[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi All,
       got a beacon fingerboard. Had it for a few months and am progressing up a slightly customised version of 8a.nu's fingerboard routine (currently working the 15Minute Intermediate).

This routine appears to be tailored for power endurance (pump tolerance) which is cool in itself. However does anyone have any pointers for strength workouts.

Got  a font weekend coming up in just over a month and would like to get a power cycle in prior to this.

Do a lot of chuffing but wanting to focus more on bouldering and power. Anyone got any cool fingerboard routines?

Cheers

Tim

[erm, sam]

Hi

The normal answer to this is "go and check out the metolius website, they have some good routines", or something. I think those are more aimed at endurance as well though.
I would use the finger board to do deadhands on different sized holds a few reps of shortish max load hangs eg 5 secs. Mind you don't damage owt though. I am old and the thought of chucking in a quick fingerboard routine just before going to font makes me think much more of getting injured-just when you really don't want to be- rather than getting stronger.....
My fingerboard is home made and doesn't get much use at the moment, so, erm, well thats it really.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi Sam,
         as i said mate was looking for some which focused on power, or advice as to if the 8a.nu one was best suited to fingerstrength rather than endurance.  Aye not intending to just "chuck" a session in was thinking of 2 sessions a week for the next 4 weeks with progressive build up after warming up etc etc.  I feel i have familiarised my fingers with fingerboard useage (must have had about 15 workouts) and my fingers feel un tweaky and comfortable the days after a fingerboard workout.  As you say the metolius website doesnt really appear to show strength specific routines.

cheers

Tim

p.s. it appears that the moon website is going to post some fingerboard workouts in the coming days....according to a recent emailshot from moonclimbing..Cool

[tobym]

Gresham briefly touches on some more strength-orientated routines on his DVD, such as lock-offs etc

[Fras]

I would use the finger board to do deadhands on different sized holds a few reps of shortish max load hangs eg 5 secs.

I'd second that. Was lucky enough to have a lesson from Dave MacLeod a week ago, and was asking him about training finger strength.

His recommendation was to do dead hangs in the four main hold positions: 4 finger open-handed, 3 finger open handed, 4 finger half-crimp, 4 finger full-crimp. Hangs should be for between 5-8 seconds. Any less is just not enough, and longer will not be 'over-loading' sufficiently, which is what it's all about.

We were using the narrowest rung on the campus to hang from, and at home, I've been using the second narrowest edge on my Metolius f/board. He recommended doing 4 sets of 4 reps, with a minute rest between reps. these. If you start finding it too easy, go asymmetric, but make sure to 'balance' each side. ie if you're doing RH 4 finger open hand, with LH 2 finger 'reducer', do vice versa to develop symmetrically. If that's not enough, do pull-ups instead of simple dead hangs. (with elbows slightly bent, to help avoid injury. Err..for the dead-hangs I mean, not the pull-ups :wink: )

All this of course after you're well warmed up. I've been doing it all this week at home, when not in the wall and can already see an improvement. This is partially due to simply making more effort not to give up when I think I'm unable to continue, which is absolutely essential. You've got to be trying 100%, and not merely pretending that you can't hang on any longer.

Moral of the story:  If it doesn't pain you....you're just not trying hard enough.

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

Hi Fras,
        thats interesting. A couple of other questions you m,ight be able to answer relating to McLeod.

I got the impression that he did a bit of fingerboard hanging on the same days as climbing days, i.e. to finish the day off. Is this the case? As was thinking myself am getting a lot fo goot result from fingerboard training but dont want to substitute this for a wall session as always enjoy these.

Also does he use weights for his fingerboard sessions?

Cheers
Tim

[bristol_mark]

Hi All,
       got a beacon fingerboard. Had it for a few months and am progressing up a slightly customised version of 8a.nu's fingerboard routine (currently working the 15Minute Intermediate).

Can you/somebody post a link to the fingerboard routines on the 8a site?  I looked and can't see any  

[Tim Broughtonshaw]

articles sesion of 8a.nu entitles hangboarding.

http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml

[sasscotty]

articles sesion of 8a.nu entitles hangboarding.

http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml

this site is really good iv been searching for one of the routines on here for a while good fing dude!!

[bristol_mark]

articles sesion of 8a.nu entitles hangboarding.

http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml

cheers!