[David S]

I know it ain't a boulder problem but I had a look at Ultimate Sculpture (Justin Cs E8 7a right of Crank at Ramshaw) with the intention of photographing it and was appalled at what I saw and so were the others who were there with me. Somebody has knackered it!

It has been (so it seems) wire brushed and had scratch marks all down it that were akin to crampon scratches (I kid you not). It appeared that more pebbles had been broken off and in one place it looked like a foothold low down had possibly been 'improved'. I'm shocked that someone could do this amount of damage. I certainly have lost all desire to take photos of it now.

Somebody has been trying it recently (in this warm weather?!!) judging by the amount of chalk on it. Whoever it is should be reminded that a clean route like this doesn't need wire brushing, not to wear crampons at the crag (it fucks up the friction of your boots) and keep away from a route that relies on its pebbles when it is clearly too warm to be even on it.

Whats happening to the climbing world?!!

Rant over

[Bubba]

Did you get any pics of the damage?

[David S]

Nope. Was to pissed to think about it. Should have reallY

[David S]

It looks to me to be abuse from someone who doesn't know what they are doing. I don't know.

[james]

I wish people would do a little research before they start slagging people off on a public forum.
If you had asked around you would have found out that:
 Pebbles have been lost.
 It has not been wire brushed.
 It has not been climbed in crampons.
 The foothold low down (used by Justin for the rock over away from the arête) has not been improved.  A pebble split in two and some off the grit around it crumbled.  It is now a bit smaller than before.
 It has not been too warm to try it.

Did you not think that maybe someone had been working the line?  I suspect they will have had to try a lot of sequences before thy found one that worked for them?  
They possibly had to experiment with different pebbles and unless they have some magic powers to see which pebbles are bedded deep enough (the pebbles on ultimate sculpture are not always the most reliable due to the sandy nature of the rock), the only way to see it they are strong enough is to give them a nudge.  If they come out then they are clearly not strong enough to be pulled on.  Maybe an effort was made to re-seat the pebbles but this was not always possible because of the grass on the floor (small pebbles have a habit of disappearing in long grass).
Perhaps the scratch marks were from feet slipping.  Not with crampons but with rock-shoes with pieces of grit on the soles.  This would not be uncommon, after the first few moves there are crystals on your shoes because the rock is so sandy.  It would also probably be quite difficult to wipe your shoes in the middle of a 7b sequence.
If someone has been working it then I think they can probably judge if it is too warm to climb it.  Infact, I think they are probably the most qualified to make that decision.

Maybe I am wrong.  It could have been a wire brush wielding mad man in crampons with a grudge against hard trad routes.

What is happening to the climbing world?

Cheers

James

[David S]

I take it that you are the one trying the route - well I'm sorry but it now looks a mess.

The crampon remark was a bit of a piss take but the scratches (of which there are plenty) are an eyesore. I've seen many top climbers perform on similar rock and try things of similar standard but they haven't left marks like this. I'm sorry but it looks bad.

With regards to the foothold the person I was with remarked that it appeared to have been improved. When I looked it was obvious a pebble had come out but it also looked like it had been brushed well afterwards - perhaps to remove sandy grit and crystals left, this happens - but it did look a bit sus.

With regards to the temperature - hey if you can climb 7b slabs when its warm then hats of to you!!

And yes in my opinion it does look like a wire brush has been used at some stage - either that or the toothbrush used is tough.

Hey I may not be able to climb at that standard but I've been around long enough to now when something looks a mess and it pisses me off that we are fucking up our crags and boulder problems. I'm not normally one to have a rant like this but I'd seen loads that weekend and this just lit the flame.

If you want to chat, then many people have my number (including Justin - who I think you know). Give us a call or mail me your number and I'll call you.

I'd love to clear this up.

[Scouse D]

it pisses me off that we are fucking up our crags and boulder problems.

i don't really think you can knock James(or whoever) for trying what is a very hard route-the crumbly nature of the rock and the smeary moves will lead to scratch marks. These may well be unsightly but if it's truley the result of a climber trying to decifer the sequence then we can have no qualms about it.

and keep away from a route that relies on its pebbles when it is clearly too warm to be even on it.

And this comment just makes me laugh...

As for the alleged brushing- I havn't seen the hold in question so will not comment.

[David S]

Quote:
and keep away from a route that relies on its pebbles when it is clearly too warm to be even on it.


And this comment just makes me laugh...

Hey I'm glad I've made someone happy but surely waiting for cold crisp condition will only enhance the chance of success and less need to go on what is obviously a fragile route  (and in my opinion and others the rock is not crumbly - the pebbles may be sus but the rock ain't).

Fuck me this is sounding like rocktalk. enough - like I said James give me a call.

[james]

Sorry for coming accross a bit sarcastic.  I was just pissed off about being acused of damaging one of the best routes on grit.  
I admit it does look a bit messy in some places, especialy the low foothold, but it couldnt be helped.  I spoke to Justin about it and he said not to wory, it is just the rocktype.
As for the wire brush, I have never used or even seen a wirebrush near Ultimate.  I once used a soft "aquafresh flex and direct" to prepare it for an atempt but nothing else.
I did it cleanly on a slack ab rope about a month ago.  After i came back from font it was too warm.  I waited for a cold day and went to try it again, that was last saturday.  I am going to get on it tomorow i think with the hope of leading it fairly soon if we get another cold day.  
Cheers

James

P.S If you want to ring me, my number is 07833 508 296

[mozzer]

Good luck James.

Would be a great effort if you pulled it off.

Not much harder than that at Roaches yet!

[james]

I have just spoke to Justin and he said it does look quite bad.  I didnt notice this but I was probably to focused on the moves to see what was infront of my eyes.  I have only tried to climb this route as I would any other.  It is probably a combination of the thin moves on sandy rock that has caused this damage.  It was a complete acident but I feel realy bad about it.  All I can do is offer my deepest appologies to all that are comcerned, especialy Justin.

[Bubba]

Don't sweat it James, you were only climbing it, not trying to damage it.

If you'd been scrabbling about on it in a pair of hobnail boots then that's one thing, but if the rock's that way then you either don't climb it at all, or accept that there's going to be some scratches.