[Johnboycfc]

How the hell do you do the finishing moves after you latch the diagonal pocket?

        Cheers

[KH]

Once you get the pocket (I think with LH), plant your feet and pop for the top, which is a jug.

[Jim]

fly like Kes  :D

[Scouse D]

alternative beta is outside edge right foot and up with RH to small pocket (as opposed to LH up to diagonal pocket). Once you have this small pocket set yourself and go again to top(basically Leo's dyno with pocket as intermediate). I personally find this method easier as I can't get much of the LH diagonal pocket and the starting LH crimp feels really good to me so I do all the moves off that.

[Dirty Passion Monkey]

tried it a few times one trip and couldnt touch it, went back a while later and did the move from the LH diagonal hold to the top static.  Once u get the knack i reckon it is easy for V5, but i guess thats often the case for a lot of problems.

[Pantontino]

It all depends how fat your digits are. If you can screw your tips into the top slot (l hand), then edge up to the 2 finger diagonal mini pocket (r hand). This is rubbish, but it allows you to bring your left foot up to the foot rail (it also gets your r hand close to the top). Then pop for the top - the key to this move is to push from your legs rather than trying to pull.

The fat-finger crew will have to adopt Scouse's beta.

I must admit I've never met anybody who thought it was a pushover  at the grade (apart from one midget yank with skinny tips - he said V2!!!), even locals who have it wired. So, Dirty Passion Monkey, you either got very skinny fingers, or you don't realise your own strength, or the first time you tried it the conditions must've been poor.

[Dirty Passion Monkey]

It was roasting hot when i did it, height of summer.  Do have thin elongated fingers tho, and a bit of reach on my side.  It was just the fact that i dispatched it quicker than other V5s that trip but i suppose that dont neccessarily mean its soft, just that it suited me maybe.  Could just be my memory of it is warped with the joy of success.

[Johnboycfc]

cheers dudes - was hoping to finish it this weekend but weather wise wont stand a chance now.

[Pantontino]

Not strictly true - according to Metcheck there will be a window of opportunity mid-day Saturday. Precipitation stopping somewhere between 6 and 9 in the morning, 30 mph winds running through the morning (nice blow dryer effect), then gradually easing off to give pleasant climbing conditions by 12.00.

There might be some drainage streaks left, but there's a strong chance that The Edge Problem will dry out.

I reckon it's worth a punt, in fact I might go for a look myself.

[Pantontino]

Oops, posted twice.

[Pantontino]

It was bone dry this morning; perfect climbing conditions. The weather crapped out around 1.30, forcing a decamp to Jerry's Roof. I managed to get these photos of Ding Dong doing it again just as the rain was coming in.

My mate Miles did it for the first time. Interestingly he has proper fat sausage fingers, and he was struggling at first, but when he copied the way I did it, he topped out first go.

[ding dong]

if you're readin' this you might also enjoy some eliminates on the problem to the right. i have marked them on the pic, hopefully you can see holds labeled A B C and D.

start A A,

Big deadpoint to D match and top is a satisfiying move.
Right hand up to C, sort feet and straight for the top is also cool.
maybe a V5 an a stiff V6, if eliminates can be graded?

fun to be had, just thought i'd share that!

the eliminate is dead! long live the eliminate..

[Scouse D]

I concur.
AA, D, Top is a quality problem