[wannaclimb8a]

just wondering if anybody has done this and can tell me how?
had a few goes today but seemed mega powerfull but the massive greenstreak limits where you can put your feet at the start.i was trying to press out the start hold with r/h with my foot in the good bit of the groove that runs down from the start hand hold.i managed to press as far as the slopey sidepull that runs down from the good crimp(start of stand up) but couldnt hold it cos i was too bunched.

[Control freak]

just wondering if anybody has done this and can tell me how?
had a few goes today but seemed mega powerfull but the massive greenstreak limits where you can put your feet at the start.i was trying to press out the start hold with r/h with my foot in the good bit of the groove that runs down from the start hand hold.i managed to press as far as the slopey sidepull that runs down from the good crimp(start of stand up) but couldnt hold it cos i was too bunched.

Yes its been done - but its pretty powerfull and the green streak linits where you can put you foot at the start  :wink:

[wannaclimb8a]

well yeah i knew it had been done before just wanting to know if anyone on here could give me a sequence lol.
yeah i assumed i would probably need to put my feet where the green streak is.hopefully it will dry out this year(maybe) so i can have a proper go as im not willing to risk damaging the rock by wiping all the shit away and drying out.

a problem for another month methinks

rich

[Control freak]

I would say so - autumn is probably the best time. Besides, its a pretty shit problem anyway (the sitter), theres plenty of other really good problems to go at. Have you tried many in the Bens Wall area? - they should all be on your ticklist (except for the sitter to blockbuster which is a bit crap too)

[wannaclimb8a]

have done blockbuster and close to ju ju.have tried bens years ago but wanna do it from sitting.most of the ones on there are on the to-do list.im not that strong at the moment cos im coming back from injury but am hoping to do most of the problems upto about V10 this year if i stay uninjured.
when i was there other day i tried no pebble wall which feels hard,got right foot up high on chickenhead but kept overbalancing but i feel like it will go eventually.tried crystay meathod next but my skin was going fast by then but i think i should be able to do that problem next time out.so many good quality hard problems at caley i never know which ones to try when i turn up so i end up with 5 or 6 hard problems that im close to lol


rich

[Control freak]

You should do Bens wall fom standing anyway a)cos its good and b)beacause if youve done the top once your less likely to blow it when you do the sitter. If you can get a good spotting team and a whole heap of pads together then zoo york is amazing. If you fancy a bit of high ball action then Terry is a must do aswell

[wannaclimb8a]

yeah zoo york is a to do maybe next year as is terry which ive tried but the start is hard.think i will buy another mat to add to the 2 i have before i try zoo york as i tend to boulder on my own



rich

[Control freak]

Id go for the making friends option - its cheaper. Get yourself down the leeds wall and hook up with some of the boys down there

[wannaclimb8a]

no i climb on my own most of the time by choice
i sude to get sick of arguing where we were going ect so going on my own is easier lol




rich

[old cheese]

i know i am no local so dont shoot me when i say the stand up to new jerusalem is hard enough, it must have taken me 1000 goes yesterday, and the sitter did look a bit dump.

but do you guys know about the V9 on boulder 16? is it really? maybe we used the wrong sequence. nipple r-h, pebble l-h, rock up to shit crimp then out left and some scratchy footwork to good crimp l-h

[wannaclimb8a]

is that the elimanate one that doesnt use the arete?if so its about V5!!! dont know how the hell its been v9 in 2 guidebooks.i flashing and i dont flash V9's!!i tried avoiding the big hold on the right for your foot at the start and its still about V5.
think the stand up to new jerusalem is ok even if your short like me and have to slap the finish sloper rather than being able to cross through.if your tall enough to cross through it must be about V3.



rich