smooth clean slab. And this time I'm sure, yup, def-fin-ite-ly one-hundred-percento. Anyone know any good care homes specialising in senile dementia?

Bonjoy

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He did a couple of other things as well as that, but may not have recorded them  ::) Will investigate

I can't believe the arete right of Kaluza Klein still hasn't been climbed properly. There is an E4 6b version that scurrys of rightward before the break, but the arete and obvious leftward topout remain undone despite looking pretty steady. Looks like one that should be bouldered out ground up though. Good flat landing, massive jug to finish, possible gear in break, not very high.

Bonjoy

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 Just spoke to Iain. He says the two things he did were further along from Who Wants To Be Lucky Pierre, up a slab on a ledge. One up the LH side with a tree at the top Boonapi E3/4 6c, one up the RH side Marramunt HVS 6a/6b. Said both would make good highballs.

andy_e

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more lancashire-ness:

Lower Montcliffe quarry has a number of aretes, all hard. A highball slopey one and a big route one... The route is a guesstimated E7 6c.

Soxs

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The Prow at Thorn Crag, must be the hardest climbable - unclimbed line around.

AndiT

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Chiariscuro was climbed last week by Jon Read and I seconded him. Whether it was the first ascent is open to question, but it wasn't actually that bad climbing, but clearly very bold. I'd suggest E6/7 6b, but it may be easier, nonetheless, a very good route.

Headless Horseman Arete will happen but it's just very serious and tenuous.

There are plenty of routes still out there....

fatdoc

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Right,

here's a blast form the past!!

Braille trail direct is OK once into the braille trail.....relative to the begining that is.

I TRed it a while ago (er.......... about 15years ago actually!!!!!) and felt it to be WAY harder than anything else around at the time - this was when E7 was ard!!

I reckon it is THE line in burbage to go.
As i did the braille trail the *jump* way at the top (i'm only 5ft 7) there was no way i was gonna do that without gear (and i fell off on my first lead attempt)

But, time must have moved on.........i rarely climb now.........i'm sure this could be done if you had the will!!


Fiend

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Mentioned on UKC a while ago:

Quote
by - Adam L  on - 29 Sep 2006
In reply to boothy:

Dunno where James' proj is but Sam's is hideous. E12 probably - sustained 7a climbing on fragile pebbles, 50ft, no gear, death landing.
 

Would I be half-way correct in thinking that that would be the arete beneath Sickbay Shuffle then?? It certainly fits the description in all senses!!!!

SA Chris

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AndiT, possibly the one who may know. Has a direct start to Chameleon at Hen Cloud ever been done? Looks very climbable, although landing is not really ideal?

AndiT

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Chameleon Direct, no, not as I'm aware anyway, it would ceratinly be a very slopey proposition!

Oli

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The double aretes to the left of the Notorious BLG were well chalked up aboout 3 weeks ago. So that may/should go this winter.

irish si

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BLG RIP

unclesomebody

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Notorious BLG is fine as can be seen here;

http://just-another-chic.blogspot.com/

as for Notorious BIG. He wasn't so lucky.

soapy

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lieutenant worf i presume?





 

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