[Andy F]

Sounds like its going to be like the deli queue at Sainsburys this sat.........no.14 please.......early start for me then...

In that case I'll have extended clips on the 2nd, 3rd and 5th bolt, with 100g of black olives, some Boar salami and a tub of sun-dried tomatoes thank you 

[Andy F]

a) Who's your normal belayer of choice for Overnight?

I wouldn't have thought he was bothered as long as they can work a gri gri properly.... Ey Andy ;-)

Not that you Trad climber/boulderer types would know what the arse end of a Gri-Gri looks like 

[Andy F]

Just before you get all excited Andy at seeing my name associated with a Malham thread, it's not conditions I'm interested in. Some questions:
a) Who's your normal belayer of choice for Overnight?

Anyone I can get my hands on (but IanP is usually up for the job)

[/quote]b)Is there a chance I could get on the payroll for the job soon? 

Get it ticked lad!!!
[/quote]

By all means my good man, just let me know your working conditions and I'll se if we've got space for you 

[Fiend]

On a slightly different tip, what's the Right Wing trad likely to be like after the current shit?? Stuff like Wombat and the usual suspects....

[webbo]

still as scarey as ever.

[Fiend]

Thank yoooooooooooooooooou webbo. Now does anyone know how quick they dry out??

[IanP]

Thank yoooooooooooooooooou webbo. Now does anyone know how quick they dry out??

Its been a long (lonely, lonely.....) time but as far as I remember the right wing is much less susceptible to seepage than the sport climbing areas.  Generally very clean and dries pretty quickly and most stuff should be fine as long as it isn't actually raining - but it doesn't have the shelter of catwalk and obsession areas and isn't protected if it is raining.

[Bonjoy]

For any Overnight hopefuls who might be interested, there is a painful but very useful kneebar just below the last bolt. Right leg, knee pointing left, knee on angular edge of big chalky undercut, foot on highish smear out right. Found it on redpoint and it makes the tricky last move feel piss. Showed it to a chap trying it t'other day and it worked for him too. Painful but very effective. Hopefully that tit-bit should speed up the deli queue a little.

[Andy F]

That'll be the one Ste Mac used. Tyre inner tube knee pad optional but highly reccomended.

[Bonjoy]

That'll be the one Ste Mac used.

Not before I told him about it

[north_country_boy]

Knee bar sounds like good knowledge Bonjoy, but now i'm so close, changing my sequence may just set me back........hand was well and truly up her skirt yesterday.....right hand up onto boss......oh no....not again.....f**ked!    (the cove turned blue  )

[Fiend]

Its been a long (lonely, lonely.....) time but as far as I remember the right wing is much less susceptible to seepage than the sport climbing areas.  Generally very clean and dries pretty quickly and most stuff should be fine as long as it isn't actually raining

Cheers, Terrace, Carnage and Right Wing were in pretty good condition - a few seepage patches but most of the classics seemed unaffected. Nice with the breeze too.

Knee bar sounds like good knowledge Bonjoy, but now i'm so close, changing my sequence may just set me back........hand was well and truly up her skirt yesterday.....right hand up onto boss......oh no....not again.....f**ked!    (the cove turned blue  )

Ahhhh....did hear some good bellowing coming from "down below". I bet the twitchers were impressed 

[Andy F]

As of today everything left of Overnite was well and truely FUBAR, most things to the right were ok but with wetness coming through on the undercuts of Seventh Aardvark. Anything going over the roof was out of the question, including The Groove. Upstairs has faired much better with almost everything left of Serious Young Toads in good enough nick, with the occasional dampness on the start of L'obsession and things further left again, but dry higher up.

[andy_e]

Just before you get all excited Andy at seeing my name associated with a Malham thread, it's not conditions I'm interested in. Some questions:
a) Who's your normal belayer of choice for Overnight?

Anyone I can get my hands on (but IanP is usually up for the job)

But not me... 

[Doylo]

Knee bar sounds like good knowledge Bonjoy, but now i'm so close, changing my sequence may just set me back........hand was well and truly up her skirt yesterday.....right hand up onto boss......oh no....not again.....f**ked!    (the cove turned blue  )

yes i've never heard such disgraceful language - made me blush

[north_country_boy]

Apologies for all whose innocent ears were tarnished with the blue language which Royston Vasey would have been proud of! Sorry 

(Hopefully won't happen again - although steer clear fri if easily offended)

[Bonjoy]

Knee bar sounds like good knowledge Bonjoy, but now i'm so close, changing my sequence may just set me back........

Hmmm  , good rest just prior to the move you're falling off (due to being pumped presumably), sounds like a no-brainer to me....

[north_country_boy]

Well, i'll check it out on Fri but seems like it will be an effort to 'climb into it'? Although i'm hoping I won't need it Friday anyway....

[Andy F]

As of yesterday the following routes were dry(ish) and do-able:
Overnight (with a few wet spots), Raindogs (some very damp holds low down, top-ropeable), Chisling (again wet low -down), Seventh (undercuts wet but doable), Consenting to Free and Even all bone, Rose Coranary doable, routes at the RH end ok (Sycophants, Frankie etc).

Upstairs: Conceptual, Toad of Beck hall to Conehead all bone dry, Herbie and New Age both soaking, Ob/Lobsession do-able but damp at the start, as were things to the left.

The Beck was as high as I've ever seen it, with some very impressive clouds and thunder during the day.

[TobyD]

anyone been up in last couple of days? 

[JW]

Went yesterday - Wednesday.  Oh dear.  Needs a good spin dry.  Consenting was climable, Free and Even Easier (if a bit minging), Raindogs from the 2nd bolt, maybe at a push Energy Vampire.    Did not go to the upper tier but looked pretty wet.

Kilnsey even wetter if that's possible.  Possibly submerged by now.

[Andy F]

Did the central upper tier (around Main Overhang/Todall) look ok (i.e. white), or were there lots of black streaks?

[IanP]

Hi Andy,

I should be up Saturday (have sent you an email) - with somewhat drier weather forecast should be a chance of things improving a bit  particular by Sunday.  Gareth says he may well be there tonight so might be able to provide an update.

[Andy F]

Managed to swing it eh  . I rang Gareth last night, left a message, Sat is out for me, Sun only.

[TobyD]

yesterday (thurs) centre upper tier was ok; main overhang and toadal recall dry bar one or two holds. Obsession looked pretty dry, things to the left had very wet starts, but mostly ok above.

Lower tier usuals ok, if a little slimy.

things improved dramatically in the 45 mins or so of sunshine between pissing rain and even more pissing rain.