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Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete (Read 3082 times)

Rice Boy

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Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 17, 2006, 12:03:44 pm
Is this impossible for anyone over 6ft?

Left foot on upper arete?
Dyno with left hand low on arete?

Ended up getting bored trying it over the years, so maybe should just let it go like Rose DeWitt Bukater let Jack Dawson go.

a dense loner

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#1 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 17, 2006, 12:21:03 pm
if tall may i suggest left foot on the high first bit, ie just under the upper arete, n right foot toehooking/twisting into the undercut. left hand is still the same i'm afraid

dave

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#2 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 17, 2006, 06:44:18 pm
dense's beta is bollocks. i'm 6'1 and done it a few times over the last few years. left hand high on arete, paste left foot on good bit on upper arete and just throw a lot further than you think.

dense's beta doesn't work for ben moon on hard grit - that should tell you something.

a dense loner

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#3 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 17, 2006, 11:08:12 pm
but it has worked for dense, that tell's us something else. by playground rules am i now cock of the school? cue humourous replies

dave's normal beta is better tho. high left hand? maybe if you've got banana's. one hand move up on the arete is what i'm on about

Control freak

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#4 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 18, 2006, 01:37:07 am
Quote from: "dense"
by playground rules am i now cock of the school? cue humourous replies .


Ok, I'll go first.

Or are you just a cock? There - got the easy one out of the way. Besides, does this mean your now a better climber than Ben Moon. Im gutted I never managed to get your autograph before I moved down under. I'll have a look on ebay...

 :lol:

Rice Boy

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#5 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 18, 2006, 01:08:48 pm
Embarrassed I even asked for help, serious lack of commitment on my part me thinks.

Thanks for the knowledge.

dave

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#6 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 18, 2006, 06:02:32 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
high left hand? maybe if you've got banana's. one hand move up on the arete is what i'm on about


no i just meant the normal hand hold, which is high up on the arete. if you go too high its gets worse.

a dense loner

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#7 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
January 18, 2006, 06:24:41 pm
we're on about the same hold. you say tomato...

r-man

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#8 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
April 13, 2006, 01:03:33 am
Did this yesterday. Got it wired after discovering the trick.

The standard beta of "just throw much further than you need to" is nonsense. Yes you need to get an armful of rock to hit the good bit, but it's how you get there that's the trick.

Feet as per usual, left foot on upper arete, right foot in break, pinch arete where it's good. Then as you go up, twist knees to the left whilst pulling hard on that left arm. You should find yourself making the distance easily, and it feeling like a slightly speeded up layback move rather than a wild slap.  

Bish bash bosh. Though I suppose I am under 6ft, and there seems to be an implication that this is harder for tall people?

(It's good that some things are)  :wink:

bigphil

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#9 Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
April 13, 2006, 07:41:29 am
As one of said tall people at 6'4"/6'5" I can confirm that getting ones lanky legs all curled up and ready to provide that push up is where the difficulty lies.  I find myself pushing more up and out which doesn't help latching that top hold.  Still, next time I'm there I'll give you beta the consideration it deserves r-man although I think I'll have a problem with the right foot in break bit as my right foot ususally stays on a dish on the lower arete just above where its all crumbled away.

wannaclimb8a

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#10 Re: Higgar Tor 7a+ Arete
April 15, 2006, 11:41:53 pm
dont worry if you cant do this problem as pretty much everyones fallen off it.i had a go at if after doing piss,shit and pooh and still didnt do it.wont bother with it now cos the rocks getting well knackered now.


rich

 

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