Classic chuffs you don't like... (Read 10043 times)

andy_e · March 30, 2006, 10:20:59 am

Anyone? There must be loads...

I didn't enjoy Long Tall Sally very much, I felt uneasy all the time...

Fiend · March 30, 2006, 10:53:42 am

Cenotaph Corner as mentioned in the other thread, crux is the worst move in Wales.

Many more. I've always seen the difference between "classic" and "good" (though there is usually a good overlap).

andy_e · March 30, 2006, 10:57:27 am

You must have a lot though Fiend? A man as travelled as yourself?

Apparently the beginning to Great Western is poor...

webbo · March 30, 2006, 11:07:33 am

WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you're at it again.great western is a classic corner crack to start and long tall sally is insecure bridging.i suspect your lack of all round ability might be effecting your judgement.

Fiend · March 30, 2006, 11:22:55 am

Oh yes that reminds me, Great Western, what a pile of toss, rubbish line that ruins at least two other good lines in the area, unpleasant climbing of no real merit, and possibly the most overrated climb in the country. The 5 star finish (the only good bit of the route that it blatantly steals off Western Front) just about elevates it from a -1 start mindless link-up to a 1 star route.

webbo · March 30, 2006, 11:33:24 am

fiend were you andi e in a past life. :wink:

andy popp · March 30, 2006, 12:11:53 pm

More to the point, Western Front isn't that special. Obviously not crap, but the only 4* route on grit? There's probably a 100 better routes on Stanage alone.

fatboySlimfast · March 30, 2006, 12:37:26 pm

In no specific order, 3 star classics that ARE shit
Cenotaph corner-hideous move in the niche, rest of it shite
Lubyanka-one good pitch,the much hyped traverse at the top is 15ft long and crap!
Suicide wall(Bosigran) shite shite with a double helping of polished shite
Raindogs-stupid last move and polished(ok I fell of last move to belay 4 times in one day but its still bollox)
Anything at Bellus, costa blanca
Anything at Humphrey Head
I could throw Old man of hoy in as a bird shite encrusted 300ft weetabix tower but like winter climbing in retrospect it seemed enjoyable....apart from having to throw my clothes and boots away after cos of bird puke

Bonjoy · March 30, 2006, 01:22:24 pm

What you with, Raindogs is class, one of the best 8as in the country!

bigphil · March 30, 2006, 02:23:07 pm

Goliaths Groove. It exposes so many of my weaknesses that I dare not go near it again lest others actually see how shit I am rather than just think how shit I am.

Doylo · March 30, 2006, 06:55:30 pm

yeah Raindogs is brilliant. Sardine gets my vote, classic but too polished to be fun.

ding dong · March 30, 2006, 08:26:31 pm

Quote from: "fatboySlimfast"

Lubyanka-one good pitch,the much hyped traverse at the top is 15ft long and crap!

..but linking the first real pitch(and second if you like,)of lubyanka into the top pitch of the skull must be one of the best outings on the crag. well recommended.

was going to say i enjoyed sardine,
but i guess it is crap really.
i've really enjoyed lots of crap routes come to think of it.

never do the rotwand in the dolomites though, cant remember where it was exactly, but dont take any chances.

webbo · March 31, 2006, 08:22:40 am

i can gladly report the worst classic i have done is west buttress eliminate on cloggy.

Palomides · March 31, 2006, 09:14:13 am

Indecent Exposure - Toss.

Flying Buttress (Stanage) - Polished, wandering, pointless toss.

Cenotaph Corner - Never done it, never been inspired to. It's just a big boooooring groove. (and where were all you bastards when I was getting a pasting over at Rocktalk for suggesting that, hmmm?)

Valkyrie (Roaches) - It's only purpose is to give people who think they can lead VS a hard time with rope drag and a teeny tiny bit of exposure

Rubicon - Chossy toss. Why not do it every 6 months to have the pleasure of pulling on a whole new set of loose crimps?

Anything at Oxwich Bay or Crag X (Taddington) - Bolted toss. Is Crag X at Taddington a cave yet ? It can't take much longer given the rate at which rock was being shed last time I was there.

Eiger Nordwand - Alpine toss. Every photo, article and piece of film I've ever seen has portrayed this as the biggest death-choss heap around. Even its history is a sad tale of death, nationalism, death, storms, death, stonefall and death.
Is the climbing any good - no.
Would you enjoy being there - no.
Does anyone actually enjoy being pelted with stones and frozen to death - I'm sure there are specialist magazines for that sort of thing.

Fiend · March 31, 2006, 10:12:09 am

Taddington? Classic?!!?

Palomides · March 31, 2006, 10:28:33 am

Sorry. Carried away on a tide of bile and venom.

fatboySlimfast · March 31, 2006, 11:10:09 am

i cna honestly say that taddington is up there in the 5 worst sport climbing venues I have ever been to! Its loose, chipped and is often seeping.......rather like that orange wall gibbo bolted up under the brdge on the approach to the embankment(which is also loose and chipped but strangly enjoyable!) Its not just a Brit thing, climbed on some crags above Grenoble which were appaling, made horseshoe look world class

dave · March 31, 2006, 08:37:40 pm

taddington really is dogshit. went the last summer on evening. was sa bit gutted that the guides fail to mention its overgrown and toss and there are no lines. even worse si the fact that upon getting within 10foot of the crag i had soem kinda massive hayfever/alergic reaction to something there and couls hardly speak or breathe and had to leave the crag without suffering the indignity of getting the rope and shoes out. we retreated to tom's roof for some quality.

Fiend · March 31, 2006, 08:49:26 pm

Quote from: "dave"

we retreated to tom's roof for some quality.

Says it all really...

Struggling to think of some names of crap classic chuffs here, I think I have a habit of avoiding them...

cofe · March 31, 2006, 09:34:40 pm

cenotaph corner. you have to have done it but its not pleasant.

Sloper · April 01, 2006, 10:28:45 am

Chequers buttress, spoilt by the first 20'.
Downhill racer, chipped and disinteresting,
Impossible slab, boring eliminate
Direct Route a good vdiff spoilt by the start of the last pitch.
Suicidie wall at Idwall just one word, shyte,
Amercian Beauty, it's only merit was that it saved jugging up the abseil.

Fiend · April 01, 2006, 11:59:46 pm

Quote from: "Sloper"

Suicidie wall at Idwall just one word, shyte,

Too much port and foie gras addling your brain there sloper? Okay it has a ledge in it but even so that's undeniably a quality climb, the bold and exposed yarding up the top wall could define "delightful".

Other choices, fair enough, though...

Johnny Brown · April 02, 2006, 12:01:04 pm

Downhill Racer may be chipped but disinteresting? Hardly. It's fantastic. Disinteresting? I don't understand. Were you toproping it?

cofe · April 02, 2006, 12:27:57 pm

Quote from: "Sloper"

Suicidie wall at Idwall just one word, shyte,

hardly. and that goes for both of em.

dave · April 02, 2006, 04:03:21 pm

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

Downhill Racer may be chipped but disinteresting? Hardly. It's fantastic. Disinteresting? I don't understand. Were you toproping it?

ditto. also it better if you talk, helps keep the wolf from the door.

Johnny Brown · April 02, 2006, 04:52:18 pm

:D especially if it improves access to diiiiiixonnns

8A · April 04, 2006, 07:21:18 pm

Cutting Edge on Portland ... 3 stars my German arse!