[Monolith]

quick question: is there any bouldering on anglesey worth attention? Dont think ive ever heard mention of any, maybe thats simply because there is none!?

[Houdini]

Ah!  But what about the Mysterious Quartz Bloc?

A really bizarre and enormous lonely chunk which sports a couple of lines that were routed.  And probably the least bouldered place on Anglesey, if not the world.

I'm hazy on it's exact location, but there was bog trotting.  I remember it being evil to climb on (bet cjd would love it here!)

Ooooh, not that much rock left.  For connoisseurs only!

(For bouldering in places other than the Mysterious Quartz Bloc - a guy called Andy Goater would know more about the bouldering on Anglesea.  And there's bouldering in Moelfre done ages ago by the brothers Parry.  There must be stuff in or around the quarries.  Documentation?)

[Pantontino]

There are quite a few places (close to RAF Valley for example), and as already mentioned, Moelfre.

I'm not aware of the 'Mysterious Quartz Bloc' that Houdini mentioned, but the best venue I've been to (which should probably remain nameless for now) has an access problem which is still unresolved as far as I know.

I developed a small cave close to Rhoscolyn a few years ago - but this also has slightly dodgy access situation.

I found one other place that has decent potential (and no access problems for once) - would be worth a look for anybody living on the Holyhead side of the island. It's a tidal corridor of smooth rock on a beach south of Porth Swtan (Church Bay).

[jimbo]

Is'nt there some mythical sandstone boulders in the forest at Newborough ? I could have made that up but I am sure someone told me about it once (probably in the heights after 12 pints)

[Pantontino]

I heard that once, and was suitably inspired to go for a look around. I found the odd outcrop, but no boulders. Mind you, I didn't do a full search, so it could be true.

[Houdini]

Shamone!


Pantontino is out-obscured!







One day Simon, one day, you will know the weirdness of The Mysterious Quartz Bloc of Anglesea.

[ding dong]

miles took me round a couple of beach venues he'd explored on the east of the island, fun but nothing worth documenting really.
i think moelfre is a great little venue though.
vetical walls mostly above a flat tidal shelf.  perhaps 15(guessing) lines most around v3-v5(few years back-guessing again)
but with one problem that took huffy and i two sessions,
if i remember right.
lovely spot too.

[ding dong]

Shamone!


Pantontino is out-obscured!

A rare triumph indeed. well done!

[Monolith]

yeah, i always used to fish off the rocks in various places on anglesey when I was younger and sure i remember loads of areas with great potential, but cant actually remember where they were.

[Rhys]

Heya, was out bouldering around Moelfre yesterday. The place described in the guide has excellent problems, although there's not that much there- if you combine it with a trip to the walls below the memorial for The Royal Charter there's a fair bit more to do, found a cool 6aish thing going up a clean vertical wall yesterday- well worth checking out the area.

Also of note is a huge Dolerite boulder by the back-roads coming out of Holyhead- proper good but was a while ago and I can't remember exactly where. So as not to be annoying I think the road came out at a beach below a high wall, with an ice cream van by the side of the road. Damn- that's no less vague!

Also, does anyone know if there's any truth to the rumour that there's a Gabbro boulder field around RAF Valley?

[Rhys]

Mmm, does anybody know more about this mysterious Quartz block on Anglesey? After reading the 'places not to go' thread I'm proper curious now, that and the idea of a more obscure venue than the Penysarn boulder has got my psyche.

Oh, and with regard to general bouldering on Anglesey, I believe that there was a guide published to some Limestone boulders on the beach by Beaumaris last year. The Great Arete in Bangor used to sell copies- but I've heard recently that there's been access issues.

[Monolith]

bouldering at beaumaris hey?! That sure would have made my year 9 school trip to the castle a bit more interesting! Would love to see any topos for anglesey, I imagine they're like gold dust though?

[Rhys]

There should still be some copies knocking around- it was published as a photocopied topo and sold for a pound- although I think I've lost my copy. It's not so much Beaumaris, but Fedw which is near Llangoed. Hope this helps. (Oh by the way, the bouldering in the quarry near Beaumaris really isn't worth bothering with)

[Houdini]

Mmm, does anybody know more about this mysterious Quartz block on Anglesey? After reading the 'places not to go' thread I'm proper curious now.

(ZING!  Line goes tight.  Straps himself into the Fighting Chair)


Y'know Rhys, I'm glad you asked.  Truth is, it would be a desperate affair trying to find The Mysterious Quartz Bloc of Anglesea a third time.  Only three men have ever seen it: one retreated into academia, one left the country, and the other is dead...

However - if you can find him - Dr. Crook will be able to direct you to this most esoteric of swamps.  If that's what you really wanted...

[BenF]

Oh, and with regard to general bouldering on Anglesey, I believe that there was a guide published to some Limestone boulders on the beach by Beaumaris last year. The Great Arete in Bangor used to sell copies- but I've heard recently that there's been access issues.

Correct.  To get to the crag you need to cross a few fields and the owner of the land does not allow access at any time.  The guide has since been withdrawn (I think) but not before I managed to trespass my way there.  Shame we can't climb there, its a good little venue with some interesting problems in a cool place.  In theory you could access it by boat.

[Houdini]

Sounds perfect for inclusion to the 'Gentlemen Boulderer's of N. Wales' circuit:  Beachlanding via an argos inflatable dinghy followed by bogtrotting followed by 3 V0's, a V1, and  half a V3 that only really climbs well if your mate keeps your misplaced sense of curiosity from scraping the floor.

Lovely walk, mind!


(Gabbro, on Anglesea?  Fuel that rumour mill!  Go!)

[BenF]

(Gabbro, on Anglesea?  Fuel that rumour mill!  Go!)

Okay then...

I was bouldering the Pass the other day and I over heard a fella telling his mate that his brother had been in the pub the other day and a fat bloke at the bar had told him about a vast boulderfield of gabbro, hidden from view by the Spar in a village on Anglesey.  The name of the village I didn't hear properly due to the whistling wind, but it began with an L.  Oh yeah and the access is dodgy due to nesting penguins.

[Rhys]

North Wales' Gabbro came down from Scotland; some settled between the Dolerite dykes of the Llyn- the rest lies in a band by Rhosneiger, Treadur Bay, Four Mile Bridge, and below the sea off Anglesey.

Although Anglesey isn't yet a global destination for bouldering, half the fun lies in seeking Atlantis- that and the ability to climb on Old Red Sandstone, truly the discerning gentleman's medium.